Séverine Gojard , INRA – UR 1303 ALISS

1. Workshop on Consumption Work and Societal Divisions of Labour, Colchester, 7- 8 November 2013 Buying, storing, cooking food: an investigation on the boundariesbetween home and market. Findingsfrom a survey on mealpreparation in Paris and suburbs Séverine Gojard, INRA – UR 1303 ALISS

2. Structure of the intervention • Contextualelements • Data and methods • Results on the associations between home cooking, provisioning, use of processedfood items • Investment in mealpreparation • Use of cannedor frozenfoodstuff • Quality labels and specific shopping places • Cooking styles and householdproperties • Conclusion: the boundariesbetween home and marketdifferaccording to the households’ social characteristics and to the relevant activities

3. Context : • Development of processedfoodconsumption in France during the second half of the XXthcentury. • For fruit and vegetable : decrease of freshproductsconsumption, almostcompensated for by an increase in processed items • Increase of the share of general stores and decrease of smallgroceries for food shopping • General ideathat people no longer cook, no longer know how to cook, especiallyamongyoungor deprivedhouseholds. • But weakempiricalevidence

4. An exploratorysurvey on mealpreparation • To describe the differentactivitiesengaged in mealpreparation • To have a betterunderstanding of the use of processedfood (in substitution or in combinationwithfreshfood items) • To linkthoseelements • with social and materialcharacteristics (income, education, household structure, available time, location, …) (in progress) • withother dimensions related to mealpreparation (cooking skills acquisition, foodwaste…) (still to bedone)

5. The survey • Sample of 1000 households living in Paris and suburbs, not retired, representative of the local population (quotas on census data) • Both restrictions due to the special focus weintended to put on time constraints • Survey with • face-to-face interviews • collection by the households of all foodpurchasesduringtwoweeks • photos taken of fridges, sometimesalso of cupboards and freezers, and of the places in the houseswhere people keeptheirrecipes • Around800 householdscompleted questionnaires and purchasebooklet

6. Rationale • This surveyallows us to analyse the combination of differentactivitieslinked to mealpreparation : • Food choice and purchase • Food storage and conservation • Cooking and mealpreparation • Each relates to a different aspect of foodquality, relying on consumptionwork to differentlevels and pertaining to delegation in distinct marketspheres • Choice mobilisation of skills to evaluate the quality of producst (freshness for instance) or quality labels if delegation to market • Storage  necessaryskills to keepfreshfoodfromdecay, or use of canned, frozen, vaccum-packedfood if delegation to market • Cooking  cooking skills or use of preparedmeals

7. Methods • Multi Component Analysisand hierarchical classification in order to givesyntheticanalysislines • Variables selectedgive information on • Shopping places (for foodpurchases) • Use of frozen, canned or vacuum-packedfood items • Consumption of individual-packedpreparedmeals • Frequentrealisation of home made products • Time devoted to dailymealpreparation (declaration; for dinner on weekdays) • Auto-evaluation of cooking skills • Use of someseasoningproductssuch as freshherbs • Supplementary variables contain information on sociodemographicproperties

8. Less time devoted to cooking Weak cooking skillsdeclared Rare home made preparations No freshherbs DELEGATION OF MEAL PREPARATION AXIS 1 & 2 Frequent use of frozen,preserved or vacuum-packedfood items. Lessfreshproducts No frequent use of frozen, preservedfood items Preference for freshproducts DELEGATION OF FOOD STORAGE More time devoted to cooking Strong cooking skillsdeclared Frequent home made preparations Use of freshherbs

9. Less time devoted to cooking Weak cooking skillsdeclared Rare home made preparations No freshherbs DELEGATION OF MEAL PREPARATION AXIS 1 & 3 Purchase of organicfood Shopping atorganicfood shops Shopping atconventionalplaces Cooking skills DELEGATION OF FOOD QUALIFICATION More time devoted to cooking Strong cooking skillsdeclared Frequent home made preparations Use of freshherbs

10. Three dimensions of delegationfrom home to market Thosethree dimensions are, by construction, independantfromeachother Delegation of mealpreparation to market AXIS 1 Predominance of freshfoods Delegation of foodconditionning and storagecapacities to market AXIS 3 Delegation of food qualification to market via organic labelling AXIS 2 Home cooking Investment in mealpreparation

