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Cosmetology Mayer page 558

Cosmetology Mayer page 558. “the study of beautifying and improving the complexion, skin, hair, and nails”. Purposes. Klicker page 167 1) replace coloring 2) compensate for FH lighting 3) well-groomed appearance 4) create a comforting memory picture 5) accent or de-emphasize features

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Cosmetology Mayer page 558

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  1. CosmetologyMayer page 558 “the study of beautifying and improving the complexion, skin, hair, and nails”

  2. Purposes • Klicker page 167 • 1) replace coloring • 2) compensate for FH lighting • 3) well-groomed appearance • 4) create a comforting memory picture • 5) accent or de-emphasize features • 6) harmonize complexion coloring with clothing, casket interior etc. • 7) conceal discolorations • 8) match wax with complexion color

  3. Naturalism in Cosmetology Ornamental Cosmetology Klicker page 169

  4. Pigments of the Skin • Klicker page 170; Mayer page 565 • 1) melanin: “brown to black-brown pigment in the epidermis and hair • 2) carotene: “yellow pigment of the skin” • 3) hemoglobin: “oxygenated blood of the arteries which influences the color of the skin by way of its presence in the superficial capillaries”

  5. Complexion • Klicker page 170; Mayer page 565 • Types/Classifications: light, medium, dark and darker • Variations: red, yellow, brown • Deviations: bronze, purple, yellow, green, gray, and yellow-brown

  6. Matching Complexions Using Basic Pigments • Klicker page 169 • 1) yellow • 2) red • 3) brown • 4) white

  7. Types of External Color • Klicker page 168; Mayer page 569-570 • 1) Transparent • 2) Translucent • 3) Opaque

  8. Methods of Applying Color • Klicker page 168 • 1) internal • 2) external/surface application • Spray cosmetic application: Klicker p. 194-196

  9. Reduction of Density Mayer page 568 Cosmetic Application at Hair Regions

  10. Corrective ShapingKlicker page 187 Highlighting or Shadowing Cosmetics

  11. Highlighting or Shadowing • “application of a color which is lighter or brighter than the complexion would highlight the complexion; application of a color darker than the complexion color would shadow the complexion”

  12. Shadowing • Klicker page 183; Mayer pages 574-575 • Eye Shadow • Orbital Cavity • Forehead • Nasolabial Folds • Cheekbone • Mouth • Chin • Dimples

  13. Highlighting • Forehead • Nose • Chin

  14. Warm Color Areas • Klicker page 175; Mayer page 572, 582-52 • Face: cheeks, chin, ears, lips (mucous membranes), lower parts of the nose and forehead • Hands: knuckles, fingernails, cuticles

  15. Corrective Shaping of the Lips • Klicker page 188 • Thickening the Lips • Widening the Lips • Thinning the Lips • Narrowing the Lips

  16. Coloring the Lips • Natural Effect: Youthful Adult Old-age Crimson Lip Color • Ornamental Effect

  17. Rouges and RougingKlicker page 167; Mayer page 572 Proper rouge application and color selection constitute two of the most important phases of mortuary cosmetology

  18. Purpose • Replace the blood-color on nude skin. • Create a florid or ruddy complexion. • Combat absorptive effect of illumination. • Re-instate warm color areas. • Correctively shape the cheeks and lips.

  19. Classifications • Klicker page 168 • Liquid: transparent, opaque • Cream • Powder • Lip

  20. Natural Rouging • Klicker page 168; Mayer page 573 • From youth to middle-age, and then to old-age, the color drops lower and lower on the cheeks. • Infants • Children • Adolescents • Young Adults • Middle Age Adults • Aged Adults

  21. Ornamental Rouging • Violates the “rules” of natural coloring. • Rouge is blended laterally from the zygomatic bone to the side of the face. • Do not apply rouge on the front plane of the face, next to the nose, or the nasolabial fold.

  22. Lip Rouging Techniques Klicker page 169 • 1) lining and filling • 2) vertical brush application • 3) horizontal brush application

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