Wolfram Boucsein & Florian Schaefer

1. Psychophysiological Assessment of Emotion-Eliciting Properties of Cosmetic Products University of Wuppertal Physiological Psychology Wolfram Boucsein & Florian Schaefer

2. Psychophysiology in Ergonomics (PIE) • The purpose of the PIE organization is to promote and advance the understanding of psychophysiological methods and their application to ergonomics… • …through the interchange of knowledge and methodology in the behavioral, biological and physical sciences, and engineering disciplines. • “Kamsung engineering” in Korea and “kanseiengineering” in Japan… • …relates to sensitivity and feeling of a person being in contact with an industrial product and can be measured by means of psychophysiological methods in the process of designing a product.

3. Testing of cosmetics on the forearm areas of application

4. Objecitve Emotional Assessment Objective Emotional Assessment

5. Gehirn 1 Activity of facial muscles Electromyogram (EMG) Cortex Conscious representation Thalamus Hypothalamus • Electrodermal activity (EDA) • Electrocardiogram (ECG) • Pulse volume amplitude (PVA) Skin surface stimulation

6. Electrodermal activity (EDA) µS Skin Conductance Response SCR 1 amplitude SCR 2 amplitude seconds Parameters: • number of NS.SCRs • (Non-Specific Skin Conductance Responses) • Sum amplitude and mean amplitude

7. Electrocardiogram (ECG) mV seconds • Parameters: • Distance between two heartbeats (RR) • Heart rate = number of heartbeats per minute • Variance, Mean Quadratic Successive Differences Orienting response

8. Pulse volume amplitude (PVA) Amplitude • Parameter: • PVA – Modulation (mean/standard deviation) seconds

9. Electromyogram (EMG) mV integrated signal (rectified and smoothed) Sekunden • Parameter: • Mean activity in mV * s (integrated EMG)

10. Gehirn 1 Activity of facial muscles Electromyogram (EMG) Cortex Conscious representation Thalamus Hypothalamus • Electrodermal activity (EDA) • Electrocardiogram (ECG) • Pulse volume amplitude (PVA) Stimuli on skin surface

11. Schöne Anger Joy Ekman faces Surprise Disgust

12. Facial EMG (Electromyogram) Corrugator supercilii Levator labii Zygomaticus major

13. Zygomaticus major smiling

14. Levator labii wrinkling the nose

15. Corrugator supercilii frowning

16. Objective Emotional Assessment (OEA) reveals emotional and arousing properties of cosmetic products • elicited by: • consistency of foams • smoothness of hair treated with a specific shampoo • typical fragrances • Technique of OEA: • easy-to-apply • non-invasive • measures of autonomic and somatic nervous system parameters • Superior to classical techniques: • sensory assessment • home-use tests

17. Psychophysiological effects of fragrances • Hypotheses: • Lavender is relaxing and soothing • Jasmine is activating and animating • Design: • two by two factorial (fragrance and sequence) • (Lavender and jasmine; 1st and 2nd trial). • within-subjects (each subject is investigated under each of the • four possible conditions, randomized).

18. Psychophysiological effects of fragrances Subjects: Twenty-four female employees who were selected in pre-tests according to their good ability to smell fragrances. • Physiological parameters: • Electrodermal activity (EDA) • Heart activity (ECG) • Finger pulse volume amplitude (PVA) • Activity of three facial muscles (EMG) • (Zygomaticus major, Levator labii, Corrugator supercilii)

19. Gehirn 2 Activity of facial muscles Electromyogram (EMG) Conscious representation Cortex Thalamus Limbic system Hypothalamus • Electrodermal activity (EDA) • Electrocardiogram (ECG) • Pulse volume amplitude (PVA) olfactory stimuli

21. exhaust air bulk-head o o one-way plastic tube Psychophysiological effects of fragrances Apparatus with constant airflow Dosimat manually released, computer registered glass tube (Ø 25 mm, length 400 mm) with two holes for the nostrils constant air inlet Dosimat Dosimat Dosimat Clamps for the glass tube chin rest

