Lesson

1. Lesson Using Construction Fasteners and Hardware

2. Learning Objectives • Discuss the selection and use of nails. • Discuss the selection and use of screws. • Discuss the selection and use of bolts. • Discuss the selection and use of glue. • Describe the selection and use of hardware.

3. Aliphatic yellow wood glue Box nails Butt hinge Carriage bolts Casein glue Casing nails Clearance hole Common nails Continuous Hinge Countersunk Cylinder locks Drive screw Fasteners Finish nails Gauge number Hardware Hasp Lag screws Machine bolts Terminology

4. Mastics Mortise locks One way screw Penny Pilot hole Pot life Protein glues Resorcinol resin glue Rim locks Setting time Sinkers Stove bolts Strap hinges Synthetic glues Tee hinge Toenailing Urea-formaldehyde glue White polyvinyl glue Terminology

5. Interest Approach • Ask students if they know what fasteners and hardware are. • Ask them to give examples of each. Show samples of fasteners and hardware. • Talk about the importance of fasteners and hardware in making projects more functional. • Quality construction begins with careful planning and selection of materials. • Selection of fasteners and hardware can “make” or “break” a project.

6. Anticipated Problem: How can I select and use nails?

7. Nails • Most commonly used wood fasteners. • Each type of nail has specific uses. • Penny: Nail size unit, abbreviated with the lower case letter “d”.

8. (Pictures Courtesy, Interstate Publishers, Inc.)

9. Nails • Sold by weight: • Pound, 50 pound box, and 100 pound keg. • Split less wood, make your work stronger, save fingers, and save money by: • Choosing the right type and size of nail

10. Fasteners • Fasteners, sometimes called rough hard-ware, are items used to hold the parts of a project together • nails, screws, bolts, and glue

11. Hardware • Hardware, sometimes called finish hardware, is metal items used for ornamental as well as functional purposes. • Examples include hinges, drawer pulls, knobs, handles, catches, and locks.

12. Common Nails • Largest in diameter and have thick heads. • Designed for rough carpentry (like building framing) and are easy to drive without bending. (Pictures Courtesy, Interstate Publishers, Inc.)

13. Box Nails • Used wherever common nails might split the wood. • Bend more easily because of the smaller wire used to form them. (Pictures Courtesy, Interstate Publishers, Inc.)

14. Box Nails • Head is thinner and larger in diameter than the head of the common nail. • Sinkers: Box nails which are cement coated • Nail holding power may also be improved by: • Galvanizing, ringing, or threading.

15. Casing nails • Same weight as box nails, but have a small, conical head. • Used to attach door and window casings and other wood trim. (Pictures Courtesy, Interstate Publishers, Inc.)

16. Finish Nails • Have the thinnest cross section and the smallest head. • Head is only slightly larger in diameter than the body of the nail. • Slight depression on the top of the head helps keep the nail set from slipping when “setting the nail”.

17. Specialized nails

18. Driving the Nail • 1. Hold it upright firmly between the thumb and first finger • 2. Tap the nail with the hammer until it will stand by itself • 3. Then drive the nail with full swings of hammer using both the wrist and forearm.

19. Driving the Nail • Use a swinging motion rather than short jabs. • Hit the nail squarely each time. • Use a hammer size to match the size of the nail to be driven (20 oz. hammer for 16d nails, 12 oz. hammer for small finish nails, etc.).

20. Driving the Nail • If the nail is likely to bend, lubricate the point with soap, wax, or oil or drill a pilot hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the nail.

21. To Avoid Splitting: • Never use a nail larger than needed. • Blunt the point of the nails (turn the nail upside down and hit the point with a hammer),

22. To Avoid Splitting: • Do not drive a series of nails in a straight line parallel to the grain. • Never toenail when you can nail straight into the wood. • Toenailing is driving a nail at an angle into the side of a board rather than driving straight into the wood.

23. Anticipated Problem: How can I select and use wood screws?

24. Wood Screws • Advantages over nails: • Screws hold wood more securely than nails, • Are easily tightened or removed, and • Leave a neat appearance. • Disadvantages compared to nails: • Screws are more expensive and • Require more labor for installation.

