Soup & Sauce Cookery

1. Soup & Sauce Cookery “The sauce to meat is ceremony; Meeting were bare without it.”-Shakespeare CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

2. “Oh là là c'est beaucoup d'estragon!” “Ce n'est pas une sauce pour une petite fille.” CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

3. Cookware: Material: Aluminum • Cheap and Good Heat Conductor • Proteins Tend to Stick • REACTIVE • Using a metal spoon or whisk release aluminum into the broth or sauce • Will discolor white sauces • Anodized Aluminum (Calphalon) • Expensive • Non-Reactive • Dark (Can’t see carmelization) CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

4. Cookware: Material: Copper • EXPENSIVE, and Great Heat Conductor • Copper must be lined • All copper pots must not be used for cooking • TOXIC • Cooking sugar and meringue are the exceptions • Tinned, wears off in time • Clad with Stainless Steel Unlined Copper Clad Stainless-Steel & Copper CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

5. Cookware: Material: Iron/Steel • Cast Iron • Cheap and Good Conductor • Reactive (Some-what less when “seasoned”) • Turns Light Sauces Dark or Grey • Enameled Cast Iron • Expensive • Non-Reactive • Chips Easily • Steel • Cheap • Good Conductor • Reactive (Some-what less when “seasoned”) CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

6. Cookware: Material: Non-Stick • Used for Eggs and Delicate Proteins like Fish • Scratches Easily…Use Plastic, Silicone or Wood Utensils • Generally can not be put into a hot oven…toxic fumes! • Not practical for integral sauces as little fond will form in the pan CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

7. Cookware: Sauteuse, Évasée or Saucier • A Sauce Pan with Sloping-Sides Curved sides eliminate hard to reach corners in the pan Sloping sides increase surface area for reduction while concentrating flavors towards the bottom CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

8. Cookware: Casserole* or Saucepot *Don’t confuse with a dish used to make an American casserole CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

9. Choosing the Right Pan • The Correct Size • Will items fit or be crowded? Too large of pan? • For severe reductions, changing pans may be necessary. • The Correct Shape • Tall and narrow like a stockpot? • Short and wide like a saucier? • Curved or square bottom? • Heaviness and Type of Material • Risk of scorching/burning? • Reactive? CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

10. Choose the Correct Pan for the Job! • Choose the right-sized pan. • For 1 quart of sauce/soup what sized pan? • Choose the correct shape pan. • Do you want evaporation/reduction or not? • Choose the best pan possible. • Heavy? Cast Iron? Copper? Non-Reactive? CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

11. Cookware: Chinois & China Cap Fine Chinois Course Chinois or China Cap CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

12. Cookware: Immersion Blender CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

13. Cookware: Blender • Vita-Prep/ Vita-Mix • The Standard of Industry • Don’t fill more than ½ way with hot liquids! CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

14. Cookware: Bain Marie CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

15. Stock (Fonds, fr.) “A flavoured liquid base for making a sauce, stew or braised dish.”-Larousse CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

16. Stocks • Used to facilitate making integral sauces • Integral sauces are sauces prepared directly from the juices that are released by meats and fish during cooking. • Used as a base for soups & stews • Used as cooking medium for braises, poaching & simmering • Utilizes less-expensive cuts of meat, meat trimmings, and bones CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

17. Stocks • Losing Importance in Modern American Kitchens • Less fabrication of meat primals…less available bones • Extra Labor • Decreasing use of non-integral sauces…more sauces are lighter pan sauces CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

18. Stock, Bouillon (Fr.), Brodo (It.) & Broth • The terms Stock, Bouillon and Broth are similar and often used interchangeably. • Broth, Bouillon or Brodo is a flavorful stock made principally of meat or seafood and may be seasoned. It is often served as is. • Stock is principally made of bones and is typically unseasoned. It serves as a base or fond of sauce or a stew CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

19. A Quality Stock • Great Depth of Flavor and Clarity • Body • Presence of Gelatin (especially in meat & poultry stocks) • Vegetable, Fish, Seafood and some Light Stocks would have little or no gelatin. • Depth of Flavor is Determined by: • Quality of Ingredients • Ratio of Solids to Liquid • Length of Cooking Time “Deep” flavor isn’t always desired, occasionally a light stock is preferred…for cooking rice or vegetables for example. CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