11. A typology of cooking styles • Based on this MCA, weconstructed a classification in 6 groups • Two groups with high delegation of mealpreparationactivities • Two groups withlowdelegation of mealpreparationactivities • Two groups with high delegation of food qualification • Subdivisions operateregarding the other dimensions of delegation • A closeranalysis of those groups revealsunderlying social elements and helpsfurhteranalyze the delegation

12. Lowdelegation of mealpreparation Both groups are characterized by a higher proportion of households shopping atmarkets, spendingmore than an hourper day for preparing the eveningmeal, wherecooks are more oftenwomen, whithhigh declared cooking skills, and stating the likepreparingdailymealsLoweducationlevel • Delegation of foodstorage • Householdswithchildren • Housewives • Middle-aged • The lowestincomelevels of the sample • No delegation of foodstoragenor qualification • Couples • More than 45 yearsold Probablyhouseholdswith no more childrenat home,Cooking style based on a lot of time and know-how investment Lowereconomic ressources but higher time availability Cooking style based on organisation, know how, and avoidance of foodshortage (15,0 %) (19,7 %) B A

13. High delegation of mealpreparation Both groups are characterized by a higher proportion of households shopping at super and hypermarkets, spendinglessthan 30 mn per day for preparing the eveningmeal, wherecooks are more oftenmen, whithlowdeclared cooking skills, oftenbuyingindividualpreparedmeals, and stating the dislike cooking • Delegation of foodstorage • Singleparent or extendedfamilies • Middle aged • Distant suburbs • Relativelylowincome • Almostno organicproducts • Middle educationlevel • No delegation in foodstoragenor qualification • Living alone • Lessthan 30 yearsold • Middle income • High educationlevel Probably people whoofteneat out Time and financialconstraints (11,7 %) (23,3 %) D C

14. High delegation of food qualification Both groups are characterized by a higher proportion of households shopping at places specialised in organicfoodproducts, spending30 to 45 mn per day for preparing the eveningmeal. High educationlevel, high incomes, more often living in Paris intramuros • No delegation of mealpreparationnorfoodstorage • Men • Living alone or in childless couples • Time constraints • Delegation of foodstorage • Women • Couples or lone parent families • More than 45 yearsold Cooking style based on a lowdegree of investment and know how, compensated for by purchases of qualitylabelledfood. Higherinvestment and more cooking skills, lack of time compensated for by qualityfood and domesticorganization (17,5 %) F (12,7 %) E

15. Less time devoted to cooking Weak cooking skillsdeclared Rare home made preparations No freshherbs DELEGATION OF MEAL PREPARATION AXIS 1 & 2 C D E Frequent use of frozen,preserved or vacuum-packedfood items. Lessfreshproducts No frequent use of frozen, preservedfood items Preference for freshproducts F B DELEGATION OF FOOD STORAGE A More time devoted to cooking Strong cooking skillsdeclared Frequent home made preparations Use of freshherbs

16. DELEGATION OF MEAL PREPARATION Less time devoted to cooking Weak cooking skillsdeclared Rare home made preparations No freshherbs AXIS 1 & 3 C D E Purchase of organicfood Shopping atorganicfood shops Shopping atconventionalplaces Cooking skills F DELEGATION OF FOOD QUALIFICATION B A More time devoted to cooking Strong cooking skillsdeclared Frequent home made preparations Use of freshherbs

17. Conclusion • Delegation of one activitydoes not implydelegation of the other. • Wecandistinguishdifferentlevels of consumptionwork and of delegation to market. • Delegationcanbe due to a lack of skillsat home, but not always • Delegation of qualification • Higher position in social hierarchylinked to organicfoodconsumption • Delegation of storage • Linked to the presence of childrenat home, • Revealsdifferenttemporalities (lowerfrequency of foodpurchase), • Higher position in social hierarchylinked to freshproductspurchase • Delegation of mealpreparation • Stronglyconnected to life cycle effects and time constraints

18. Acknowledgements • Fundings from Region Ile de France, CPER R1-P33 Pole alimentation Parisien • Thanks to Solal team for numerous discussions about the questionnaire • Thanks to DelphineGuérin who took in charge the statistical analysis and to Marie Plessz for precious help at different stages of the research. • Survey conducted by Ipsos Institute