Wine Industry and cultivation of vines in Japan

1. Wine Industry and cultivation of vines in Japan December ２０１０ TAKAHASHI Teiji

2. History of wine making in Japan Meiji Government encouraged the wine production as a part of the Industry development policy and its failure In 1874 Mita breeding station was established.introduced vines from Europe and the USA , distributed them to many regions in Japan In Iwai village (Yamanashi) a winery was founded. Other wineries were opened. In １８８４ Infected by phylloxera In 1890 Zenbei Kawakami started the vinification and cross breeding Meanwhile, the wine was not consumed. Many wineries stopped their business Placing sweetened wine on the market and the expansion of its consumption １８８６年　Denbei Kamiya Hati budousyu 　１８９９年　Sinjiro Torii Akadama port wine (Origin of Suntory) During the war, the tartaric acid was needed for radiodetector. The wine making survived. Due to the higher standard of living and the change of eating pattern, the consumption of real wine started in Japan, Triggered by Tokyo Olympic games and by Osaka International exhibition. At first stage, the consumption of imported wine( promoted by activities of women)

3. Production and import of wineNational tax agency

4. Supply of wine in Japan （２００８）

5. Concentration of wine productionMonthly report of statistics of liquors and foods

6. Supply of grapes by farmersSurvey of particular fruits by MAFF in 2007 Retrograde development of supply by farmers Faltering agriculture lower price of grapes 　　　　　　　　　（Competition with imported juice) Increase of production in winery ‘s farming land Inwinery’s farming land, by contract farming with farmers、 by agricultural organization , Purchase from farmers

7. Recent trend of wine consumption Stable consumption of certain quantity ・・・ Understanding of quality of wine , of related culture 　　　　・・・Preference of quality wine Stable consumption of ordinary wine as well Competition with Imported wine Recent trend 　・Increasing interest in wine produced by Japans’ grapes (100%) for consumers and producers Remarkable improvement of quality of Japan’s wine for recent 15 years 　・Revitalization of older regional wineries and new comers (vignerons) in regions , who are eager to produce high quality Japan’s wine 　・In large wineries, strengthening of high quality wine by 100 % of grapes in Japan

8. Concept of high quality winerecent notion ・Quality of wine depends on 80% quality of grapes, 20% technology of vinification ・Good wine is to produce good grapes Wine making is agriculture Wineries themselves , both large and small are eager to produce good grapes. Good grape= sugar and acid high contents, good color and flovour, high contents of mineral, small fruits, thick skin. ・As far as pursuing high quality, character attributed to the region is observed Notion of appellation d’origine (AOC) ・Combination of names of origin and grapes in labelling Conjunction of the notion developed in Europe and the notion developed in the new world Example: Kikyogahara Merlot, Hokusin Chardonnay, Komoro Merlot ・ Possibility of export of high quality Japan’s wine

9. Evolution of production of grapes for wine in Japan ・Belief that climate conditions such as high humidity are unfavorable to the production of vines in Japan Natural features and notion of terroir Technology for production of table grapes has been advanced. ・For many years, the rest of table grapes has been used for wine production. ・Recognition of need of European varieties (vitis vinifera) to produce good wine.Introduction of vitis vinifera and trial of cultivation by large wineries Transfer of technology and know-how to small wineries Selection of suitable land, soil improvement（deacidification, drainage）、 Cultivation methods and management （ trellis training- espalier training, pruning） Prevention of adverse effect of rain ( rain cut, multi） ・Identification that some varieties are possible to cultivate, to produce good wine. Still, under the process of trial and testing, possibility of identification of others varieties ・Reappraisal of indigenous varieties, Kosyu, Muscat-Bailey A, Zenkoji

