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T H R I S S U R A T I T S F A B U L O U S B E S T Undoubtedly Undoubtedly Cultural capital of Kerala A crowd-puller not in hundreds and thousands, but millions- but also its pride of place as one of the cradles of Malayalam literature. 1
Table of contents ............................................................................................... Pooram 3 ............................................................................................... Pulikali 4 .......................................................................................... Chamayam 5 ............................................................................. Elanjithara Melam 6 ........................................................................................... Churches 7 ........................................................................................... Bible Tower 8 ..................................................... Shakthan Thamburan Palace 9 .................................... Archaeological and Art and Museum 9 ........................................................................... Mural Arts Museum 9 ...................................................................... 10 Thrissur Kole Wetlands ...................................................................................... Vilangan Hills 10 ....................................................................................... Boom In Trade 10 ........................................................................................... Real Estate 10 ...................................................................... Information Technology 11 2
The name Thrissur- originally Thri Siva Peroor and previously known by its anglicized form Trichur- in central Kerala reminds me of its credentials as one of the most potential markets for retail trade in gold and Allopathic medicines- now, sure, real estate, textiles, etc. and Informa- tion Technology are catching up- besides its huge scope as a tourist attraction. It is the fourth largest city and the third largest urban agglomeration in Kerala and the twentieth in India. Undoubtedly it is the cultural capital of Kerala POORAM Undoubtedly, it is the cultur- al capital of Kerala, deserv- edly so because of not only the world renowned Thrissur Pooram – a crowd-puller not in hundreds and thousands, but millions- but also its pride of place as one of the cradles of Malayalam literature, the seat of cultural institutions of repute and glory like Kala- mandalam and equally signifi- cant academic institutions that have given birth to a number of distinguished personalities. Couple with this saleable cultural aspect lots of churches and their unique mural paint- ings, carvings and sculptures, temples and their kerala-style architecture, featuring ga- bled roofs and dormer windows, the rarest of rare performances like Pulikkali, intro- duced by Maharaja Rama Varma Shakthan Thampuran of Cochin (on the fourth day of Onam festival, celebrated with all fervour, enthusiasm and fun by all Malayalis, spread across the word, irrespective of religion, creed, faith and caste), wherein human beings paint themselves in the ‘stripes’ of tigers and dance with rhythmic precision to the per- cussion magic that reverberates loud and clear all the way across the length and breadth of the city, then historical structures like Shakthan Tampuran Palace and museums 3
which speak volumes of the past by their very presence and natural sites like Vilangan Hills that holds you spell-bound by way of its diversions and the panoramic beauty of the whole city that it offers from the summit. What else a tourist needs for an aesthetic bliss? Pulikali Thrissur has its main township, Thrissur town, built around the 65-acre hillock called Thekkinkadu Maidan, in the heart of which nestles the famed Vadukkunathan Temple that plays host to the enthralling and world-renowned Thrissur Pooram with its caparisoned, majestically attired and decorated elephants, panchavadyams and melams- the possible cacophony turned into symphonic composition with chenda, thimila, madalam, trumpet, cymbal and edakka (different types of percussion instruments) rolling and jingling in ter- rific rhythm and timing- and the at least one million people who gather on the D-Day. In short, Thrissur city, circumambulating the Thekkinkadu Maidan, descends into the plain Kole Wetlands- a natural drainage for the city- and ascends to Vilangan Hills in the form of a wave, the eye-catching tourist attractions like churches, temples, towers, pal- aces, paddyfields, skyscrapers, villas, apartment blocks, etc. comfortably and splendidly placed in and around. 4
