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Wine-culture’s history in Carpathian basin Dr. J. Csuták wineknight LEONARDO MEETING

Wine-culture’s history in Carpathian basin Dr. J. Csuták wineknight LEONARDO MEETING ÓZD, 2014. ÁPR. 11-13. Motto :. Wine-culture ’s history in Carpathian Basin The beginnings. 3th century. b . C. – Celtics: they probably / surely produced wine

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Wine-culture’s history in Carpathian basin Dr. J. Csuták wineknight LEONARDO MEETING

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  1. Wine-culture’s history in Carpathian basin Dr. J. Csutákwineknight LEONARDO MEETING ÓZD, 2014. ÁPR. 11-13

  2. Motto:

  3. Wine-culture’s historyinCarpathianBasinThe beginnings • 3th century. b. C. – Celtics: theyprobably / surely produced wine • Roman Empire: advanced wine-culture; • Pannonian (Sirmium Region) wine specialities in Rome temporary prohibition of vine cultivation in Pannonia (92 a. C.) • The Magyars in Old Country: (5th c.): two main drinks: milk, wine • Treaty with blood of Magyar-tribes: common drinking of blood dropped into wine • Wine: ancient Hungarian world originated from the early land of Vitisvinifera

  4. Wine-culture’s history in Carpathian BasinBasis of the wine production • Bisantian Encyclopaedia of Suidas (IX. c.): • Advanced grape and wine culture in Balaton highland • No epidemic diseases of grape occurred till the 19th c. • Frost periods proved to be getting over on the sheltered hills • The Magyar’s Conquest: • Magyars received advanced grape- and wine-culture in the Carpathian basin • Three pillars of the Hungarian wine culture: • Traditions from Inner Asia • Pannonian (Balaton-highland) traditions • Expertise of monks (Benedictines) arrived from Burgundy, Anjou and Italy

  5. Wine-culture’s history in Carpathian Basin12-13th century – The Árpád Dynasty • King St. Steven, Árpádian Dynasty: • donation of large wine-territories • formation of large feudalistic landed estates • 1006.: St. Steven’s charter: rights for selling of alcoholic drinks • Council in Strigonium: Ban pubs • REGULATED WINE-ECONOMY, GENERAL OUTDOOR WINE CONSUMPTION • 12th c.: settling of German inhabitants: • wine culture import • 13th c.: wine consumption is not only a lord’s privilege, but villains also were allowed to drink, as well • (ninth!) • King IV. Bela: made general French way of grape cultivation and French barrel size 1271. First wine communities

  6. Wine-culture’s history in Carpathian Basin14th century – The Anjou Dynasty • Wine export from: Southland, St. Gheorge-mount, North-Hungary • Wine was one of the most important export goods • Kings from Anjou Dynasty growing technology developed citizens of towns became owner of grape estates wage labourers in grape cultures • City of Sopron: centre of exports towardsWestern Europe Louis the Great: wine export towardsNorth and North-East started Grape varieties: occidental or Hungarian (Pontic)ones (furmint, bakator, balafánt, csomorika, gohér, etc.) There were no traces of blue-grapes

  7. Wine-culture’s history in Carpathian BasinThe Árpád- and Anjou Dinasties Winegrowingregions Linguisticmemento: Lugas Growingtechnology: „rendtölültetötszőllő” means: grapesplantedinrow 9. Pozsony 5. Ruszt-Sopron 10. Mátra-v. 6. Buda 4.Somló 2. Balaton-v. 11. Érmellék 12.Küküllői 3. Szekszárd 7. Arad 8. Baranyai 1.Szerémség

