Asia Trip – April 2005

1. Asia Trip – April 2005 Cast of Characters Sherry Manages the IMC team, meets with Hui-Yun, Eve and Minoru and then travels with Jeff and Jana through China… and, is your host for this adventure story Hui-Yun Manages the Field Marketing programs in Asia/ Japan for MTBU on our team and her Auntie recommended the tailor (it’s her fault!) Jana Manages the Media Relations team worldwide and traveled an entire week with JUST a backpack! Eve Manages the Field Marketing programs in Asia for STE on our team and is an expert tour guide WW Amy works with Eve. Jeff Jana’s son, lives in Kunming teaching English and provides excellent touring service, translation and fashion advice Oops! No photo Minoru Manages the Field Marketing programs in Japan for STE on our team

2. Asia Trip – April 2005 Saturday April 9 On Saturday morning, I woke up in San Francisco ready for the trip to Asia. Two weeks of traveling in China, Japan, and Taiwan on business, and then back to China for a week of vacation. In my typical style of doing too much and utilizing all available time (and up to the very last minute), I finished packing and then set off for a few last-minute purchases. I walked through Chinatown on my way to Union Square and purchased a tiny portable CD-ROM/MP3 player to take along and to use for my Mandarin language CDs. I then bought a TUMI shoulder bag which was a really great thing to have along on the trip. Next, I got a blender for Craig, which was a real act of love… but that’s another story entirely. Blender in hand, I continued on to purchase 2 blouses for the trip… all this by 11AM. Rushing back, I pulled together the last of my things and with suitcase, TUMI bag, computer and sustenance for the trip made for the bus… to BART… to the airport… to Asia! Sunday Through Friday April 10-15th I arrived in Shanghai on Sunday at 6PM and breezed through customs. There was a car and driver waiting for me and we departed for the hotel. After checking in, I went up to unpack and to try to stay awake for another 3 hours. I sat down on the bed and was shocked that it was rock hard… we’re not talking “firm mattress” by US standards… we’re talking about unyielding board-like substance covered with some fabric. That having been said, I actually got used to it over the weeks. The tradeshow and meetings occupied the week, and a good week it was. On Tuesday, a tailor that Hui-Yun’s aunt uses and recommends, came to the hotel to deliver some things that she made for Hui-Yun and her daughter. They were lovely and so visiting the tailor’s shop was definitely on the agenda for me too. On Wednesday, we went to the tailor (and yes, I ordered several tops and a jacket with shoes to match!) and then ventured out to the “Shanghai Night Market” or otherwise affectionately known as the “fake market”, where all sorts of imitation designer bags and watches are for sale. There are levels of imitations ranging from AAA and AA (the best imitations) all the way through C and D levels… where names are misspelled and things are relatively poorly put together. There are also imitation sportswear items like puma shoes and North Face WindStopper and Schoeller fleece jackets. Of course, I had to get a fleece that had Schoeller embroidered on the sleeve… that has to account for the fact that I didn’t negotiate very well (first purchase of the trip) and paid USD $50 for something I probably could have gotten for almost half that. I was determined then to make it up on all future purchases! I was glad that I bought the fleece in the end, not only because it said “Schoeller” on the sleeve, but also because it kept me warm during several higher altitude parts of the trip! Thursday evening, Hui-Yun and I went back to the market and browsed around, but not before we had Peking duck pizza for dinner (yum!).

3. Friday April 15th Off to Japan! I flew from Shanghai to Osaka and took the train to Kyoto and then the local rail on to Uji, which is 20 minutes south of Kyoto proper. The cherry blossoms were still in bloom though on their last legs… even so, it was a beautiful time to visit the area. The hotel is called Hanayashiki and is located directly on the shore of the Uji river. On the shore of the Uji river with cherry blossoms. The “Tale of Genji” was a historic literary work written about 1000 years ago and the last 10 chapters (of the 54) take place in Uji… it plays an important role for the town. The author was Murasaki-Shikibu, the daughter of a middle-class nobleman. The tale is known as one of Japan’s foremost literary masterpieces Hashihime – the Princess at the Bridge, a primary character in the “Tale of Genji” On Friday afternoon, I arrived at the hotel and realized that no one spoke English. I even had trouble FINDING the hotel (despite maps) because the hotel name was not written in English characters outside… yikes! I eventually spoke the hotel’s name to someone passing by and they pointed. The room was of typical Japanese Ryokan style. It had a large room with tatami mats and a low table. I was greeted with tea and then unpacked a few things. At night, they move the table to the side and unroll a futon for sleeping. Views from my room