10. European varieties in Japan 　Ｆｌａｇｓｈｉｐ　Japan’s wine Kikyogahara Merlot Mercian Hokusinn ChardonnayMercian Jounohira cabernet sauvignonMercian TomiSuntory Komoro MerlotManns Suitable varieties in Japan Chardonnay、Merlot、Cabernet sauvignon、Petit verdot Hokkaido: Zweigeltrebe、Muller-Thurgau、Kelner Varieties rather difficult, no sufficient experiences in Japan Pinot noir, Rhine reisling, Sauvignon blanc, Shirah

11. Main regions in East of Japan

12. Main production areas of large wineries Mercian Kikyogahara Nagano Merlot Hokusin Nagano Chardonnay Jyonohira (Katunuma) Yamanashi Cabernet sauvignon Omori Akita Reisling(3ha) Niizuru FukushimaChardonnay(40,000 bottles) Mariko Nagano Chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc、Merlot (release in 2010) 　　　　　　　　　　　　　（12ha, old mulberry field (derelict field)、 rain 900mm) Suntory Tomino-oka YamanashiTomi(150ha, Altitude 400~600m） Shiojiri Nagano Shinsyu Chardonnay、Kikyogahara Merlot（10ha) Manns Komoro NaganoMerlot、Chardonnay(４ha, contract farming10ha) HigashiyamaNagano Cabernet sauvignon (3.3haaltitude 500m rain 950mm)

13. Wines of 100% Japanese grapes by larges wineries Mercian Release of Mariko wine from 2010 Suntory Japan premium (Thrilling Japanese wine in the world) from 2010 100% domestic grapes, Series of regions, Shinsyu, Shiojiri、Tugaru、Kaminoyama, Azumino 100% domestic grapes, Series of grape varieties Muscat bailey A, Kosyu, Chardonnay, Merlot Manns Solaris series Komoro Chardonnay、Shinsyu Chardonnay、Komoro Merlot Thikumagawa Merlot、 Shinsyu Cabernet sauvignon, Higashiyama Cabernet sauvignon

14. Example of medium and small wineries Takeda winery Yamagata Kaminoyama 15ha Cabernet、Merlot、Chardonnay、Reisling、Muscat bailey A Ofuse winery Nagano 5ha Chardonnay 5,000 bottles、Merlot 5,000bottles Iwanohara wine Niigata 10ha Muscat bailey A, Black queen Hayashi farm Goiti wine Nagano 7ha, 38 farmers in contract Special red、Gold red、Concord without additives、Niagara Izutu wine Nagano Merlot barrel fermented、Cabernet barrel fermented Misawa winery（Tyuou budosyu）Yamanashi, 8ha ( old mulberry field ), Cabernet, Merlot, petit verdot, 4ha Kosyu Beau paysage、Tsugane Yamanashi 2.8ha Cabernet, Chardonnay, Merlot Sakaori winery Yamanashi , Mainly by contract with farmers Muscat bailey A Around half of prizes in Japan wine competition were given to wines of small and medium size wineries in 2010. All over Japan, approximately 200 wineries in 2010

15. Cultivation method of vines in Japan （Control ofgrowing environment） Limitation of fertilizer and pesticides （Control of growth） Prevention of much growth Leaf thinning、pruning、摘芯、espalier training、 high density planting (3,000~6,000/ha) （High density planting and control of yield） Two branches (arcures), 10~15 buds (yeux)、one cluster par bud Restriction of yield (5~15 tonnes/ha), Kosyu table grapes: 17 tonnes /ha) Distance between pieds :1~1.5m、distance between line (row) 2~3m （Prevention of humidity (rain)） Problem of rain in fall：　rain cut, multi （Prevention of diseases）　

16. Green house effect to grapes • Problems of color and sugar contents for black grapes problems of sugar contents and flavor for white grapes • According to recent studies, certain level of low temperature is important, instead of the difference of temperature between day time and night. • Above 25 degrees in night = the sufficient black color does not come. Without low temperature in night and at dawn= the level of sugar contents is insufficient. ・　Pionet (table grape) : no sufficient color. Kyoho (table grape) in Makioka district : insufficient color in recent years. • In Kikyogahara, suffering from diseases in recent years. Irregulier rains. However, color problem does not exist. The cultivation of cabernet became possible in recent years.（Izutu wine grows this variety） • Diseases became serious under the greenhouse effect. Tokachi areas (Hokkaido) are suffering, due to the high humidity in summer. 30 % were infected by mildew in Yamanashi prefecture (2010) Kosyu and Muscat bailey A have been suffering from diseases (2010)

