Wave –Coast Interactions Wave patterns due to coastal interference

1. Wave –Coast InteractionsWave patterns due to coastal interference

2. Diffracted Waves • Waves spread out, • decreasing in height • and energy

3. Radiating Waves Waves move outward in concentric rings from the generating source

4. Reflected Waves Waves that bounce off an object

5. Refracted Waves Waves bend around an obstacle, changing the direction of the wave

6. Converging Waves Waves that come together at a certain point, increasing the wave height and strength

7. Standing Wave

8. Parallel Waves

9. Rip Currents Currents that flow away from the shore, toward the sea. Usually occurs when longshore currents flow toward each other, meet, and then flow out to sea. Strong at the point where the currents meet, but weakens as it flows out to sea

10. Eddy A circular motion of water on the surface

11. LongshoreCurents • Currents that flow parallel to the beach along the shoreline

12. Sand Transport • Movement of sand by waves and currents • Results in erosion (loss) and accretion (build-up) of beach • Movement results in sorting by size and density, resulting in the following beach formations

13. Sand Dunes Mounds of loose, windblown sand

14. Sandbar • Offshore, small sediment • accretion, usually submerged

15. Longshore Transport and the effect of groins

17. Jetties • Protect entrances to waterways

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