4. Friday Through Sunday April 15-17th cont. On Friday evening, I strolled the streets of Uji and the shore of the Uji river. My first stop was at Byodoin Temple, originally built in 1052. The Phoenix hall was built a year later. The landscape is lovely, with a sandy beach around the Phoenix Hall. Byodoin Temple, in front of the Phoenix hall Saturday morning I set out for Kyoto. I bought an all-day bus pass and walked about as far as I rode on the bus. On the way to the Kodaiji Temple, my first stop of the day, I encountered these lovely women - Geisha in training. You are really lucky to be able to catch a glimpse of them in Kyoto. Geisha in Kyoto

5. Friday Through Sunday April 15-17th cont. Kodaiji Temple My first visit on Saturday was to the Kodaiji Temple, formerly known as Kodaijusho-Zenji Temple, which is located in the Higashimyama mountains of eastern Kyoto, just south of the Yasaka Shrine. I was enchanted by this place on my last trip to Kyoto (during the fall foliage) and although it is beautiful… it didn’t have quite the same magic for me on this trip. Heian Shrine and Gardens I then walked quite some distance to the Heian Shrine and gardens. The cherry blossoms here were still at their prime (probably because they are somewhat protected within the garden) and were magnificent!

6. Friday Through Sunday April 15-17th cont. After the Heian Shrine and gardens, I took a bus to Ginkakuji Temple, or also known as the “Silver Pavillion”. Ginkakuji is a Zen Temple and was established in 1482 by Ashikaga Yoshimasa, the eighth Muromachi Shogunate. Ginkakuji Temple Finally, I visited one of the most famous Temples in Kyoto, the “Golden Pavilion”… or more formally, Rokuon-Ji Temple Rokuon-Ji Temple (the Golden Pavilion) I returned to the hotel and enjoyed a nice soak in the baths (baths are for soaking and relaxing, not for getting clean… one washes before getting into the tub) and then had wonderful and relaxing Japanese style dinner, typically served at Ryokans.

7. Friday Through Sunday April 15-17th cont. Sunday morning, I strolled around the town of Uji and along the shores of the Uji river. Kosho-Ji Temple on the far bank of the river, across from the hotel, was so lovely and serene… set into the hills. Tea roasting in Uji Uji is known for its tea and along one of the streets I was able to see it being roasted Kosho-Ji Temple And finally, saying goodbye to Uji and heading for the Shinkansen (fast train) to Tokyo… I took a last look at the lovely bridges and river.

8. Monday Through Wednesday April 18-20th I spent the next three days in Hachioji, meeting with Minoru and having lots of 1:1 meetings with Japan customer team management. Monday evening, I was on my own and roved around Hachioji… especially the basement of the Sego Department store. Most department stores in Japan dedicate their basement levels to food stalls, where one can find tasty tidbits of all kinds. Of particular interest to me, were the sushi stalls. Needless to say, that’s where I had dinner. On Tuesday evening, Minoru and I had dinner with our local contact at our worldwide PR agengy. They took me to a wonderful restaurant, but was I surprised when I found out it was western style food… no sake? No sushi?... Yikes! It was wonderful though. Thursday Through Saturday April 21-23rd Having left Japan, I flew to Taiwan to (FINALLY) meet Eve in person. We’ve worked together wonderfully the last year, without ever having met face to face. Thursday was the press conference in Taipei and then Friday was the customer event in Kaoshung. Both went very well. Amy works with Eve in Taiwan to support the field marketing programs in Asia. At the customer event Amy, Sherry and Eve at press event Even when the “official” business part of the trip was over, the festivities were not. Eve and I spent Saturday together. The weather didn’t cooperate all that well, but after a nice breakfast (noodle soup) and a quick stop at the local farmers market for bananas, oranges, and some fruit previously unknown to me, we headed up to the Yammi (sp?) Mountain for some hiking. No photos from there, since it was totally foggy. After that, we were off to the Jade market, a full-body Chinese massage and then a shampoo and haircut (best shampoo and cut I’ve ever had!) Finally, after a quick visit to Eve’s family home, we were off to dinner… Italian this night. before after

