Part 3 Getting Ready to Sew

1. Part 3 Getting Ready to Sew

2. Stay Organized • Gather all your notions and supplies • Double-check the steps to take • Press after each construction step • Fit as you go

3. Patterns and Their Parts • Pattern envelope • Front • Drawing or photo • Several garment views • Lists pattern number • Size • Price • “easy”

4. Guide Sheet • Step-by-step information for cutting, marking and sewing • Cut out layouts and general information • How to lengthen or shorten pattern • Reverse side has sewing directions

5. Cutting Layouts • Is a diagram that shows how to arrange pattern pieces on fabric • Separate cutting layout may be included for interfacing and lining

7. Sewing Directions • Step-by-step sewing directions appear on the back of the guide sheet • Fabric key shows how shading and texture indicate the right and wrong side of fabric any interfacing or lining

8. Pattern Pieces • Each piece marked with a number or letter with a specific name (collar, sleeve) • Number of fabric pieces to be cut is also printed on the pattern piece • Symbols and lines serve as guides

9. Pattern Preparation • Pieces will tear quite easily • 1. Remove the entire pattern from envelope • 2. On the guide sheet, circle the cutting layout you will use

10. 3. select the pattern pieces for the view you are sewing • 4. fold the rest of the pattern pieces and put away • 5. cut apart any pattern pieces printed together that you need

11. 6. write your name on the guide sheet, pattern envelope and all the pattern pieces • 7. smooth out pattern pieces • 8. on multi-sized pattern, mark cutting lines for your size • See page 484 Figure 7-4-know symbols • See page 484 Figure 7-5

12. Adjusting the Pattern • Loosely fitted garments, minor differences can be overlooked • For fitted garments, measurements should correspond to your body measurements

13. Understanding Ease • Pattern sizes are designed for the body measurements listed on the pattern envelope • Most garments have ease added to the pattern • Ease is the amount of fullness added to a pattern to allow for movement and comfort

14. Comparing Measurements • Compare your measurements with the ones listed on the pattern envelope • If a measurement is not listed, measure the actual pattern piece • Seam lines are always 5/8 of an inch

16. Pg 487 Lengthen Cut the pattern at adjustment line Keep edges parallel Tape pattern pieces with other paper To add to length measure from the edge of the pattern Shortening Fold the pattern along the adjustment line and bring fold up exactly where it needs to meet new line and tape At lower edge redraw new line Pattern Adjustments

17. Adjusting Width • Total width adjustment of 2 inches or less can be made at the side seams • Adjustments over 2 inches require cutting and spreading pattern pieces • See page 488 figure 8-4

18. To increase Tape paper along pattern piece edge Redraw cutting lines and seam lines See page 488 To decrease Measure in ¼ of necessary amount Redraw cutting lines and side seams

19. Preparing Fabric • Straightening Fabric Ends • Selvage –two finished edges running lengthwise • Straighten the fabric by pulling if possible and on knitted you need to cut • See page 490 Figure 9-1-fabric terms

20. Preshrinking Fabrics • Wash or dry-clean fabric to prevent of minimize shrinkage • Helps remove fabric finishes that cause stitching problems

21. Washable fabrics • Simply wash • If ravel easily, zigzag the raw edges • Hand-washable • Fold fabric and place in hot or warm water for 30 minutes and tumble dry or dry flat • Dry clean • Take to a dry cleaner or self service

22. Straightening the Grain • Off grain – when the crosswise and lengthwise yarns are not at right angles • If not straightened the final product might pull or twist • To straighten pull on the true bias • See page 491 Figure 9-5

23. Pressing Fabric • Press fabric and pattern pieces if necessary • Fabric needs to be flat and no wrinkles

24. Laying out the Pattern • Finding the right side • Usually right side is out on the bolt • May be shinier or brighter

25. Folding the Fabric • Cutting layout shows exactly how to fold fabric • Most are folded with right sides together • Stripes and plaids are folded wrong side out for matching

26. Fabric may need to be folded lengthwise, crosswise, double, or partial • See page 492 Figure 10-1

27. Lengthwise Fold fabric lengthwise with right sides together Crosswise fold fabric crosswise, right sides together Double fold Fold fabric twice along the lengthwise grain, right sides together (usually for knits) Partial fold Fold fabric on lengthwise, right sides together only wide enough for pattern piece See page 492 figure 10-1

28. After folding, smooth out any wrinkles • Work on a large, hard surface to full width of fabric can be laid out

29. Pinning Pattern Pieces • Lay out all pieces in same position as shown in the cutting layout • Most are placed printed side up • An arrow or “place on fold” bracket indicates the grain line • Never tilt or angle a piece to fit • Place pins at right angles

30. Follow These Steps • 1. Start with large pattern pieces that go on the fold • 2. Pin pieces that have a grain line arrow • 3. Count number of pieces on cutting layout and compare to the number on the fabric • 4. Double-check your layout

31. Special Layouts • Napped fabric • Lay pieces in same direction • Nap to run up the garment • Plaids • Even or uneven • Use dominant line of the plaid for the center front or back

32. Stripes • Use a without-nap layout • Dominant stripe in middle of front and back • Directional prints • Use with-nap layout • Border prints • Place pieces on crosswise grain • Place others where they will fit

33. Cutting and Marking Fabric • Cut accurately • Use bent-handled shears • Cut directionally with the grain line • Follow correct cutting line on multi-sized pattern • Cut carefully around notches

34. Leave pattern pieces pinned to the fabric until you are ready to sew • Save all fabric scraps • To test marking methods, stitches, pressing temperatures

35. What to Mark • Lines and symbols are important guides • Mark: • Darts, pleats, tucks, dots, placements lines for buttons, button holes, pockets, any trim

36. Marking Methods • Fabric marking pens • Contain ink that removes water or evaporates from fabric • Tracing wheel and dressmaker’s tracing paper • Papers that make permanent marks • Papers that make removable marks

37. Tailors Chalk • Mark on the wrong side • Can be easily brushed off so handle carefully

38. Summary • Pattern information and instructions are provided on the envelope, guide sheet, and tissue pattern pieces. • Body measurements should be compared to those on apattern envelope to see if any adjustments are needed

39. Fabric may need straightening, preshrinking, or pressing • The cutting layout shows how to arrange pattern pieces on fabric

40. Each pattern piece should be placed on the proper grain line before pinning in place. • Bent handled shears are used to cut out pattern pieces

41. Construction lines and symbols can be marked with a fabric marking pen, tracing wheel and dressmaker’s tracing paper or tailor’s chalk