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Marine Aquaria. Set-up and maintaining a Salt Water Fish Tank. Aquaria. People have been trying to keep fishes as pets for centuries Most people keep fresh water fishes. They say “they are easier to take care of.”
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Marine Aquaria Set-up and maintaining a Salt Water Fish Tank
Aquaria • People have been trying to keep fishes as pets for centuries • Most people keep fresh water fishes. They say “they are easier to take care of.” • An aquarium is not “a little piece of the sea transplanted” or “a miniature ocean”
Oceans are very stable in terms of temperature, pH, chemical ions etc. • Most marine organisms are very sensitive to change
Aquaria Types • All glass only • Place on flat, sturdy surface • Not near radiator or other heat source • Once filled (even ¼ full), DO NOT MOVE!
Nitrogen • Nitrogen • Starts out as ammonia • Major waste of most aquatic animals • Nitrifiers – bacteria – convert ammonia to nitrite then to “non-toxic” nitrate • The bacteria are found on aquarium walls and on the gravel surface • Undergravel filters make use of these bacteria • Nitrate – 20 ppm is ideal, but up to 200 ppm is OK
pH • pH • Ocean pH ranges from 8.4 – 7.5 • typically 8.2 – 8.4 • Aquariums tend to lower pH • pH of 8.1 – 8.3 is OK for an aquarium
pH • can be changed by several factors • respiration of animals in the tank • effect of accumulated nitrate ions • oxidation of wastes • can be buffered by addition of calcium carbonate • Calcareous gravel – dolomite, oyster shells
Phosphates • Decomposing metabolic wastes • Uneaten food • Dead plants and animals • Toxic
Organic Material • Wastes • Uneaten food • Aquariums take on a yellow color of the water
Feeding: • do not overfeed • better to underfeed than overfeed • excess food – decreases oxygen, clouds tank • brine shrimp are a good idea (Turn off filter for a couple hours when feeding fish with brine shrimp)
Don’t be in a big rush to add animals to the tank. It must be set up and ready. • Add only a few animals at first then wait. • Don’t overcrowd the tank.
Filters • 3 Types: • Mechanical • Takes particles out of the water – most common – power filter with “floss” • Biological • Undergravel Filter • “Bio-Wheels” • Chemical • Protein Scrubber • Charcoal
Substrate: • Gravel • Oyster shells, dolomite (helps buffer pH) • Wash the gravel prior to putting it in the tank
Cleaning filter • none required with undergravel • Change others when filter floss becomes dark • Cleaning the sides of the aquarium
Run-In • It is necessary to establish a “biological filter” in the form of nitrifying bacteria • they settle on the surface of the filtrant and begin to multiply • to get the nitrifiers, you add one or two “hardy” marine animals and then wait 12 – 15 days • Now you can stock the aquarium • NOTE: Just setting up an aquarium and letting it run for 12-15 days will not do it. You need to add animals first.
Decorations • Looks good & provides place for animals to hide in • Coral, shells, rocks, etc. • Wash first • NO METAL
Water: • Two Choices: • Filtered sea water or artificial sea salts and fresh water • Why use one instead of the other? • Fill to about one inch from top • Mark with magic marker or wax pencil level of water – Why?
Heater? • If tropical fish are to be kept, use a heater • Most cold water marine animals do fine without a heater or cooling
Organism very difficult to keep include: • Algae • Plants • Sponges • Squid • snapper bluefish • sea robin • Herring • Menhaden • Silversides • Clams, mussels, oysters are not a good idea either
Aquarium scrubber, magnets, scrapper • Most marine animals can adapt to gradual changes in water, but not rapid changes • Discuss how aquaria are made – glass, fiberglass shell with wood, lookdown, etc…
Ranges • Salinity ideal is 1.021 – 1.023 specific gravity (29-32 psu) • DO – 5 ppm minimum • Temp – 10º - 18ºC (50º-65ºF) • Nitrate – 20 ppm is ideal, but up to 200 ppm is OK • pH should be 8.1 – 8.3