Chapter 16 Haircutting

1. Chapter 16Haircutting

2. “Although fate presents the circumstances, how you react depends on your character.”– Anonymous

3. Objectives Identify reference points on the head form and understand their role in haircutting. Define angles, elevations, and guidelines. List the factors involved in a successful client consultation. Explain the use of the various tools of haircutting. Name three things you can do to ensure good posture and body position while cutting hair.

4. Anatomy of the Skull Reference points –Parietal ridge –Occipital bone

5. Apex Four corners Anatomy of the Skull (continued)

6. Areas of the Head Top Front Sides Crown Nape Back Fringe

7. Lines and Angles Straight lines Angles

8. Straight Lines Horizontal Vertical Diagonal Lines and Angles (continued)

9. Angles: beveling, stacking Lines and Angles (continued)

10. Elevation Elevation: angle at which hair is held from head Sections: uniform working areas Subsections: smaller partings Graduation: layers described in degrees

11. Graduation Below 90 degrees: builds weight Above 90 degrees: removes weight

12. Cutting Line Cutting line: angle at which fingers are held when cutting

13. Guidelines Stationary guide (does not move) Traveling guide (moves as haircut progresses)

14. Elevation Examples Blunt, one-length cut 90-degree elevation

15. 45-degree with 90-degree Overdirection Elevation Examples (continued)

16. Client Consultation What does client want? How much time is available? What is lifestyle? What is preferred look (classic or trendy)?

17. Identifying Face Shape Pull hair back or wrap with towel. Note length and width of face. Note balance of features. Weight and volume Profiles

18. Hairlines and Growth Patterns Hairline: the outermost perimeter along face, around ears, and on neck Growth pattern: direction hair grows from scalp

19. Hair Analysis Hairlines and growth patterns Density (hairs per square inch) Texture (diameter of a hair strand) Wave pattern (amount of movement in the hair strand)

20. Tools Haircutting shears • Straight razor

21. Clippers Trimmers Sectioning clips Wide-tooth comb Tail comb Barber comb Styling/cutting comb Tools (continued)

22. All About Shears Steel Gauging hardness Rockwell hardness Cast shears Forged shears

23. Parts of a Shear Cutting edge Pivot Adjustment knob Finger tang Ring-finger hole Thumb hole

24. Shear Maintenance Daily cleaning and lubrication Daily tension adjustment and balancing Weekly cleaning and lubrication Disinfecting shears Sharpening shears

25. Purchasing Shears Consider dominant hand design Know how manufactured Learn about steel quality Decide on correct blade edge Select best handle design Be sure of fit

26. Hold shears in hand. Swivel thumb shears. Learn about service agreement. Ask about warranty. Analyze cost. Determine how many needed. Purchasing Shears (continued)

27. Fitting Shears Fitting ring finger Fitting thumb Relaxing grip Correct finger position and alignment

28. Holding Shears

29. Palming the Shears

30. Holding the Razor Method A Open razor so handle is higher than shank. Place thumb on thumb grip. Place index, middle, and ring fingers on shank. Place little finger in tang. Position razor on top of subsection

31. Holding the Razor (continued) Method B Open razor so handle and shank form a straight line. Place thumb on grip and wrap fingers around handle. Palm razor by curling ring finger and little finger around razor. Hold comb between razor and index and middle fingers.

32. Posture and Body Position Position the client. Sitting straight Legs not crossed Center your weight. Knees slightly bent, not locked Bend one knee to lean slightly Stand in front of section being cut.

33. Positions for Cutting Angles Cutting over fingers Cutting below fingers Cutting palm-to-palm

34. Safety in Haircutting Palm shears. Do not cut past second knuckle. Take care around ears. Balance shears and place knuckles. Use razor guard. Dispose of blades carefully.

35. Cutting Curly Hair Shrinks more than straight hair Minimal tension (wide-tooth comb) Naturally “graduates” itself Expands more than straight hair No razor Texturizing techniques

36. Curly Haircut

37. Cutting Fringe Can use stationary guide Short bangs make strong statement. Slide cut long fringe. Cut small portion of fringe. To blend or not to blend

38. Razor Cutting Razor parallel to subsection at 45-degree angle Razor held at 45-degree angle. Effective with blonde hair Guide above fingers

39. Razor-Cutting Tips Avoid using on coarse, wiry, or damaged hair. Always use a guard. Always use a new blade. Keep hair wet. Hold razor at an angle; never force.

40. Slide Cutting Used to cut or thin hair Blends shorter hair to longer Useful in texturizing Only on wet hair

41. Scissors-Over-Comb Hair held in place with comb. Shear tips remove length. Method used to create short tapers. Works best on dry hair. Lift hair with comb; comb acts as guide.

42. Do not hold hair between fingers. Shears and comb move up head together. Strive for continual motion. Scissors-Over-Comb (continued)

43. Scissors-Over-Comb Steps Stand in front of client. Place comb. Move comb up head. Angle comb to blend with longer hair.

44. More Tips Work with small areas. Start at hairline and work up. Cross-check work diagonally. Use barber comb for close areas.

45. Texturizing with Shears Point-cutting and notching

46. Free-hand notching Slithering or effilating Slicing Carving Carving the ends Texturizing with Shears (continued)

47. Texturizing with a Razor Removing weight Free-hand slicing Razor-over-comb

48. Texturizing with Thinning Shears and Razor Remove bulk or weight. Section as for haircut. Comb subsection from head. Cut 4 to 5 inches from scalp. Stay farther from scalp for coarse hair. Remove weight from ends.

49. Thinning shears-over-comb Other thinning shears techniques Free-hand slicing with razor Razor-over-comb Razor rotation Texturizing with Thinning Shears and Razor (continued)

50. Tips for Clipper Cutting Work against natural growth pattern. Work in small sections (no wider than 3 inches). Determine comb angle.