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Self-Enclosed Seams. and finishes. Definition. A seam is made when two or more layers of fabric are stitched together. A finish prevents raveling and fraying. Self-Enclosed Seam is a seam in which the raw edge is not exposed but instead is enclosed within the seam.
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Self-Enclosed Seams and finishes
Definition • A seam is made when two or more layers of fabric are stitched together. • A finish prevents raveling and fraying. • Self-Enclosed Seam is a seam in which the raw edge is not exposed but instead is enclosed within the seam. • Disadvantage: may be bulky. • Advantage: clean, finished professional look; will hold up better during the laundry process.
Types of Self-Enclosed Seams and finishes • Flat-Felled Seam • Double-Stitched Seam • Turned and Stitched Seam • ZigZag Finish • Machine Overedge • French Seam
Flat-Felled Seam • Used in sportswear and children’s clothing because it is a tough and durable seam. • Shows on the right side of garment. • Examples: • Jeans • Casual slacks • Shirts and blouses
Double-Stitched Seam • Used on knit fabrics because of the strength and to prevent knits from curling. • Two rows of stitching. • Straight stitch • Zigzag • Overedge • Examples: • Jeans and pants
Turned and Stitched Seam • Used on light to medium fabric; seam may be visible. • Examples: • Blouses • Unlined jackets
ZigZag Finish • Used in medium to heavy fabrics which may ravel. • Can be used on any seam to enclose the raw edge.
Machine Overedge • Used for medium to heavy fabric. • Helps prevent fraying and raveling as well as hide the raw edges. • Produces strong yet stretchy seams on knit fabrics.
French Seam • Used for sheer and light weight fabrics, as well as medium weight fabrics. • Examples: • Blouses • Slacks
French Seam directionsStep One • After cutting fabric from pattern…. • Place fabric wrong sides together and pin
Step Two • Using a straight stitch, sew a ¼” seam on the notched edge. • Backstitch at the beginning and the end.
Step Three • Trim seam to 1/8” width. • Why trim? • Less bulky • Fibers do not poke through seam
Step Four • Fold right sides together. • Press seam to edge.
Step Five • Sew 3/8” from seam edge, backstitch at the beginning and the end. • This will enclose the raw edge from the first seam sewn in step two.
Step Six • Press to one side. • Admire your professional French seam! • Staple French seam sample to your worksheet for a grade.
Now it’s time for you to sew a French seam • Row 1 and Table 1will need the following supplies: • Seam Sample worksheet, with your 1st seam sample completed before fall break. • Fabric and pattern – found on ironing board in back of classroom. • Tote tray • Bobbin case • Shears • Thread and test your machine • Pin fabric to pattern and cut • Wait for Mrs. Hansen to demonstrate the French Seam • Row 2 and Table 2 will have a demonstration first. • After demonstration, collect the supplies above • Thread and test your machine • Start on your French seam • Once French Seam is completed… • Staple to Seam Samples worksheet with 1st seam sample and place on Mrs. Moeller’s desk.
Videos • Turned and Stitched Seam • http://youtu.be/3jpUrBatj3I • ZigZag • http://youtu.be/T7Jy5kC1pro • Flat-Felled Seam • http://youtu.be/OfJ3XI8z_tg
Summary • What is a seam? • What is a French Seam? • Why would you use a French Seam? • Some students will be starting the French seam on their pillow cases….