22. Nase Luftstrom

23. Dosimaten und einstechen

24. EDA ECG Zygomaticus Levator Corrugator Respiration PVA

25. Psychophysiological effects of fragrances Lavender: Inconspicuous, non-interesting (PVA modulation) Steady over both trials Jasmine: Conspicuous, eliciting more interest (PVA modulation) Decrease in trial 2 sequence significant, fragrance significant

26. Psychophysiological effects of fragrances Lavender: In the 1st trial more negatively toned (NS. SCR freq. higher) In the 2nd trial more relaxing (mean IBI longer → lower HR) and negative valence diminishing Jasmine: In the 1st trial more positively toned (NS. SCR freq. lower) In the 2nd trial more exiting (mean IBI shorter → higher HR) and positive valence remaining

27. Psychophysiological effects of fragrances Lavender: Total face less in move (relaxed) (mean EMG of all three muscles) Jasmine: Total face more in move (activated) (mean EMG of all three muscles)

28. Psychophysiological effects of fragrances Lavender: Subliminal smile weaker* Becoming stronger in trial 2 (*: Interaction significant) Jasmine: Subliminal smile stronger* Becoming weaker in trial 2 (*: Interaction significant)

29. Psychophysiological effects of fragrances Lavender: Less critically evaluated (Corrugator: no. of responses) Increase in trial 2 (Trial and interaction significant) Jasmine: More critically evaluated (Corrugator: max. amplitude) (Odor significant)

30. Psychophysiological effects of fragrances Lavender: Unobtrusive, uninteresting (PVA modulation) Steady over both trials Jasmine: Striking, interest-eliciting (PVA modulation) Decreasing in trial 2 sequence significant, fragrance significant if baseline is used as covariate

31. Psychophysiological effects of fragrances Lavender: In the 1st trial more negatively toned (NS. SCR freq. higher) In the 2nd trial more relaxing (mean IBI longer → lower HR) and negative valence diminishing Jasmine: In the 1st trial more positively toned (NS. SCR freq. lower) In the 2nd trial more exiting (mean IBI shorter → higher HR) and positive valence remaining

32. Psychophysiological effects of fragrances Lavender: Subliminal smile weaker* Becoming stronger in trial 2 (* : Interaction significant) Jasmine: Subliminal smile stronger* Becoming weaker in trial 2 (* : Interaction significant)

33. Psychophysiological effects of fragrances Lavender: Less critically evaluated (Corrugator: no. of responses) Increase in trial 2 (Sequence and interaction significant) Jasmine: More critically evaluated (Corrugator: max. amplitude) (Fragrance significant, sequence sign. if baseline used as covariate)

34. Results from ANOVA • Our hypotheses were at least partially confirmed: • The relaxing and soothing property of lavender showed up in the heart rate (IBI longer). However, the emotionproduced might have had some negative touch (EDA). • The activating and animating property of jasmine was shown in the PVA (eliciting interest) and in the zygomaticus (eliciting a subliminal smile), but only during the first presentation. Afterwards, this effect was gone but a critical evaluation persisted (as shown in the corrugator activity).

35. Psychophysiological effects of fragrances

36. Psychophysiological effects of fragrances Sequence significant, fragrance significant if baseline used as covariate

37. Psychophysiological effects of fragrances Interaction significant

38. Psychophysiological effects of fragrances

39. Psychophysiological Assessment of Emotion-Eliciting Properties of Cosmetic Products

40. Literatur References: Boucsein, W., Schaefer, F., Schwerdtfeger, A., Busch, P., & Eisfeld, W (1999). Objective emotional assessment of foam. SÖFW-Journal, 125, 2-17. Boucsein, W., Schaefer, F., Kefel, M., Busch, P., & Eisfeld, W. (2002). Objective emotional assessment of tactile hair properties and their modulation by different product worlds. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 24, 135-150. Eisfeld, W., Schaefer, F., Boucsein, W., & Stolz, C. (2005). Tracking intersensory properties of cosmetic products via psycho-physiological assessment. International Federation Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC), 8, 25-30. Eisfeld, W., Wachter, R., Stürmer, R., Schaefer, F., & Boucsein, W. (2006).Perceivable wellness effects via a new liposome concept for fabric care. SÖFW-Journal, 132, 84-92.