History of Costume

1. History of Costume Victorian – Edwardian Era 1837 - 1914

2. Victorian Era – Crinoline 1837 - 1860 Men’s Fashion • Prince Albert Coat Another name for the double-breasted frock coat with satin lapels, named after the consort of Queen Victoria who favored the style. • String Tie Basic ribbon, often black, tied in a bow with the ends hanging down. • Gaiters Covers that covered the shoe so they wouldn't get muddy. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Crinoline Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/crinoline.htm

3. Victorian Era – Crinoline 1837 - 1860 Men’s Fashion • Dundrearies Long side burnes, Lamb Chops, worn my Lord Dundreary on Our American Cousin, by Tom Taylor. • Stove-Pipe Hat A tall, cylindrical hat with very little brim; worn by men. • PinceNiz A style of eye glasses that pinched the nose. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Crinoline Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/crinoline.htm

4. Victorian Era – Crinoline Women's Fashion 1837 - 1860 • Return to the look of demure prim gentility • Big hats leave and bonnets return • The Gigot sleeve collapses in for a much narrower sleeve and dropped shoulder line. • Tight, pointed longer boned bodice to emphasize a small waistline • Pantalettes: Leg coverings of lace and ruffles that extended below the knees Thomas, P.W. (2008). Early Victorian Costume and Fashion History 1837-1860. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/early_victorian_fashion.htm

5. Victorian Era – Crinoline Women's Fashion 1837-1860 • Dolman: A three-quarter-length outer wrap made of brocade, silk, or woolen fabric with sleeves cut in one with the body. . • Pagoda Sleeves A sleeve shaped like a funnel, tight above and gradually widening at the bottom, often finishing in several ruffles over a soft lawn under-sleeve. • Sleeves were off the shoulders for evening wear for upper class. Thomas, P.W. (2008). Early Victorian Costume and Fashion History 1837-1860. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/early_victorian_fashion.htm

6. Victorian Era – Crinoline Women's Fashion 1837-1860 • Bell shaped skirts become so large they are more dome shaped. • Held up by 6 layers of petticoats • Supported by stiffer fabrics with “Crin” woven in horsehair to make fabrics stiffer. • Crinoline: any garment that used this type of lining to make it stiff • Crinoline cage: metal steel frame cage that freed women of petticoats Thomas, P.W. (2008). Early Victorian Costume and Fashion History 1837-1860. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/early_victorian_fashion.htm

7. Victorian Era – Crinoline Think Movies: Gangs of New York Gone With the Wind Little Women

8. Victorian 1865-1890 Four factors that begin to influence fashion • The invention of the sewing machine • Fashion becomes couture design led • Synthetic dyes allow for intense colors • Dome skirt started to have a flat front and a dramatic leaning back. Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/mid-late_victorian_fashion.htm

9. Victorian 1865-1890 Men's Fashion • Blazer—A lightweight sport jacket. • Norfolk Jacket—A jacket with box pleats or straps of the same material passing over the belt and extending from shoulder to hem in front and back; usually worn for sport occasions. • Inverness—A full, sleeveless cape which fitted closely around the neck; from Inverness in Scotland. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Bustle Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/bustle.htm

10. Victorian 1865-1890 Men's Fashion • Knickerbockers—Full, knee-length breeches gathered in at the knee • Four-in-hand Tie—A type of necktie originally used by coachmen that is tied in a slip knot. • Straw Boater—A man's hard straw hat coated with shellac from India that became popular for summer outings and sporting events in the 1870s Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Bustle Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/bustle.htm

11. Victorian - Bustle Women’s Fashion • Bustle—Whalebone or steel strips placed in the top back of the petticoat or in a separate panier puff in order to hold out the elaborate draping at the back of the over skirt. • Bloomers—Loose underdrawers usually gathered at the knee. • Basque—A short, skirt-like termination of an upper garment (originally on the male doublet) Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Bustle Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/bustle.htm

