Production Performance Lesson 3 – Makeup Application and Costume Considerations

1. Production Performance Lesson 3 – Makeup Application and Costume Considerations Broadcast/Video Production II

2. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Objectives • Explain why the use of makeup is necessary on television • Differentiate between character makeup and straight makeup • List the materials and products used for each layer of makeup application • Cite common considerations when selecting the costumes for a production

3. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Important Terms • Base • Blending • Character makeup • Crème Makeup • Foundation • Highlight

4. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Important Terms • Pancake Makeup • Prosthetics • Shadow • Spirit Gum • Straight Makeup

5. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Introduction • Makeup is the collection of various cosmetics and materials that are applied to the skin. These cosmetics are necessary for all studio productions on both male and female talent. Even news anchors, although not considered actors, wear makeup when on camera. This lesson introduces different kinds of makeup products, the uses of each, and some application tips.

6. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Why is Makeup Necessary on Television? • Performers placed under bright 32K white light look gray, pasty, flat, and unattractive without makeup • When using digital video, images are so sharp that even the slightest imperfection on the skin is greatly magnified on television. • Skin blemishes and dark circles under the eyes, acne, rashes, bruises, five o’clock shadows, and wrinkles that are insignificant in real life, are magnified on television

7. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Why is Makeup Necessary on Television? • Many performers resist wearing makeup, but they need to understand it is a necessity • Being evenly lit means that practically all shadows are removed from the talent’s appearance • A face without shadows does not appear to have any depth; it looks flat • A face without depth, on a television screen, appears blemished and flat, like it belongs in a horror film, not a professional television production

8. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Why is Makeup Necessary on Television? • Most people performing on television want to be as attractive as possible • Sometimes the best way to convince a performer to wear makeup is to record some tape to let them see how they look without it • The resistance usually melts after seeing themselves on television without makeup

9. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Stage Makeup • Worn for three reasons: • To make the actor look attractive under very bright stage lights • To help the actor portray a character by creating a “look” that is more appropriate for that character • To add three-dimensionality to the actor’s face by replacing natural shadows that are removed by the bright lights

10. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Stage Makeup • Usually applied rather heavily so people in the audience can see the exaggerated facial expressions, regardless of their location in the theater • If the actor were to move into the audience, however, the makeup would look garish and overdone

11. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Television Makeup • Used for the same three reasons as theatrical stage makeup, but is more subtle • Television makeup is not applied as heavily • The talent should not appear to be wearing makeup at all • The goal is to create a natural appearance from a distance of 8 to 12 feet, which is the average distance between a television set and viewers at home

12. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Makeup Styles • Two styles of makeup: • Painted • Natural • Both styles are acceptable, depending on the type of program and the director’s goals for the program

13. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Makeup Styles • Painted Style • The audience can clearly see that the performer is wearing makeup • For example, an actress playing a woman who lived in the 1960s would be made-up with dark eyeliner, long dark eyelashes, and layers of blue shadow because this was the trend in fashion makeup in that era and is appropriate for a realistic portrayal of the character

14. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Makeup Styles • Natural Style • Enhances a person’s facial features, but does not draw attention to the makeup applied • Female performers often do their own makeup in a completely natural style and add cosmetics based on their character’s wardrobe, personality, or situation

15. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Makeup Styles • Natural Style • It may seem odd to spend time applying natural makeup if the purpose is to appear as though no makeup was used at all • But consider the alternative: if a natural style of makeup is not applied, the television image presents an unhealthy, unattractive, and unnatural picture

16. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Application Techniques • Character makeup: makeup application technique used to make a performer look like someone or something other than the performer’s own persona • For example, the performer can be made to appear older or younger, as a different race, or an alien from another world • Categories include special effects makeup and injuries, including cuts, bruises, scars, and warts

17. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Application Techniques • Prosthetic: a cosmetic appliance, usually made of foam or putty, which may be glued to the skin with special adhesives • Creates or exaggerates physical features on performers, for example, noses, wounds, swelling, and warts • Added to a performer’s appearance based on the character they portray or the action in the scene

18. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Application Techniques • Spirit Gum: a type of adhesive commonly used to apply prosthetic items • Spirit gum is as thin as water and is applied with a brush

19. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Application Techniques • To attach a prosthetic using spirit gum: • Brush the spirit gum onto the skin in the area where the appliance is to be attached. Let the adhesive set for a few moments. • When the spirit gum is no longer shiny, gently tap it with your fingertip. If it is tacky and strings of adhesive attach to your finger, the gum is ready for adhesion. • Clean any adhesive off your fingers. • Attach the prosthetic item with gentle, even pressure

20. Makeup Application and Costume Application • SAFETY NOTE • Do not use spirit gum around the eyes. Irritation, rash, or inflammation can occur when the chemicals in the adhesive come into contact with the sensitive skin around the eyes.

21. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Application Techniques • To remove a prosthetic, as well as any adhesive on your hands, use spirit gum remover • The remover chemically dissolves the gum on contact • To apply the spirit gum remover: • Dip a cotton ball or makeup brush into the remover • Gently work it into the edges of the prosthetic appliance • This dissolves the gum and allows the appliance to be detached from the skin easily

22. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Application Techniques • Straight Makeup: makeup application technique used to correct or hide blemishes, make the complexion more even, and generally help people look attractive and like themselves under bright television lights

23. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Makeup Products • Theatrical • Less expensive than over-the counter makeup • Over-the counter • Packaged in smaller quantities, so must be purchased more frequently than theatrical makeup • The amount of powder and fragrances included irritates and dries the skin • More convenient because it can be purchased at the corner store

24. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Makeup Products • Makeup is available in two forms: • Crème makeup • Pancake makeup

25. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Crème Makeup: an oil-based product that easily blends with other colors. • Colors can be mixed together to create a more natural progression from one shade to another • Much better than the greasy products of yesteryear • There is a stigma that oil-based makeup creates problems with already oily skin • However, natural human oil and makeup oil do not clog the pores of the skin if properly removed

26. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Pancake Makeup: a powder makeup foundation that is water-soluble. • It is pressed into a compact container • Once the most common type of makeup used by most television and film performers, but is no longer the case • Can clog the pores of the skin and cause breakouts • Does not blend well with other colors • Once the color is applied, it remains at the applied intensity until removal

27. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Pancake Makeup • Therefore, a very light touch is required to apply this makeup • Any additional layers of color must also be powder-based • When pancake and crème products are mixed, a sticky goop results

28. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Makeup Application • Several layers of makeup are required to create a realistic appearance on camera • This is true for both character and straight makeup applications • Makeup should be applied under lighting conditions that closely reproduce the lighting on the studio set or shoot location

29. Makeup Application and Costume Application • First Makeup Layer • Base: the first layer of makeup applied – usually covers the entire face, neck, ears, back of the hands, and bald spot, if present. Also called foundation.

30. Makeup Application and Costume Application • First Makeup Layer • The first layer of makeup applied usually covers the entire face, neck, ears, back of the hands, and bald spot, if present. • This layer is called base or foundation • Base is best applied with a slightly moistened cosmetic sponge • These dense foam sponges are available at retail outlets in the cosmetics section and come in a wedge shape

31. Makeup Application and Costume Application • First Makeup Layer • Cosmetic sponges are effective for applying base on everyone except males who are old enough to shave • The beard stubble on a man’s face shreds the sponges and leaves bits of foam all over their face • Use a different kind of sponge on adult men, such as a natural sea sponge or one made of polyester

32. Makeup Application and Costume Application • First Makeup Layer • If base is applied properly, the performers should not feel the makeup on their faces at all • If they feel this layer of makeup, it was applied too heavily

33. Makeup Application and Costume Application • PRODUCTION NOTE • To simplify the process, use the same kind of sponge to apply makeup on everyone. This way, there is no need to keep a supply of both cosmetic and sea sponge or polyester sponges on hand for each production. However, performers should each have their own set of sponges. Polyester and sea sponges can be cleaned after each use with soap and hot water.

34. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Second Makeup Layer • Blending: incorporating applied makeup into the areas surrounding it by brushing the makeup with the fingers or a brush.

35. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Second Makeup Layer • Shadow: makeup that is three or four shades darker than the base makeup applied.

36. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Second Makeup Layer • Highlight and shadow are applied after the base makeup • The bright studio lights remove all the shadows on the face and makeup replaces these shadows • Highlight and shadow should be blended • There should be no definitive line or separation between areas with only base makeup and areas with additional colors or layers applied

37. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Second Makeup Layer • Anywhere shadow is placed makes that area appear to sink into the plane of the face • Shadow is commonly places: • Above the eyes, but below the brow • Below or to the side of the nose • Below the chin • In the temple area for an aged appearance • On the cheek, below the cheekbone

38. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Second Makeup Layer • Cheek shadow, also called rouge, should not be placed directly on the cheekbones because this makes the cheekbones appear crushed or damaged

39. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Second Makeup Layer • Highlight: makeup that is three or four shades lighter than the are to which it is applied. • Usually applied to; • The bridge of the nose • The bone just above the eye, below the eyebrow • Above the eyebrow, on the bony ridge across the forehead • The chin and jaw line of men to give the appearance of strength • The cheekbones

40. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Second Makeup Layer • Always keep in mind that the makeup applied to talent should help the performer portray exactly the type of character necessary for the betterment of the program

41. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Third Makeup Layer • After the crèmes of various shades have been applied, the entire face must be powdered • The object of powdering crème makeup is to dull its shine and to set the makeup • Setting makeup with translucent powder keeps it from easily smearing • Never use baby or talcum powder; you must use translucent powder

42. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Third Makeup Layer • To apply the translucent makeup powder: • Place a powder puff on the powder and work some powder into the puff with your fingers • Gently pat the powder on the face; do not rub the powder onto the face • Use a makeup powder brush to gently brush off any excess

43. Makeup Application and Costume Application • PRODUCTION NOTE • A bald spot, or a completely bald head, almost always needs to be powdered to avoid reflecting large light hits.

44. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Fourth Makeup Layer • Lipstick should be applied after powdering • Glossy lipstick should not be used because it causes distracting light hits • Talent wearing glossy lipstick appears to have sequins glued to their lips

45. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Fourth Makeup Layer • Eyeliner rarely is used on men or children • Women should wear eyeliner only if it should be obvious that they are wearing makeup • It does not look natural and television amplifies the intensity of eyeliner

46. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Fourth Makeup Layer • Mascara thickens and lengthens eyelashes • Men should never wear mascara unless they are extremely blonde and their eyelashes are not visible without it

47. Makeup Application and Costume Application • PRODUCTION NOTE • A single tube of mascara should never be used on multiple people. Mascara should never be shared with another person. It is a fertile breeding ground for bacteria. Eye diseases such as conjunctivitis, or “pinkeye,” are highly contagious and could affect the entire cast if mascara is shared. Even if only one person uses mascara, the product should be discarded and replaced once a month.

48. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Makeup Removal • Cold cream used to be the most common product to remove makeup and is still used • The disadvantage of using cold cream is that it is messy and must be slathered on the face and wiped off with many tissues • The face must then be washed with hot soap and water or else the skin will breakout the next day

49. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Makeup Removal • Makeup Remover is another alternative • Expensive • Also messy

50. Makeup Application and Costume Application • Makeup Removal • Baby wipes are used today by most makeup artists and performers • They are readily available and cost effective • Some brands are fragrance-free and may contain moisturizers like aloe • Two or three wipes remove all traces of makeup without the mess of the other products