The Level System

1. The Level System Levels / Tones of Hair Color

2. Performance Objective Upon completion of this assignment, the student will be able to identify levels and tones of natural hair color. Cosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color

3. Specific Objectives • Define level and tone of hair color. • List the levels of hair color. • Determine the level and the base of a clients hair. Cosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color

4. Test your knowledge. How many levels of hair color are there? Cosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color

5. There are 10 levels of hair color Cosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color

6. Test your knowledge. Is there a difference between bases and tones? Cosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color

7. Bases and tones are the same Cosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color

8. Level Systems • Level is the unit of measurement used to identify the lightness and darkness of a color • Value or depth of a color • Scale of 1-10 • Level 1 • Darkest • Level 10 • Lightest • A universal system is available for hairdressers that removes the ominous guesswork & fear of formulations • Manufacturers have hair swatches that can be used to determine the natural level of hair color Cosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color

9. Tone or Tonality • Referred to as a base or tone of hair color • Warmth and coolness of hair color • Under lying color pigment in the hair • The color tone is developed from a combination of color pigments in the hair • The hair’s natural color pigment is found in the cortex layer of the hair • The color pigment is made up of color cells arranged lengthwise in the cortex layer • Natural hair color is developed by combinations of these pigments, either black-brown or red- yellow Cosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color

10. The combination of these colors decides whether the hair will be light or dark Light brown hair has greater amount of yellow/red cells, while dark hair has a greater amount of brown/black cells Warm color – highlightening color Red Orange Yellow Cool – Drab or ash Blue Green violet Tone or Tonality Cosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color

11. Tone or Tonality • Warm colors – appear lighter • reds, oranges and yellows • Warm hair color names • auburn, copper, gold, bronze, honey • Cool colors – appear darker • blues, greens, violets • Cool hair color names • ash, drab, smokey, platinum • Influences results of artificial hair color Cosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color

12. Cosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color

13. Intensity Strength of a color tone • Mild, medium, or strong. • Strawberry blonde Copper brown Bright orange • Various intensities off red shades Cosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color

14. Base Predominant tone of an existing color • Influences the final color result • Base colors • Violet base will deliver cool results & minimize unwanted yellow • Blue base color will minimize orange tones • Red-orange base will create bright, warm results • Gold bases create gold haircolor from brunettes to light blondes Cosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color

15. Identifying the level / tone of natural hair color • Activity • Use a natural level hair swatch • Take 2” square section in crown area • Hold up from scalp • Allow light to pass through • Move swatch from scalp from scalp area along hair strand • The level is determined if the swatch and natural hair blend Cosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color

16. Note • Hair at the crown is usually darker that the front of the hair • Client may not perceive that her “natural “ hair is that dark • Environment, mechanical tools, chemicals affect the look they see • Remember : levels are lightness and darkness only Cosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color

17. Cosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color

18. ARTIFICIAL LIGHTS CAN EFFECT A PERSON’S PERCEPTION OF NATURAL HAIR COLOR FLOURESCENT LIGHTS DISTORT HAIR COLOR. ALWAYS USE NATURAL LIGHT TO ANALYZE HAIR COLOR Cosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color

19. Factors affecting Haircolor • Hair porosity • State of the cuticle • Type of light • Indoors or outdoors, fluorescent & incandescent • Surroundings • Walls painted • Drape • Clothing Cosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color

20. Color Level • Black • Black brown • Darkest brown • Dark brown • Medium brown • Light brown • Dark blonde • Medium blonde • Light blonde • Lightest blonde Cosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color

21. Cosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color

22. Up until now we have been discussing the mixing of colors at full color strength Now we will look at the reaction we get when primary colors are mixed with equal amounts of white Play dough 16 small white balls 5 primary color balls Mix 1 white 1 primary Mix 2 white 1 primary Mix 3 white 1 primary Continue mixing By doing this combination of colors with white you create different colors of depth Depth of Color Cosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color

23. By using various mixtures and combinations the lightest shades are created with almost limitless possibilities Depth or level of color indicates how dark or how light the color really is The more white used in the mixture, the lighter the color The more black used in the mixture, the darker the color Depth of Color Cosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color