9. Sunday Through Tuesday April 24-26th So now begins the vacation…. I flew into Shanghai and was met by Jana and Jeff at the airport. We drove back to the city and directly to the tailor. I had my fitting and then we started in on Jana… this is where Jeff’s skills in translation and fashion advice became obvious. At the Tailor’s shop And on to Hangzhou… After the important decisions were made, and orders placed at the tailor, we set out on the road to Hangzhou. About a 2 ½ hour drive from Shanghai, we arrived in the evening and checked into a very nice hotel only a few blocks away from Si Hu (West Lake). There are many “West Lakes” in China, but this one is the original, and is a resort location for Chinese, more so than for foreign travelers. Much to my delight, the hotel was located right next to the night market. It was my favorite of the markets and had all the obligatory fake bags and watches, but also had a smattering of antiques, chops, jade and other treasures. A “chop” is usually made of stone or wood and is used as an official signature in China. It is engraved on the bottom with the owner’s name and is used with a red paste ink as a stamp. Some of them are simple and some are quite elaborate with incredible carvings. Since Eve had created a lovely Chinese name for me, I was ready when I found just the right chop. In China, most people choose an English name in addition to their given Chinese names, so I see no reason that we shouldn’t do the same. I am currently learning the correct way to write my name (characters and order to write the individual strokes) thanks to Eve and her patience in writing out a guide for me! In addition to the chop, other purchases included two small jade discs carved with dragons. Jana hit the jackpot and purchased scarves, bags, slippers, pillow covers and… Jana, am I forgetting anything so far?

10. Sunday Through Tuesday April 24-26th, cont. West Lake in Hangzhou… Saturday morning we headed to the lake and spent the day exploring. We took a small boat to an island within the lake. Then walked along the shore. The boats View from an island within the lake Lake view from shore Views from the Island within the lake Lilies on lake within West Lake

11. Sunday Through Tuesday April 24-26th, cont. West Lake in Hangzhou… Temple on the Hill The gardens on the shore of the lake and on the islands within the lake are absolutely lovely. Along the shore, we walked through a rock garden. Jeff’s “self-expressed-as-rock” was unknowing really good! Gardens on Shore Jeff Expressed as Rock We came across the wine museum and tasting room, and this was our initiation into the famed “yellow wine” of the area. More like a very dry port or sherry, it was quite lovely and we decided to purchase some to bring back. “Yellow wine” 1st Encounter

12. Sunday Through Tuesday April 24-26th, cont. Hangzhou Hotel Balcony for Breakfast… the Lake is out there, but so is the Fog At this point, I would like to mention something that seemed to become an ongoing trend and pre-occupation… finding an ATM machine that worked. In China, credit cards are not accepted widely… even in some hotels, we needed to pay cash, so the ATM’s played a central role in our existence. Not all work the way they should. Some will give you some money sometimes and not at other times. This is, of course, even if you have sufficient funds in your account. Some ATMs were more consistent than others… they NEVER gave us cash. Oh well… Bank of China was the best bet, but only for 2000 RMB (approx. $240 USD at the time.) So, Tuesday morning, before the buddhas, Jeff and I ventured out in search of internet cafes and funding. Success (eventually) with both. By the large Buddhist Temple in Hangzhou, along the river, one finds many carved Buddhas. The “Laughing Buddha” is the most famous. Monks carved these Buddhas in the rock as part of their meditation. Hangzhou… the “laughing buddha” After the Buddhas, it was on to Suzhou… by bus. This was the first of several bus excursions, and really quite nice. I was relieved to find that this was a non-smoking bus. Just about EVERYONE smokes in China… the government supports it even, with cigarette mfg monopolies. Shocking. Carved Buddhas like these dot the Hillside