12. Victorian - Bustle Women’s Fashion • The Soft Bustle Fashion Silhouette 1867-1875 • Apron style tablier top layer half skirt • contrasting underskirts and gown linings were all revealed as the over top skirt was divided or turned back. Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/mid-late_victorian_fashion.htm

13. Victorian - Bustle Women’s Fashion • From 1870, ball gowns always had a train. • by 1873 the train was seen in day dress. • By 1875 soft polonaise bustle styles were becoming so extreme that the soft fullness began to drop down the back of the garment and form itself into a tiered, draped and frilled train

14. Victorian - Bustle Women’s Fashion • Victorian Silhouette 1878-1901 • Princess Line and the CuirasseBodice • soft polonaise style bustle styles were replaced by Princess sheath garments without a waist seam with bodice and skirt cut in one. • Cuirasse bodice: corset like and dipped even deeper both front and back extending well down the hips creating the look of a body encased in armour. Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/mid-late_victorian_fashion.htm

15. Victorian - Bustle Women’s Fashion • The New Hard Bustle of 1883 • jutting out shelf like style of bustle • larger than ever as a hard shape that gave women a silhouette like the hind legs of a horse • Minimal drapery in comparison to earlier bustles • Slimmer more fitted severely tailored princess bodice, with a much flatter front. Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/mid-late_victorian_fashion.htm

16. Victorian - Bustle Think Movies: Far and Away Tombstone The Phantom of the Opera

17. Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Men’s Fashion • Chesterfield—A fitted dress overcoat with hidden buttons and a velvet collar • Kickers—Full breeches gathered or pleated into knee bands and buckled at the knee Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's. retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/findesiecle.htm

18. Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Men’s Hats • Panama Hat—A hand-woven hat of fine straw from Ecuador and Colombia, South America. • For-and-Aft Cap—A cap having a visor front and back, often worn with an Inverness cape. • Derby—A stiff felt hat with a low, round crown and narrow brim; the bowler has a slightly wider brim and a roll at the sides. • Homberg—A carefully blocked, stiff felt hat with a medium tapering crown creased in the middle and a brim that was rolled up on the sides and finished in grosgrain ribbon Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's. retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/findesiecle.htm

19. Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Women’s Fashion 1890-1910 • Tailor Made—Mass-produced, ready-to-wear clothing that had a tailored fit often wool or serge because of the tailoring quality. • Leg-o’-Mutton—A sleeve that was extremely wide at the top and tapered at the wrist. • Shirtwaist—A woman’s top detached from the skirt. At first the focal point was the shoulders then it moved to the front. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's. retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/findesiecle.htm

20. Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Women’s Fashion 1890-1910 • Gibson Girl—More often associated with the topknot hair style. Also a blouse with a single pleat which extended over each shoulder front and back, hiding the armseye of the shirtwaist. • Image of 'The New Woman' who was competitive, sporty and emancipated as well as beautiful. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's. retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/findesiecle.htm

21. Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Women’s Fashion 1900 -1907 • The S-Bend corset and pouter pigeon effect • The high collar, S bend corset, trained skirt and lavish hat all had an effect on the posture of an Edwardian lady and it gave her a certain swaying grandeur. • Evening wear • exceptionally low sweetheart, square and round décolleté necklines allowed women to wear quantities of fine jewelry. No cleavage was visible as the bust was suppressed into a monobosom. Thomas, P.W. (2008). La Belle Époque Edwardian FashionHistory. Retrievedfrom: http://www.fashion-era.com/la_belle_epoque_1890-1914_fashion.htm

22. Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Women’s Accessories • Gainsborough Hat— velvet, beaver, or straw hat having a low crown and a broad brim, trimmed with feathers. • Feathers • Gloves • Parasols • Bags Thomas, P.W. (2008). La Belle Époque Edwardian FashionHistory. Retrievedfrom: http://www.fashion-era.com/la_belle_epoque_1890-1914_fashion.htm

23. Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Think Movies: Anne of Green Gables Sherlock Holmes