  8. Wine-culture’s history in Carpathian Basin14th century – King Matthias – Golden period AMONG KInGS FROM DIFfERENT DyNASTIES ONLY Matthias stabilized wine production and market. Wines from Szerémség Region (aszú!) exported to Poland – wine-war between North- and South part of theHungarian Kingdom 1482. King Matthias prohibited wine exportation from Szerémség Region to Poland King Mathias exported Hungarian wines to Russia and As barter, imported fur. New wine-sortiments from Burgund and Campany War against Albany – importation of blue wine sortiment– red wine! 4 5 3 2 1 5 6 Wine-yardS around the towns; developed wine ORIGINE-protection; strict regulation

  9. Wine-culture’s history in Carpathian Basin16th century – The Country broken intothree parts Military consignments to Netherland and Poland • Turk likes wine only stealthily • Turk did not prohibited wine production, but put a tax • Wars made many wine-yards to waste, and: • Turkish occupation made market dubious • Came to the front • Pozsony • Sopron • Tokay-Region • In Transylvania: during the reign of Princes G. Bethlen and Gh. Rákóczi prosperous grape- and wine production 1541

  10. Wine-culture’s history in Carpathian Basin16-17th century – Characteristics for the era • 1565: Austrian customs – except: wines from Sopron, Ruszt, Pozsony • Remained export possibility toward Poland, only • „Aszú-mode” – principal wine: Balaton-Highland, Szerémség • Leadership of Tokay from1550’s • Around 1650: in Oremus wine-yard of Zs. Lorántffy special kinds of old Tokay and „szamorodni” • The first Old Tokay registered by SzepsiLaczkóMáté produced from blue-wine called Purcsin • Nomination: • In the beginnings: „Tállyai”, • From the reign of Prince II. Rákóczi F. „Hegyaljai”

  11. Wine-culture’s history in Carpathian Basin17th century – Under the Habsburgs • Hungarian wine exports to Netherland and Scandinavia • Spanish war of succession push out of French and Spanish wines from England • Russia under I. Catherine and II. Peter • Wine export intensified • Parallel to barter, purchasing of wines for cash also started • I. Catherine: significant decrease of Tokay-wine customs • Expenses of Wars of Independence directed by both Thököly and then Prince Rákóczi mainly covered by wine export toward North and East.

  12. Wine-culture’s history in Carpathian Basin17-18th century – Characteristics for the era § • Legal and trade regulations • 1655. XXXI Act. (confirmed by: 1723. CXVIII. Act.): • „All those who replace top quality wines with wines from more inferior wine-yards and districts … and sell those under the name of the top quality should be punished with immediate loss of all their wine” • 1665: Parliamentary Decree No. 79.: separate gathering of overriped grapes („aszú”) obligatory • Queen Mary-Theresa: • Confirmed exemption fromdecima-paying in all region of Hungarian Kingdom, while • Customs of wine-exports to Bavaria became twelvefold of Austrian ones • From 1775 obligatory tie-up in Danubian wine transport: quantity of Austrian wines must be reached that of the Hungarian ones § § §

  13. Wine-culture’s history in Carpathian Basin18th century – Characteristics for the era • Legal and trade regulations • 1772: As Polish-Galicia became Austrian territory, customs ring of Habsburg perpetual territories closed for Hungarian wines • Poland changed Hungarian wines to French ones • Domestic overproduction crisis – disinterested producers, quality deterioration, negative bidding

  14. Wine-culture’s history in Carpathian Basin19th century S. Széchenyi: „Goodness of wine will be determined by its lastingness as well as its transportability from one site to the other one and the good taste of great and solvent customers… Neither Rhine nor French Producers etc…. are looking for customers, but their representatives do it. Such internal persons between the Producer and Costumer are the most absent persons for us...I suggest for all producers to make better our wines and roads…do not we wait like a lazy and let’s take great pains pretending the custom difficulties never should be widened. In any way, acting this way we can help ourselves…” Great Hungariansintheagronomy and winery: Gh. Festetics, J. Nagtváthy, F. Pethe, L. Mitterpacher, J.Fábián 1816: thefirstHungarianfruit-crushing and stalk removing machine 1826: twin-screwwine-press 1836: Schamps Ferenc: thefirstHungarianperiodical of winery 1836: HungarianEconomicAssociation(OMGE)