13. Tuesday Through Thursday April 26-28th. Suzhou… Wednesday Suzhou is known for its lovely gardens. We went to the “Master of the Nets” and the “Humble Administrators” gardens, and they were indeed lovely. Wednesday morning we headed out for some dumplings for brunch, preceded by a bit of shopping. We visited the Master of the Nets and then walked along the streets in search of ATM machines and cell phone stores for Jeff (a refill of minutes) and me (any way to “unlock” my AT&T SIM card?) That evening, we decided to take a canal boat tour. Suzhou is a “moated city” and so the boat trip brought us full circle through the canal around the city and was a great experience. Lights danced upon the waters… Master of the Nets Lantern under the Bridge

14. Tuesday Through Thursday April 26-28th. Suzhou… Thursday Prior to our evening boat trip, we had a rushed dinner, which turned out to be the only meal that really didn’t sit well with me. Thursday, though I wasn’t sick, I wasn’t eating either. That didn’t stop me from enjoying the Humble Administrators Garden and then the Suzhou Embroidery Research Institute… though I realize that I didn’t take many photos. Jeff at Humble Administrators Garden The Suzhou Embroidery Institute was incredible. You can’t really imagine the beautiful artwork these women produce… until you see them in person… and then you’ll want to buy something and take it home with you… The hotel in Suzhou wasn’t located near the center of town, and wasn’t very convenient in general (did I mention how hard the mattresses are in China?), however… it had a nice courtyard in front and had bats in the evenings… what an entertaining show! Jana’s Embroidery The first “sighting” of these lovely embroidery works was on Thursday. We spent so much time in the showroom that the staff was sure we were moving in! There was much discussion… to buy or not to buy… that was the question… and IF to buy… was it this? Or that? Friday morning, after continued debate the final decision (that they both simply MUST come home with Jana and with me) was reached in the car on the way over. Sherry’s Embroidery

15. Friday April 29th. Zhouzhuang Zhouzhuang is an ancient water city between Suzhou and Shanghai. We stopped for a few hours and though the weather did not cooperate, we enjoyed our time there very much. Zhouzuang is over 900 years old, and the typical style and features of the town remain unchanged. All the houses in the town are built by streams with sidewalks alongside and stone bridges to interconnect them. We started with lunch and Zhouzhuang beer, which was second only to Dali beer (but I’m getting ahead of myself.) It began raining, and unfortunately, we left 2 out of 3 of our umbrellas in the car. Naturally, some were available for purchase near by. Jeff at Lunch in Zhouzhuang We took a short canal tour by boat. Our boat person indicated that for a small additional fee she would sing to us… we decided it was worth it and I found her singing to be wonderfully soothing. From our Boat Along the Canals of Zhouzhuang

16. Friday April 29th. The Trip Back to Shanghai… After several hours in Zhouzhuang, we piled into the car and headed back to Shanghai. It was during the ride back that an interesting idea materialized... I was supposed to head back to San Francisco on Sunday May 1st while Jana and Jeff continued their travels on to Kunming and beyond. I asked what they were planning for the next week and was told of wonderful places in the Yunnan province near Tibet and the Himalyas, as well as Kunming itself (where Jeff lives) known as the city of eternal springtime. Hmmm, and I was going to miss that? I expressed a heartfelt desire to go too. More a passing “whine” than a serious thought… until… Jeff and Jana both said, “well then come!”… errr? Come? Could I? It was one of the times that forces of the universe aligned and allowed everything to fall into place… United had room on all flights back to SF a week later and both my sweetheart as well as my manager were supportive of the idea. Quick!!!... change flights, book an additional flight to and from Kunming! Hotels! Buses! And I was set for an additional week of adventure… thank you Jana and Jeff for allowing me to experience the next week with you as well. Back in Shanghai The Street where the Tailor is Located First stop back in Shanghai, was of course the tailor… fittings and adjustments and ordering and trading. A jacket I ordered turned out looking terrible on me… I wasn’t sure what I was going to do, until Jana slipped it on and it looked magical on her! A nip at the collar and she was set. At that point, I tried on a top she had ordered and decided to order 2 of them myself, because it looked so good. Jeff continued to translate, offer fashion advice and then caution us that we really shouldn’t have completely identical wardrobes! Then off for a sushi dinner in Pudong. I was starting to catch a cold, so I wasn’t up for the walk along the Bund… next trip.