25. Basic Wood Screws • Have several screw head slot types • straight, • cross (Phillips), • square, • star • Three commonly shaped screw heads are flat, oval, and round.

26. Screw Heads • Flat heads may be countersunk (meaning that the top of the head is flush with the surface of the wood). • Oval headed screws are used mainly to fasten hinges or other finish hardware.

27. Screw Heads • Round headed screws are utility screws and are used where the fastened piece is too thin to permit countersinking. • Wood screws are made of steel, brass, or other metals.

28. Matching the Screwdriver Size to the Slot (Pictures Courtesy, Interstate Publishers, Inc.)

29. Special Wood Screws • Drive Screw: Special screw made to be driven with a hammer • Threads that are far apart and may not have a slot for a screwdriver.

30. Special Wood Screws • One-way screw: Designed to be tightened with a standard screwdriver but cannot be turned out with the screwdriver • Designed to prevent burglary and theft.

31. Lag Screws • Lag screws, sometimes called lag bolts, are special heavy duty screws made with a square or hex bolt head.

32. Screw Gauges • Screws are sized by length in inches and by diameter. • Gauge Number: Diameter of the screw. • To calculate the gauge number subtract 1/16 inch from the diameter and multiply the result by 80.

33. Actual Size of Common Wood Screws (Pictures Courtesy, Interstate Publishers, Inc.)

34. Using Large Wood Screws • Require three holes in order to be inserted and countersunk. • When two pieces of wood are joined with screws, the clearance hole (hole which is slightly larger than the screw shank) is drilled in the first board to allow the shank of the screw to pass without binding.

35. Pilot Hole • Pilot hole: Hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the threaded portion of the screw • Drilled into the second board. • Allows easy tightening without danger of splitting the wood.

36. Pilot Hole • If the screw is to be countersunk, use a countersink bit to drill a beveled hole to match the width of the top of the screw.

37. When the screw is tightened: • Top of the head should be even with the wood. • Use a standard, Phillips, or square shank screwdriver large enough to fill the screw slot. • Using the correct size screwdriver will result in tightening with less effort and fewer damaged screw slots.

38. Anticipated Problem: What types of bolts are used to fasten wood?

39. Bolts • Made of steel with either round, square, or hexagonal heads and threaded shanks. • Threads may run the full length of the bolt, or they may stop a certain distance from the head, and leave a smooth upper shank. • Stronger than nails or screws, but are more expensive.

40. Stove bolts • Have either flat or round heads that look like wood screws but a threaded shank with a nut like other bolts. • To tighten: • Use a screwdriver on the head and a wrench on the nut. • Commonly used with the installation of hinges.

41. Carriage bolts • Have a round head with a square shank which pulls into the wood to hold the top of the bolt while a wrench is used to tighten the nut.

42. Machine bolts • Have either a square or hexagonal head with a nut shape that matches the head shape. • Machine bolts are used with metal and wood. • To tighten: • Use a wrench on the bolt head and another on the nut.

43. Anticipated Problem What glues are suitable for fastening wood?

44. Glue • Properly glued wood joint is stronger than the wood itself. • Wood to be glued should be dry, smooth, and free of dirt, oil, and other coatings.

45. Glue • Clean dirt, paint, and other coatings from wood with an abrasive such as a scraper, wire brush, or steel wool. • Regardless of the type of glue used, a good fit with both pieces of wood in contact at all points is necessary for a strong joint.

46. Glue • Can be applied with a • Squeeze bottle, • Brush, or • Paint roller. • Pressure is applied to the glue joint with: • Clamps, nails, screws, or other fasteners.

47. Glue • When the pressure is applied, the glue should ooze out from around the joint. If it does not, you are skimping on glue and may have a weak joint.

48. Glue • Exterior glues should be labeled as waterproof. • Interior glues will be labeled as water resistant. • When in doubt about the future use of your project apply exterior glue.

49. Older Glues • Older glues are protein glues. • Protein glues: Glues made from animal or plant parts or products. • Casein glue: Made from milk protein and is a powder that is mixed with water. • Interior water resistant glue.

50. Older Glues • Cellulose cement, also called “airplane cement”: Quick drying, waterproof glue made from plants. • This glue is used most often in building models.