20. Quality of Ingredients • Bones and carcasses should be fresh and meaty. • Frozen bones that were fresh when frozen are OK • Choose bones high in gelatin when needed. • For white stocks, bones should be blanched. • Vegetables and aromatics should be fresh and of high quality. • Bones and vegetables should be cut to an appropriate size for the cooking time. • COLD water or a COLD Remouillage (Remoistened previously cooked stock bones) CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

21. Quality of Ingredients • A stockpot is not a garbage disposal • Trimmings need to be clean, wholesome and appropriate • Use of trimmings can help control costs CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

22. Blanching Bones • Not all chefs agree… • Removes impurities and maybe flavor • Produces a cleaner, clearer stock • For White Stocks (no Roasting) • Rinse the bones, cover them with water in a high stockpot • Bring to a boil over high heat • Skim and Strain • Proceed with stock recipe • Fish bones are NOT blanched due to short cooking time CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

23. Ratio of Solids to Liquids • COLD liquid should cover the solids by no more than 2 inches. • 50%-75% Nourishing Element (Bones and Meat Trimmings) • 50%-75% Mirepoix • ½# onion, ½# leek (or 1# onion), ½# carrot, ½# celery • Bouquet Garni • 100% Liquid Ex. 2# bones+2# mirepoix+3# cold water (3 pints, or 6 cups) • Liquid is simmered at a LOW and gentle simmer* and liquid is replaced as it evaporates. * One bubble per second. CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

24. Mirepoix • Cut mirepoix according to cooking time • ¾”-1” pieces for chicken stock, 2”-3” lpieces for beef, smaller for fish and shellfish • Add mirepoix after stock has simmered for 30 minutes and has been skimmed *Too much mirepoix or overcooking it may result in too much sugars released from the vegetables. CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

25. Mirepoix • 50% Onion, Peeled • Leek may substitute for ½ of the onion • 25% Carrot, Washed & Peeled • 25% Celery, (optional) • Celery may be too assertive from some applications CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

26. Types of Mirepoix • “White Mirepoix” • Replaces carrots with parsnips and may include leeks and mushrooms • “Matignon” • aka., “Edible mirepoix”, usually includes ham, bacon or pork product, mushrooms and herbs • Cut more uniformly and used for garnish CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

27. Types of Mirepoix • Cajun Mirepoix or “Holy Trinity” • Onion, Celery & Green Bell Pepper • Italian Mirepoix or “Soffritto” • Sautéed in Olive Oil and may add Garlic, Fennel and Leeks • Spanish Mirepoix or “Sofrito” • May include Tomatoes, Chiles • Asian Mirepoix • Ginger, Garlic & Scallions CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

28. Leeks • Leeks contain albumin that helps clarify stocks. • A “White Mirepoix”, substitutes leeks for onion. • Use only the white and light green parts. CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

29. Bouquet Garni or Sachet • A mixture of herbs used to flavor stocks and other preparations • Consists of thyme sprigs, parsley stems, bay leaf, celery leaves, and a few peppercorns • Tied together in leek greens or in cheesecloth (Sachet d'épices) • Add during the last 30 minutes of cooking CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

30. Cooking Time • Large beef or veal bones require a much longer simmer…6-24 hours • Chicken bones…3-4 hours • Fish Bones…30 minutes • Vegetable…30 minutes • Brown Stocks longer than White Stocks • Overcooked = bitter and saline; Undercooked = weak and watery CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

31. Clarity of Stock • Blanching Bones • Begin with COLD water or stock • (Stock will be cloudy at first. The stock will clear as it cooks.) • A Slow and Gentle Simmer, 185˚F • Do not stir • Skimming (dépouillage) Frequently • NEVER BOIL, Stock will be greasy and cloudy • Be careful if using a cover, Stock may boil CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

32. Seasoning Stock • Stock is usually NOT seasoned (with salt and pepper) to allow for use in different applications. • A broth usually IS seasoned and used for a specific application. • Vegetable stock may be seasoned because it is cooked for a very short period of time and salt heightens the flavor of the vegetables. CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

33. Stock: 3 Types • White Stock • Prepared with clean and/or blanched meat and bones moistened with cold water • May provide gelatin and a more subtle background flavor and aroma than brown stock • Brown Stock • Prepared with meat and/or bones that have been browned on the stove top or roasted • Have a richer and more complex flavor than white stock* *This is not always preferred! CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