17. Saturday April 30th. Shanghai We were, of course, still preoccupied with finding ATM machines. We had plans to meet Eve’s niece Katherine for lunch. Katherine also works for Agilent (in Shanghai.) We went shopping first for silk scarves, and having made some wonderful purchases, were off to a local restaurant and our second encounter with the famed “yellow wine”… this time a 16 year old. It was so good that we wanted to buy a bottle to take back. It doesn’t come in bottles though… it comes in large casks and they sell it only in large plastic buckets. So yes, we did it… bought a bucket and transported it all over with us during the rest of the trip. Actually, we left the bigger bucket at Jeff’s apartment and took smaller buckets with us along the way! Jana at lunch with newly purchased scarf AND a glass of yellow wine… you can’t see the wine in the picture, just the smile that came from it! After lunch, we decided we’d go to the Shanghai museum… we actually did make it there, eventually… about 5 minutes after it closed. The afternoon was still great as we wandered around Renmin Square. Along the way to the museum… Jeff had just finished sticking out his tongue as I snapped a fabulous picture of him (despite his best efforts!)

18. Monday through Wednesday May2-4th Kunming to Dali Sunday was a travel day, from Shanghai to Kunming. I took an earlier flight since the flight Jana and Jeff were on was sold out. That turned out to be good fortune for me. My flight was on time and I arrived in Kunming mid-afternoon. Their flight (which was due to leave 1 ½ hours after mine was delayed for hours. One of Jeff’s friends met me at the airport and helped me get settled into the hotel. Still nursing a slight cold, I was happy to have the afternoon and evening to rest. Monday was also a travel day. There were no flight or train seats available from Kunming to Dali (our next stop) and so I went by bus. The taxi driver took us to the wrong bus station and we sprinted to the correct location with just moments to spare. What should have been a 5 hour trip wound up being about 7 ½ hours. Jana and Jeff met me at the other end and so began our adventure in Dali. Dali is set by the mountains and on a beautiful lake. The old city is full of shops and cobble-stone streets, with a large gate on the south side and another to the north. View from my hotel room in Dali Dali old city South Gate The first evening, aside from our search for functional ATM machines (see the trend?), we browsed the old city and had dinner at a great café, upstairs. The meal was fantastic with a special local dish, Bai fried chicken, and other regional specialties… including Dali beer, which was a favorite. Tuesday morning we headed up the mountain on a gondola and enjoyed the views. We threw ancient coins into this pond, but I missed the shots… oh well. On the Mountain near Dali

19. Monday through Wednesday May2-4th, cont. Dali… After the trip up the mountain, Jeff needed to get to an internet café for a while, and so Jana and I went to the Bai dance center to experience the traditional “Three Tea” dance ceremony of the Bai minority people. It was really very enjoyable. I couldn’t convince Jana to join them on stage at the end, though. The Bai are referred to as the “white people”… not because of their color, but because of their preference for white in their architecture and clothing. Their buildings are typically white with hand-painted pictures in black and other colors. Bai dancers performing Bai dance center in Dali The taxi driver who drove us to Dali old town from the airport and bus terminal was very nice. We decided to have her take us around on Tuesday as well. When she picked us up after the Bai dance performance, she had a snack for us… savory local Dali “Babas”… sort of a street vendor fried bread with either savory meat or sweet bean paste. Very yummy. We saved some for Jeff and picked him up before heading to the boat dock for our lake cruise… The Lake at Dali After the day’s activities, we headed back to the hotel and arranged for in-room massages… 1 hour for USD $5! Superb. On the boat in Dali

