Darts, easing, gathers, & Casing

1. Darts, easing, gathers, & Casing

2. Darts • Triangular folds of fabric stitched to a point when sewing a garment. • Control fullness • Give shape to fitted clothing • Point to the fullest part of the body

3. Steps to sewing a dart Step #1: Fold the dart with right sides of the fabric together, matching stitching lines. Place on pin exactly at the point and other pins at the small dot markings.

4. Steps to sewing a dart • Step #2: Stitch from the wide end of the dart to the point

5. Steps to sewing a dart • Step #3 Stitch the last two or three stitches as close to the fold line as possible. (This creates a sharp point) Don’t backstitch. • Step #4 Tie thread ends in a knot

6. Easing • Allows fabric to be shaped over a curved area of the body. • Makes flared hems possible. • One edge of fabric is slightly longer than the other • No visible folds or gathers • Most common use is a set-in sleeve

7. Steps to Ease stitching • Step #1: Create a basting stitch. (Stitch close to the seam line with long machine stitches)

8. Steps to Ease stitching • Step #2: Stitch a second row ¼ inch away • Step #3: Pin the fabric, right sides together, with the eased side up

9. Steps to ease stitching • Step #4: Pull up the thread between markings and distribute the fullness evenly. • Step #5: Stitch with standard stitching along the seam line (careful not to stitch in any folds or gathers)

10. Gathers • Soft folds of fabric formed by pulling up basting stitches to make the fabric fit in smaller space. • Start with 2 parallel rows of basting • Bobbin threads are pulled from both ends • Stitched to the shorter length of fabric

11. Casing • A closed tunnel of fabric that holds a piece of elastic or a drawstring inside • Used at: sleeve edges necklines waistlines hemlines • Controls fullness • Easier than a waistband or cuff