  15. Wine-culture’s history in Carpathian Basin19th century • the 1848 Hungarian War of Independence: • Cease of inner customs system • Help to increase wine-market • 20th. Sep. 1850.: • Open direction for introduction of tax for wine consumption • 1853: EntzFerenc: Practical Educational • School for Gardeners – Winecelar’s School • 1857: Winery-booklets • however, interrupted between • 1945-1990, it is still living today • SzemereBertalan: • During his compelled stay in Paris • he created market for • Hungarian wines in England

  16. Wine-culture’s history in Carpathian Basin19th century – self-organizations, slight recovery Cellar societies : • 1842: Ruszt; 1846: Sopron; 1857: Szekszárd; 1866 ésutána: Bazin, Gellérthegy, Pozsony, Köveskál, Szentbékálla, Balatonfüred, Gyöngyös, Esztergom, Gödöllő… • Minor technical „revolution”: • Soil cultivation using horse- or bullock-pulled equipment became general • In the wineries: berriermachines, crusher-berrier equipment, crushers, iron-presses, pumps, filters, domestic bottlers

  17. Wine-culture’s history in Carpathian Basin19th century – On the way of development 1867: Austro-Hungarian conciliation: however, there were great possibilities in the wine market, progress in winery remained on a low level • Different economic advantages were given to producers and wine-dealers • Tax-free installation of a new plant • Loans to producers for new plantations • Area of grape-yards has grown, but • Technics and level of professional knowledge did not went after it; progressivity was to be improved • OMGE (National Winery Section) managed by F. Entz: • Study on status of Hungarian viticulture and winery Entz Ferenc

  18. Wine-culture’s history in Carpathian Basin19th century – taking stock of bequests F. Entz’s experiences: Instead of some progress: • Grape areas were neglected or their cultivation seemed to be unsatisfactory • Results: grapes and wines with weak qualities • In a significant part of producers equipment necessary for grape processing and storage vessels were incomplete • Abroad publicity of Hungarian wines was on a low level • Distribution and demand of Hungarian wines were not proportional to possibilities on the Word Market • RESULTS OF MEASURES: Hungarian wine-wonder • Grape producing area of Hungary in 1875 amounted 425,3 thousand Hectares • Wine production in 12 years average was 4 Million Hectolitre; 20% of it exported

  19. Wine-culture’s history in Carpathian BasinEnd of 19th century – establishmentsystem • Independent department of winery in the Ministry of Agriculture • Haigh level of organization and structure • 1875.: National Institute for Wine Qualifying quality control/protection • 1879.: Winery Section of OMGE: • winery registers for protection of producers with more than 100 HL • From 1884 y. National Winery Registers: data of 1,5 Million HL of wine • 1879.: Strict financial checking of wine stock (valid till 1971. when Socialist Government put it invalid)

  20. Wine-culture’s history in Carpathian BasinEnd of 19th century – education • 1880: Introduction of advanced public special education • 1890: five public schools for wine-cellar education • Five districts for roaming teachers in the centres of wine areas

  21. Wine-culture’s history in Carpathian BasinEnd of 19th c. – From cloudless sky… epidemies, regulations • Inspite of all these, introduced epidemics: • 864: Powdery mildew • 1875: Phylloxera • 1881: downy mildew • Wine adulterations regulation to interrupt • 1893: XXIII. Act.: against both adulterators and middlemen • 1895: Wine-community Act: origin protection on the new basis • 1896: Central Station of Experimental Viticulture and Ampeology • 1897: Wine-ControlStation in every districts and municipalities (446) for liquidation false wine manufacturing • Customs officer system: Σ 5000 officers