20. Wednesday Through Friday May4-6th Lijiang… Our taxi driver proposed that for a modest amount above and beyond what bus fare would cost, she would drive us to our next destination… Lijiang. It turned out to be a good decision. The trip was comfortable, fast and and the views were terrific. Taxi and driver from Dali Lijiang hotel courtyard The old city of Lijiang is a maze of small canals and since our hotel was located there, we needed to walk in. We stayed at an old typical styled hotel with a nice courtyard. After a nice lunch along the creek, we explored the MuFu Mansion in Lijiang. The reign of Mu in Lijian lasted 470 years through the Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties in central China. Chief Mu owned the most property, and was widely respected by the Naxi People of Lijiang. MuFu Palace or “Mu’s Mansion” in Lijiang

21. Wednesday Through Friday May4-6th Lijiang, cont.… More shots from the MuFu Mansion in Lijiang. After walking around the palace grounds, we headed back through the streets of Lijiang and got tickets for a performance by the famous Naxi Orchestra that evening. The Naxi ancient music has been preserved and the orchestra is well known (even performing in the US) Jana and I were to order dinner while Jeff got the tickets… somehow even though we had menus printed in English, the “corn on the cob” didn’t look like what we’d get back home! And the special Lijiang wine?... 45% alcohol… yikes! But after the first sip, it really (REALLY) starts to grow on you! MuFu Mansion with mountains YuYin Bldg (Music Hall) Corn on the cob?... I think not. The local wine

22. Wednesday Through Friday May4-6th Lijiang, cont.… Thursday morning, we set out early for breakfast and then embarked on our trip to Tiger Leaping Gorge. The morning was magnificent, and the view of the mountain (Jade Dragon Snow Mountain) was incredible… Lijiang hotel courtyard (with bats) Morning in Lijiang Tiger Leaping Gorge is a beautiful place. At the front end of the gorge, there is a rock mid-river where supposedly a tiger, being hunted and pursued, made a daring leap across. Seems to me that it really needed to be a big tiger AND during the low-water season. We decided to proceed further on to Middle Tiger Leaping Gorge, where we were set to hike down to the river and then back up again. We were approached by a man who offered his services (for a modest fee) to escort us. We decided to do this, and were we glad!!! We most probably would never have found the path down, let alone the way back up. I didn’t have the right shoes (since I didn’t know I would even BE here) but made it none-the-less. It was well worth the slipping, sliding and panting along the way. Tiger Leaping Gorge Guide

23. Wednesday Through Friday May4-6th Middle Tiger Leaping Gorge The hike took about 3 hours total and was absolutely beautiful… when we reached the river, we walked out on some rocks to enjoy the fruits of our efforts. There was one rock that jutted out into the river and had a cool mist from the water. I didn’t take the chance scaling down to it, with the slippery shoes I had on. Middle Tiger Leaping Gorge Almost down to the river We made it!... Back up at the top again!

24. Friday Through Sunday May6-8th Zhongdien The bus ride from Lijiang to Zhongdien was aweful… it was a smoking bus and EVERYONE was smoking. It was also pretty cold and foggy going through the mountains, so having the windows wide open wasn’t an option… I eventually found the right balance between suffocating and freezing. It was also a 2 chicken bag trip (two people were carrying bags with one or more live chickens inside!!!) We made it!... Back at the top The town of Zhongdien was definitely the most remote place we visited on the entire trip… resembling more of a rustic frontier environment than the tourist mecca it aspires to be. The Chinese government has renamed it “ShangriLa” in an effort to promote it, but it hasn’t quite gotten the exposure of Dali or Lijiang as of yet. Pigs and cows seem to roam the streets freely. We met up with some of Jeff’s friends who also teach in China. One was actually teaching English in Zhongdien, and we attended a conversational class and helped teach… what a great experience! Prior to the class, we had a tasty dinner at a Muslim restaurant Earlier that day, upon arrival in Zhongdien, we had lunch downtown at a typical Tibetan restaurant, where we had the local specialty of “yak-butter-tea”… it wasn’t bad, but was really filling. I could see where this mixture of tea and yak butter would help fortify you in the extremely long and bitter cold winters. Even in May, we layered ourselves with every piece of clothing we had with us. The hotel room was also freezing… they only turn on the heating when the temperature gets below a certain threshold. Why couldn’t we find yak sweaters to keep us warm? Muslim Restaurant in Zhongdien

