Chapter 16 Haircutting

1. Chapter 16 Haircutting © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

2. “Although fate presents the circumstances, how you react depends on your character.” – Anonymous © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

3. Objectives • Identify reference points on the head form and understand their role in haircutting. • Define angles, elevations, and guidelines. • List the factors involved in a successful client consultation. • Explain the use of the various tools of haircutting. • Name three things you can do to ensure good posture and body position while cutting hair. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

4. Anatomy of the Skull • Reference points –Parietal ridge –Occipital bone © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

5. Anatomy of the Skull (continued) • Apex • Four corners © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

6. Areas of the Head • Top • Nape • Front • Back • Sides • Fringe • Crown © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

7. Lines and Angles • Straight lines • Angles © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

8. Lines and Angles (continued) • Straight Lines – Horizontal – Vertical – Diagonal © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

9. Lines and Angles (continued) • Angles: beveling, stacking © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

10. Elevation • Elevation: angle at which hair is held from head • Sections: uniform working areas • Subsections: smaller partings • Graduation: layers described in degrees © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

11. Graduation • Below 90 degrees: builds weight • Above 90 degrees: removes weight © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

12. Cutting Line • Cutting line: angle at which fingers are held when cutting © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

13. Guidelines • Stationary guide (does not move) • Traveling guide (moves as haircut progresses) © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

14. Elevation Examples • Blunt, one-length cut • 90-degree elevation © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

15. Elevation Examples (continued) • 45-degree with 90-degree • Overdirection © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

16. Client Consultation • What does client want? • How much time is available? • What is lifestyle? • What is preferred look (classic or trendy)? © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

17. Identifying Face Shape • Pull hair back or wrap with towel. • Note length and width of face. • Note balance of features. – Weight and volume – Profiles © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

18. Hairlines and Growth Patterns • Hairline: the outermost perimeter along face, around ears, and on neck • Growth pattern: direction hair grows from scalp © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

19. Hair Analysis • Hairlines and growth patterns • Density (hairs per square inch) • Texture (diameter of a hair strand) • Wave pattern (amount of movement in the hair strand) © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

20. Tools • Haircutting shears • Straight razor © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

21. Tools (continued) • Clippers • Trimmers • Sectioning clips • Wide-tooth comb • Tail comb • Barber comb • Styling/cutting comb © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

22. All About Shears • Steel – Gauging hardness – Rockwell hardness • Cast shears • Forged shears © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

23. Parts of a Shear • Cutting edge • Pivot • Adjustment knob • Finger tang • Ring-finger hole • Thumb hole © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

24. Shear Maintenance • Daily cleaning and lubrication • Daily tension adjustment and balancing • Weekly cleaning and lubrication • Disinfecting shears • Sharpening shears © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

25. Purchasing Shears • Consider dominant hand design • Know how manufactured • Learn about steel quality • Decide on correct blade edge • Select best handle design • Be sure of fit © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

26. Purchasing Shears (continued) • Hold shears in hand. • Swivel thumb shears. • Learn about service agreement. • Ask about warranty. • Analyze cost. • Determine how many needed. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

27. Fitting Shears • Fitting ring finger • Fitting thumb • Relaxing grip • Correct finger position and alignment © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

28. Holding Shears © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

29. Palming the Shears © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

30. Holding the Razor • Method A – Open razor so handle is higher than shank. – Place thumb on thumb grip. – Place index, middle, and ring fingers on shank. – Place little finger in tang. – Position razor on top of subsection © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

31. Holding the Razor (continued) • Method B – Open razor so handle and shank form a straight line. – Place thumb on grip and wrap fingers around handle. – Palm razor by curling ring finger and little finger around razor. – Hold comb between razor and index and middle fingers. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

32. Posture and Body Position • Position the client. – Sitting straight – Legs not crossed • Center your weight. – Knees slightly bent, not locked – Bend one knee to lean slightly • Stand in front of section being cut. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

33. Positions for Cutting Angles • Cutting over fingers • Cutting below fingers • Cutting palm-to-palm © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

34. Safety in Haircutting • Palm shears. • Do not cut past second knuckle. • Take care around ears. • Balance shears and place knuckles. • Use razor guard. • Dispose of blades carefully. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

35. Cutting Curly Hair • Shrinks more than straight hair • Minimal tension (wide-tooth comb) • Naturally “graduates” itself • Expands more than straight hair • No razor • Texturizing techniques © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

36. Curly Haircut © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

37. Cutting Fringe • Can use stationary guide • Short bangs make strong statement. • Slide cut long fringe. • Cut small portion of fringe. • To blend or not to blend © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

38. Razor Cutting • Razor parallel to subsection at 45-degree angle • Razor held at 45-degree angle. • Effective with blonde hair • Guide above fingers © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

39. Razor-Cutting Tips • Avoid using on coarse, wiry, or damaged hair. • Always use a guard. • Always use a new blade. • Keep hair wet. • Hold razor at an angle; never force. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

40. Slide Cutting • Used to cut or thin hair • Blends shorter hair to longer • Useful in texturizing • Only on wet hair © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

41. Scissors-Over-Comb • Hair held in place with comb. • Shear tips remove length. • Method used to create short tapers. • Works best on dry hair. • Lift hair with comb; comb acts as guide. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

42. Scissors-Over-Comb (continued) • Do not hold hair between fingers. • Shears and comb move up head together. • Strive for continual motion. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

43. Scissors-Over-Comb Steps • Stand in front of client. • Place comb. • Move comb up head. • Angle comb to blend with longer hair. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

44. More Tips • Work with small areas. • Start at hairline and work up. • Cross-check work diagonally. • Use barber comb for close areas. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

45. Texturizing with Shears • Point-cutting and notching © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

46. Texturizing with Shears (continued) • Free-hand notching • Slithering or effilating • Slicing • Carving • Carving the ends © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

47. Texturizing with a Razor • Removing weight • Free-hand slicing • Razor-over-comb © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

48. Texturizing with Thinning Shears and Razor • Remove bulk or weight. – Section as for haircut. – Comb subsection from head. – Cut 4 to 5 inches from scalp. – Stay farther from scalp for coarse hair. • Remove weight from ends. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

49. Texturizing with Thinning Shears and Razor (continued) • Thinning shears-over-comb • Other thinning shears techniques • Free-hand slicing with razor • Razor-over-comb • Razor rotation © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

50. Tips for Clipper Cutting • Work against natural growth pattern. • Work in small sections (no wider than 3 inches). • Determine comb angle. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.