Starting up a New Pool

1. Starting up a New Pool Filling the Pool with Water Make sure the filtration system is operational. Based on temperature and type of finish, fill the pool to the middle of the skimmer or specified water level without interruption as rapidly as possible with clean water to help prevent a bowl ring. Place a clean rag on the end of the hose, always placed in the deepest area, to prevent damage to the surface material. Your towns’ water might be acidic, murky, extremely hard or even cloudy. Using your test kit or test strips; test the towns’ water to get a good idea what you will be working with. If this is the first time you’ve filled your pool or you have a large volume pool, test the pool in multiple spots, at least 600 – 900mm below the surface to make sure the readings are right. At no time should any person or pets be allowed in the pool during the fill. Do not allow any external sources of water to enter the pool to prevent streaking. It is recommended that you do not swim in the pool until the water is properly balanced. Test the water for pH, alkalinity, calcium hardness and metals. Record test results. Start the filtration system immediately when the pool is full to the middle of the skimmer or specified water level. Treating Your New Pool with Chemicals ALWAYS ADD A CHEMCIAL TO WATER, NEVER WATER TO THE CHEMICAL. The first couple of weeks after starting up your pool is the time to make sure everything is running right. You will need to check your water readings more often than you will need to once your pool is settled in. Test pool water and balance it to the recommended levels below as soon as the pool is filled. pH 7.2 – 7.8 (Ideal 7.4)

2. Total Alkalinity (TA) 100 – 200ppm (Ideal 120) Calcium Hardness (CH) 200 – 300ppm (Ideal 250) Free Chlorine 2 – 3ppm Cyanuric Acid (CYA) 30 – 50ppm Allow some time for the water to balance out. Take it slowly and add only one chemical at a time. Allow for one full turnover (usually 12 hours) before re-testing and make another adjustment if needed. Your first pool start-up chemical to be used will be to control the pH of the pool, which is the first thing you want to address. If your pH is out of range, nothing you add to your pool will work efficiently, including chlorine. The balance of your pool water depends on proper pH to function correctly. pH directly affects a whole variety of factors, and a good pH falls within a narrow band of 7.2 – 7.6. Follow the recommended amount (based on your pool volume size) and add the amount you need and then re- test after the one full turn-over. The next start-up chemical you will need is sanitiser, the most common of which is chlorine. Chlorine comes in many easy to use forms, (solid tablets, liquid, granules) and is available from a wide variety of retail outlets. The saltwater chlorinator is another very popular option for automatic chlorine production, as it is in effect a mini chlorine gas factory. At first you’ll add chlorine in what’s called "shock" levels – an extra heavy dose to start your pool off. A shock dose coupled with extra circulation will ensure that all the water gets treated properly in the beginning. Keep swimmers out of the pool while shocking, as chlorine at elevated levels can irritate mucous membranes and cause general discomfort. Ensure all equipment like pool cleaners and pool covers are removed during this process. Now it's time to keep the water hardness in check, otherwise known as alkalinity. If pH is like an air conditioner that cools your home, alkalinity is like the thermostat that adjusts your temperature. The two are linked, meaning one changes with the other. Alkalinity is important since water that is too hard negatively affects your pool pump seals and o-rings, jet nozzles and immersed equipment. Lastly, make sure you add some algaecide for good measure. Most people think algaecide is for use only when you see algae. It should however be used as a preventative treatment also. Use an algaecide before you have a need for it, and keep the nasties at bay.

3. Please note: For concrete pools, salt should not be added to the pool for at least 4 weeks. Calcium levels will increase as the concrete cures. DO NOT add calcium for at least 4 weeks and then ONLY when required. The pools cement interior will start its crystallisation hardening process once mixed with water and the majority of its internal chemical hardening will take place within the first 28 days. This critical time period is when a pool interior finish is at its most susceptible to staining, scaling and discolouration. Proper start-up procedures including timely brushing and constant monitoring and adjusting of the pool water is mandatory. Due to unique town water conditions and environmental factors, some of the recommended start-up procedures outlined may need to be modified to protect the pool finish. For example: filling the pool with town water with low calcium hardness, low pH or low total alkalinity levels may call for changes to these procedures. Brushing and monitoring chemical adjustments will be mandatory by the homeowner or a trained pool technician during the service life of any pool surface.