As its name and fame indicate, Thrissur Pooram, the mother of all poorams (festivals), always begins with a bang. The fabulous festival, celebrated with fervor, enthusiasm, fun, frolic and blended with devotion, sets its tone in the Malayalam month of Medam (April to May) and the cultural capital remains a mute witness to the largest collection of people, elephants and festivities of all kinds for 36 hours from the wee hours on the Puram Day: majestic elephants, 50 or more, adorned with golden caparison (nettipattam), accoutre- ments (chamayam), ornamental fan made of peacock feathers (alavattam), royal fan (ven- chamaram), sacred bells and decorative umbrellas, sashaying along the thoroughfares of the city to the rhythmic and rolling melody of Panchavadyam, synchronized by chenda, thimila, madalam, trumpet, cymbal and edakka, on their way to Thekkinkadu Maidan, the main venue of the festival; tourists and devotees from all parts of the state, the country and the world thronging the maidan; ear-soothing and symphonic Elanjitharamelam that keeps the buffs glued to the rolling of the percussion and the melody of wind instruments; the dazzling fireworks display that is more than a match to any similar events in the world and always springs surprise with any innovation apart from the usual pyrotechniques beaming and lighting up the sky and releasing the glowing embers like falling flowers- modern pyrotechnics are in no use here - and above all, Kudamattom, the magnificent display of creative genius in the form of colourful and innovative umbrellas that change colours in the twinkling of an eye and are exchanged by the competing groups-Thiruvam- bady and Paramekavu-much to the delight of spectators. 5
Obeisance to Vadakkunathan or Lord Shiva In short, every event in this fiesta is marked by the enthusiastic and healthy competition between Thiruvambady and Paramekavu groups of temples that pay obeisance to Vadakkunathan or Lord Shiva. Almost all temples in and around Thrissur town take part and contribute their might to the pooram festivities. ‘Kudamattom’ are offered by none other than the churches The most colourful and spectacular temple festival synthesizes different cultures like Chris- tian, Hindu and Muslim into a secular extravaganza–all the paraphernalia associated with Thrissur Pooram are designed and given shape by the coordinated efforts of Hindu organi- zations, Christian Churches and Muslim community. For example, the materials needed for umbrellas that play a stellar role in the enchanting ‘Kudamattom’ are offered by none other than the churches. Then the pandal works are crafted by the Muslim community. Elanjithara melam One may miss out Elanjitharamelam, the percussion symphony or Kudamattom, the eye-popping colour display that dazzles you to death during one year or two years, but none can think of missing the fireworks display that holds your mind, soul and body together into unimaginable concentration with crackers and other explosives bursting into multi-coloured flower-like ‘embers’ that pour down in a jiffy. 6
Then there is the most-visited one in Kerala called Pooram Exhibition conducted in Thek- kinkadu Maidan. Brainchild of freedom fighters from Thrissur, it promotes Indian products. All said and done, it would be inappropriate not to mention the legend behind Thrissur Pooram. Before the advent of Thrissur Puram in 1798, Arattupuzha Puram in (Thrissur district) was the largest temple festival in Kerala. All the temples in the district, even those in Thrissur town, with their purams would assemble at Arattupuzha for the mega event. However, during one year the incessant rains lashing the district played the spoilsport and the participants were late in arrival. For the same reason they were denied the entry. Their grievances, in fact, annoyed Raja Rama Varma or famously known as Sakthan Tham- puran, the Maharaja of Cochin from 1790 to 1805. The wounded Raja in 1798 unified the 10 temples situated around Vadakkunathan Temple and organized the celebration of Thris- sur Pooram. Churches The secular character perceived in the preparations and conduct of Thrissur Pooram, to an extent, is also echoed in the role played by other communities for the overall enhancement of tourism potential of the cultural capital. Christian churches are epitomes of architectural and artistic splendor, quite evident from the very sight of Our Lady of Lourdes Syro-Mala- bar Catholic Metropolitan Cathedral or Lourde Palli, and Basilica of Our Lady of Dolours or Puthanpally, as they are known among the common public. Lourde Palli Rated as one of the largest churches in Kera- la and dedicated to Our Lady of Lourdes, Sy- ro-Malabar Catholic Metropolitan Cathedral or Lourde Palli is reputed for its imposing and majestic interior. Its eye-catching feature is an underground shrine, acclaimed by many as a masterpiece of architectural glory. 7
Basilica of Our Lady of Dolours or Puthanpally is too well-known as one of the tallest churches in South India and the devotional programmes there draw a large number of people from all over the country, especially during the feast days. If there is any comparison in South India to the Sistine Chapel in the Vatican City, it is St Anthony’s Forane Church in Ollur, whose every inch of space is adorned with the loftiest achievements of the painter, the sculptor, the ceramics expert, the carpenter, the gold- smith and all craftsmen of that ilk through every medium relevant and conceivable like gold, silver, iron, bronze, wood, ivory and stones including laterite, granite and precious stones. In what can be termed as a unique feature the Church boasts of more than 5,000 angel imag- es in fresco, mural, wood, plaster, stone, metal and ivory. The paintings on the other hand cov- er thousands of sq ft and are known for their aesthetic splendor. Bible tower Then the tallest church tower in India and Asia, Bible Tower towers above and behind two similar structures of 140 ft height. Devotees and tourists can gaze through the childhood of Christ carved in wood, the healing of Christ depicted in stained glass, the miracles of Christ in brass, the sufferings of Christ in oil paints, picturesque paintings of apostles in terracot- ta, the life history of St Thomas in mural paintings and resurrection of Christ depicted on canvas. Palaces and museum Palaces and museums are another group of attractions that add to the lure of Thrissur City as a tourist destination. These quaint epitomes, even in their deafening silence are vocal and convey stories of the lurking past to the aesthetically discerning tourists, who are in search such hidden truths that await their curiosity to open up. I am quoting the features of a few of them. 8