34. Gelatin • Clear and Flavorless • Provide stock a smooth and rich texture or “mouth-feel” • Extracted from bones and cartilage • Veal Bones and Feet are HIGH in gelatin. • Chicken Wings and Feet are also HIGH in gelatin. • Fish Bones have very little or no gelatin. • Pork Bones and Rind are HIGH in gelatin but have a very assertive pork flavor and lots of fat. CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

35. Making Stock • Goal: Maximize Flavor and Minimize Cost • Meats supply savory flavor and increase cost • Defray the cost by utilizing the cooked meat in other preparations • Bones supply gelatin and minimal flavor CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

36. Making Stock • Onion Brulée • A charred onion used to darken and flavor brown stock or broth. • Vietnamese Pho Soup uses charred onion and ginger to flavor and color the broth CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

37. Fumet • A Strongly Flavored and Aromatic Fish Stock finished with an acid such as white wine or lemon juice • Oily Fish (Tuna, Salmon, Mackerel, etc.) would not be used because of their pronounced flavor • Fish bones would NOT be blanched • Mirepoix is cut small • 30-45 minutes cooking time CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

38. Court Bouillon (Short-Broth) • Classically, a quick acidulated vegetable stock used for poaching fish, veal, chicken or offal • Refined, may be served clear • Nage, refined and served with cut vegetables • Also, a quick stock/broth made with smaller bones and mirepoix • Used as a stock or broth to save time • Used to augment a weak broth • Used to infuse flavors, (ex. lamb bones in chicken stock to make a lamb short stock) CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

39. Court Bouillon (Short-Broth) con’t. • Prepared: • À la nage (“swimming”) as in a fish served in broth • Au vin blanc, with white wine • Au vin rouge with red wine • Au vinaigre, with white wine vinegar • Au blanc, with milk • Au bleu, FRESHLY killed, cleaned and lightly poached trout CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

40. Vegetable Stock • May use some salt to bring out the flavor of the vegetables. • Avoid asparagus, brassicas (broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, etc.) and potatoes • Roasting, sweating and caramelizing improves aroma and flavor • 30 minutes cooking time CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

41. Other Specialty Stocks • Lamb Stock for Scotch Broth • Pork or Ham Stock • Shrimp Shells, Lobster Bodies for Bisque • Dashi, Kombu (Seaweed) & Bonito (Fish) Flakes • Fundamental to Japanese Cuisine • Base to Miso Soup • Tomato Stock for Tomato Sauces CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

42. Reductions & Glazes • Reduction • Concentrating stocks by boiling or simmering them to evaporate part of the water producing more flavor and body. • Glazes (Glace, fr.)) • A stock reduced by 50-90% , until it has a syrup-like consistency and coats the back of a spoon. • Glazes become solid and rubbery when chilled. • Glazes are not usually reconstituted as stocks because their flavor has been intensified by the prolonged cooking. • “Glace de viande” or Meat glaze • “Glace de volaille” or Chicken glaze • “Glace de poisson” or Fish glaze CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

43. Making a Glace Reduce the stock over moderate heat…Skim Frequently CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

44. Making a Glace Move to smaller pans as sauce reduces and strain CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

45. Making a Glace Check consistency CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

46. Straining Stock • Carefully decant the stock form solids and strain through a fine chinois lined with two layers of moistened cheesecloth. CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

47. Cooling and Storing • Cool Stocks QUICKLY…Use an Ice Bath, Ice Paddles and Smaller Containers (Beef broth is used for Petri dishes!) • From 135˚F to 70˚F within 2 Hours and then 70˚F to below 41˚F within 4 hours • Degrease stock before using. • Stocks may kept frozen for months. CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

48. Commercial Bases • HIGH in sodium • Sodium essential as a preservative • Check first ingredient • You Pay for Quality • Used by MOST Food Services • Saves on Labor • Provides Consistency and Efficiency • Boost Weak Stocks CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

49. 9 Stock Making Rules • Use quality fresh ingredients. • Start in cold water. • Simmer gently…DO NOT BOIL. • Skim frequently…When in doubt, skim again. • Do not stir. • Strain carefully and gently. • Cool quickly. • Store properly. • Degrease before using. CHRM 1120/O'Donnell

50. Making a White Stock 1. Rinse the Bones (Use only fresh or frozen bones and rinse under COLD water.) CHRM 1120/O'Donnell