25. Friday Through Sunday May6-8th Outside of Zhongdien, at the Buddhist Temple Not far out of town, and easily accessible by a regular string of little lime-green buses, is the second largest Buddhist Temple in the world and the largest outside of Tibet (in Lhassa) The Buddhist Temple outside of Zhongdien

26. Sunday Through Monday May8-9th Back to Kunming… Sunday morning, we caught a flight back to Kunming, where we sorted laundry and reshuffled our suitcases. We were off to the tailor in Kunming for suits and jackets for the men. I didn’t think I’d be able to get Craig’s measurements and organize a jacket for him, but we pulled it off. I picked the style and the fabric, Craig e-mailed measurements to Jeff who adapted them as was required and Jana brought the finished goods back with her to the US. The jacket came out absolutely perfect! Also along the way to the tailor (Jana and I were to browse and not get lost until Jeff caught up with us) I spotted a custom sweater store. Even without much more than a handful of Mandarin words, we were able to figure out how the sweater thing worked, get me measured, get the prices and pick yarn. By the time Jeff arrived, we only needed a minimum of assistance to close the deal! After the tailor, we went to meet Eve who was flying in from Taipei that day. I was going to be heading back the next day, but Eve would join Jana and Jeff for the last week of their trip. Her flight was late, so we went to the “Bird and Flower” market and browsed a few hours. Jana bought some incredible scrolls and Jeff got the bargain watch he had been hunting for. We eventually met Eve back at her hotel and walked by the lake to dinner. Jana Eve and Sherry by the Lake in Kunming

27. Monday Through Tuesday May9-10th … and then Back to Shanghai Monday morning very early I headed to the airport and back to Shanghai. I got settled in the Agilent office and proceeded to sort through my e-mail… after all, it was Monday and the vacation was officially over… back to work! I took Katherine and Vivian to lunch and then continued working until late afternoon when I packed up, checked in to the hotel and then took the subway to the night market… just a few last-minute purchases prior to returning to the tailor to pick up my things. Pashmina scarves, imitation Prada and Coach purses for others, and a set of wood chopsticks with dragons on the silver tips (which came with chopstick holders) for Craig and me. Very good bargaining… I felt I had made up for the North Face WindStopper fleece jacket over-payment at the beginning of the trip! I went to dinner with some Agilent folks to a hot pot restaurant in Pudong and then returned early enough to get a few photos of the Shanghai city lights… Tuesday morning, I got my things packed up and headed out for a walk around the area and my last sights of the city… I loved this trip to China; it was one of the best vacations I have had thus far. Jana, in describing China, said it most beautifully… “China is a land of congruent and contemporaneous contradictions -- beautiful, filthy; chaotic, aikido; frenetic, serene.  And the obvious:  brand new, profoundly historic.  Nothing is easy there, but I'm sure that's why most people are lean and energetic.  The people were wonderful, especially since I couldn't understand most of their subtler comments about the lao wei. Smiles and sign language go a long way towards communicating regardless of the poor accent and 20-word vocabulary.” The Old and the New in Shanghai

28. Tuesday May10th … and finally back home to San Francisco The trip was great… what an adventure! I was also very happy to return home. My suitcase was still smoking as I brought it in to Tumi for repairs. I’m not sure what it is about China, but on both trips the airlines caused major damage… good thing that Tumi has a lifetime warrenty! I have wonderful memories, great photos and some awesome souvenirs that I will continue to enjoy and which will remind me of the wonderful adventures. I’m ready for my next trip (and still learning how to write my Chinese name!) Oh, and from the Tailor… Embroidered Jacket Silk tops (but hard to tell how beautiful they are from these photos) … and shoes to match! (Hui-Yun talked me into getting these and boy am I glad!)