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Fashion 1910’s – 1919’s. Rich & exotic opulence in first half of decade - Orientalism Practicality of garments during WWI – 1914 – 1918 Changes made because of necessity over fashion
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Rich & exotic opulence in first half of decade - Orientalism • Practicality of garments during WWI – 1914 – 1918 • Changes made because of necessity over fashion • Periods of upheaval are often a catalyst for profound social change, which in turn is a catalyst for dramatic change in fashion.
Influences • Women’s suffrage movement • Roots of Prohibition • Great Influenza Epidemic (1918) • Titantic sank in 1912 • Frank Lloyd Wright – Arts & Crafts movement • Silent Films – Charlie Chaplin & Mary Pickford
Designers • Jacques Doucet • Mariano Fortuny • Coco Chanel
Silhouette • Rectangular - Tunic over a long underskirt - Empire waist early – loosened and gradually dropped to natural waist - Tunics gradually became longer and underskirts were made fuller and shorter - 1916 – calf-length dresses over ankle length underskirt
Hobble Skirt • Mimicked the Harem skirts of middle east • 1914 • Widest at hips – narrow at ankle
The Great WarWWI • 1914 – 1918 • Women went to work – factories • Independence increased – levels of activity and desire for practical shoes • Clothing more utilitarian – tailored, mannish appearance • Hemlines inched up – dropped underskirts – above ankles – material shortages • Darker Colors – Mourning – Monochrome look
Hats/Hair Styles • Large hats with wide brims early • Small hats with flat brims – end • Bobbed haircut
Men • Unchanged Styles • Sack Suit • Pants with cuff/with front/back creases • Tuxedo jacket • Ties same
Children • Boys – suits with trousers • Girls – less “adult” - shorter skirts - Material Rationing