17. Green house effect(Continued) • Chardonnay in a winery in North Nagano has been totally devastated, because of missing of timing of spraying （2010) • Niagara is cultivated all over Japan. In Yamanashi, the aroma are poor. No problem in Kikyogahara for Niagara and Concord. • The flavor of Chardonnay is the most intensive just before sun rise. The wine in Kumamoto (Kyusyu) has won a gold prize. Grapes were harvested at dawn. • The production of good wine would be possible in western part of Japan by selection of suitable land at high altitude. • Opinions that too much concerns about the greenhouse effect would induce a confusion, in longer terms.

18. Institutional issues of wine production and consumption ・Liquor tax law regulates the wine only for the purpose of imposition of tax. Any specific legal definition of wine does not exist ( Fruits liquor) ・There is not any legislation for wine industry development, neither for the protection of consumers. ( A group of parliamentarians of the liberal democratic party for the development of wine industry has been created. ) ・No legal standards for the labelling （Voluntary standards by some groups of the industry exist) ・The system of GI （regional collective trade marks, GI system under the law of cooperatives for liquor) does not function well. There is not any registration・designation for wine at the moment. 　（In the world standard, high quality wine is legally segregated from usual wines） 　　・No legal system to classify the domestic high quality wine as GI 　　・Japanese high quality wine is regarded as ordinary one in overseas market. ＝labelling of names of region , of 「barrel fermented」,　「 sur lie」 are not allowed in overseas。 ・ Uncertainty of protection of names of Japanese high quality wines

19. Appellation d’origine management system in Nagano (since 2002） Requirements of production ・Grape varieties and sugar contents Merlot, Chardonnay, Asama merlot =sugar contents over 19 degrees Other varieties are classified according to the minimum degrees of sugar contents(18, 17,and 16 degrees) ・Grapes produced in Nagano prefecture100% ・ Blend of varietiesYes ・Limit of enrichment (Chaptalisation) Degree of sugar contents of grapes maximum limit of alcohol value of enrichment 19 degrees3.15ml/100ml 18 degrees 3.80 17 degrees4.46 16 degrees5.10 Acidification, Deacidification No Addition of AlcoholNo

20. Appellation d’origine management system in Nagano （Continued） ・Juice reserveYes （under 25% of the wine) ・Freezing of grapes Yes ・Blend of different vintage winesNo ・Additivessulfite only Noble wine and wine of frozen grapes Under 350mg/kg Other winesUnder 250mg/kg ・Place of vinification From crush to bottling and bottle aging within the territory of Nagano prefecture ・Sensory test (examen organoleptique) Obligation ・Labelling standards 　　・Surface side Registration mark 　　・Reverse sideName of origin (Nagano)、Name/s of varieties ( percentage)、 Vintage year、Place of production, Name of additive (sulfite)

21. Certification system of appellation d’origine of Kosyu city（2010） １　Categories 　（１）　Wine of grapes produced in Kosyu city 100% of grapes harvested in Kosyu city Sugar contents：　Kosyu: minimum 16 degrees、European varieties: minimun 18 Hibrid varieties: minimum 17 Bland of different varieties is allowable, except Kosyu variety 　（２）　Wine of grapes harvested in Yamanashi prefecture, Vinification in Kosyu city 100 % of grapes harvested in Yamanashi Sugar contents: same standards as above ２　On site verification based on application document by the committee of document examination (by November) ３　Application and Examination by the Committee of document examination ４　Sensory test by the committee of sensory test ５　Examination of labelling ６　Declaration of certification、 Distribution of certification sticker