Shakthan Thampuran Palace Earlier known as Vadakkekara Palace and recon- structed in Kerala-Dutch style in 1795 by Sakthan Thampuran, the palace is marked by different gal- leries that treasure valuable relics of the past like bronze statues of the period between 12th century and 18th century, granite statues of the era from 9th to 17th century, ancient coins that were in cir- culation in the former province of Kochi and neigh- bouring kingdoms, some of the milestones of the Kochi Dynasty and the genesis and evolution of an- cient writings. Archaeological and Art Museum This museum has in its repertoire rare collections of wood carvings, metal sculptures, paint- ings, ancient jewellery and other artifacts that educate the tourists and students about the ar- chitectural heritage of the state. Conspicuous of a blend of traditional and Western influence in its construction, this stately museum can be proud of having the largest collection of excavated materials from Megalithic sites in Kerala. Mural Arts Museum The museum, dedicated to the local mural arts, also boasts of excavated materials from Indus Valley and Harappan civilizations, then Cheraman Parambu, Kodungallur. It also treasures manuscripts written on dry palm leaves, known as olagranthangal in Malay- alam. 9
Thrissur Kole Wetlands Kole Wetlands provides 40 per cent of Kerala’s rice requirement, acts as a natural drain- age system for Thrissur City and district, though its productivity is countered by the threat-quotient, ratified and seriously considered by Ramsar Convention. Kole Wet- lands is located in the Central Asian Flyway of migratory birds and in terms of number of birds, it is the third largest in India. It has been recognised as one of India’s Important Bird Areas by the Bird Life International. Wrapped in thick bush, this green hillock finds favour with the young and the old. Not only that, it provides a panoramic view of whole Thrissur City, dotted with thousands of acres of green paddyfields, water-filled Kole lands, streams and verdant villages. I don’t think the boom in trade in Thrissur is a new thing. Even during my college days, Thrissur had its fame as one of the most potential retail markets in India for gold. Now, old war-horses have been replaced by new-generation businessmen, enterprising and bold enough to branch out and spread their wings beyond the limits of the state and even the country and its net-result is bound to reflect on Thrissur market. Apart from this, it is one among the cities with the highest savings density. All these factors have its impact on sectors like textile, stationeries, grocery, hardware and everything under the sun, quite understandable from the number of malls, hyper- markets, big showrooms, multiplexes, supermarkets, hypermarkets and skyscrapers that are coming up here and there. Real estate Then it is small wonder that the city is witnessing a real estate boom. TBPL, Sobha Tech City with its mall, skyscrapers, multiplexes, villas and similar fabulous structures is a stunning example. Retail giants are flocking to the cultural capital of the state in the hope of minting millions. 10
Information technology Information technology has started making its presence felt. The are ample proofs for the trend. The large number of colleges and computer institutes, service centres and all such firms are likely to give further boost to the sector. This may be the reason why lifestyle in the City is luxurious. People here have no inhibi- tions in spending money for cultural activities, magnificent houses, food, entertainment and even booze. Look at the prosperous villages with palace-like houses, lined along the left and right of all sorts of highways. That is why Thrissur was selected as the model district for the country by experts. Eat, drink and enjoy for tomorrow we may die, it seems many inmates of this city go ac- cording to this Epicurean philosophy. Thrissur was arguably the most potential market for liquor, especially foreign-made Indian liquor. Now, the attempt of the former Kerala Government (UDF) to put a stop to it by way of prohibition has ended up in the closure of many many bars. But, tipplers, you need not worry, LDF is trying to reverse the trend! Then hotels and restaurants that satiate veggies and non-veggies are more than suffi- cient here. Anyway, non-vegetarian delicacies like beef with steaming porotta are the hot favourite irrespective of religion, caste and creed. This in no way indicates that there is no freaks for vegetarian dishes. There are good number of such outlets, noted for their taste and honest approach towards the food supplied. Which means you can be rest assured that there will be no curdling of the stomach due to ill-health, because of adul- terated food. But do not be so sure about every outlet. 11
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