  22. Wine-culture’s history in Carpathian Basin19th century – Phylloxera - map • Battle against Phylloxera: • J. MiklósváriMiklós • Utilisationof sulphur mined in Transylvania • OMGE Istvántelek Estate: Experimental Station of Protection against Phylloxera – low-prised stocks • Replantation of extented areas • J. Mathiász • Mád- • Kecskemét- • Tokaj-hegyalja Tragedy ofabout 10000 people, at the same, time professional renovation of viticulture

  23. Wine-culture’s history in Carpathian Basinafter the turn of 19-20th century • Subsidy for farmers (expanding of market, stabilisation • 1901: Budafok – Hungarian Royal National Wine-cellar Course, Faculty of Roaming Wine-cellars • 1901: Budafok – Hall for Wine sale by auction From 1901 Hungarian National Wine-Halls in: London, Munich, Stockholm, Wien, Cracow • 1902, Budafok: opening of Hungarian Royal Museum for Wine

  24. Wine-culture’s history in Carpathian Basin20th century – wars, politics • Trianon: • 1/3 of grape-yards and 2/3 of home market lost • 1920: Our traditional markets (Germany, Austria, Poland, Czech) became closed for Hungarian wines; custom barriers • 1922. Monumental Wine exhibition and Market in Budapest • Custom discount: weak improvement • 1929-: Economic world crisis • our earlier wine export 500.000 HL • 1933:reduced to 200.000 HL (=10% of the previous export level) • II. World War: • Buildings, equipment, infrastructure totally were destroyed • Carrying off of experts and valuable equipment to abroad were the most important cause of the paralyse of production

  25. Wine-culture’s history in Carpathian Basin20th century – some statistics • 1930: From the total wine production • red – 10,5 %; shiller and rose 27%; white-wine: 62,5 % • Quality structure: • Top Tokay – 0,02 %; • Premiun quality with mark of origin– 9,6 %; • Quality wine - 48,48 % • Table wine - 41,9 % • Wine-structure: • <1 ha farmers : 95,4 % - field proportion: 63 % • 1-5 ha: 3,9 % - 22 % • >5 ha: 0,7 % - 15 % • Storage capacity: 7 Million HL. – in 85 % in the farmer’s ownership

  26. Wine-culture’s history in Carpathian Basin20th century – the last 50 years (1) • 1938-48: notwithstanding the war, dynamic development continued 1949. Soviet occupation • Everything cut, got ruined • The nationalization of wine-yards (80.000 ha) • Expropriations • Deportation • Aggressive collectivization • Personal and sectoral tragedies – 60.000 ha excellent wine-yard became extinct • 1949-1959: • Suppress of private ownership • Viticulture and winery separated • Ban National Association of Grape-farmers and Wine-yard Communities • 1952-65: Constant lack of wine; previously well operated wine-law has broken • State buying up of wine: for 38 % and 40% of 1948 prices (in 1958 and 1960 years, respectively)

  27. Wine-culture’s history in Carpathian Basin20th century – the last 50 years (2) • 1961-70: 35.000 Ha planted grape of 60.000 Ha was settled on unfit fields; before 10 years of their age about 30.000 Ha died out • 1949-70: About 40.000 Ha of historical grape fields died out; aspects of regions changed almost irrevocably • 1966-69: plenty of grape; farmer’s dissatisfaction against monopolized state buying up of the yield • 1969-85: Previously ban development of winery activity became possible for state organizations • Well educated experts, BUT! • 2/3 of newly established wineries were unsuitable frompoint of view of international expectations and competition • Regional disproportionateness formed in the Country level • Only the bulk-wine production dominated • Export: 60 % toward Soviet Union and its satellites; 15% toward the Western market with a high standard

  28. Wine-culture’s history in Carpathian Basin20th century – the last 50 years (3) Increasing of state intervention • Order No. 36/1970: centuries old quality and origin protection were cancelled • 1980-89: • 50.000 Ha planted • 150.000 cut down … and we started from here!

  29. Thank you for your attention

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