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Costume construction. Costume shop. Cutter/Draper- is responsible for actually translating the designer’s sketches into reality First hand-to supervise the construction of the costumes Stitchers -operate the sewing machines and do the hand sewing that pieces the costumes together
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Costume shop • Cutter/Draper- is responsible for actually translating the designer’s sketches into reality • First hand-to supervise the construction of the costumes • Stitchers-operate the sewing machines and do the hand sewing that pieces the costumes together • Dye/painters-dye and paint the fabric • Milliner-makes hats and accessories • Wigmaster-makes, styles, arranges the wigs • Costume craftsperson-makes and creates the shoes • Wardrobe supervisor-responsible for all costumes and accessories
Creating a costume • There are three different ways a costume is created for a production • Rental: the theatre rents costumes from a costume shop • Reuse: costume shops use materials and stock to create a new piece • Build: construct a costume from scratch
Costume needs • Costumes used in theatre or dance performances often need to serve multiple purposes • At times an actor may need to change costume quickly or on stage • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hcP1cV3nBZI • If a costume is being used in a musical or dance number, the costume cannot hinder the actor • The costume must be durable, shows on Broadway can run up to 10 times in a week • The costume must be safe for the actor
The production budget for the Broadway musical wicked was $42 million The bubble dress for Glinda in the Broadway production of Wicked is worth approximately $35,000. The costume was built from scratch and includes thousands of beads and sequins that were hand stitched. The main dress for the Wicked Witch is worth approximately $20,00.
Behind the scenes • Behind the scenes of Wicked • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dCXEgzBkfsA
Stitch 101 • Straight Stitch • Basic stitch used for hems, sewing two pieces of material together, and gathering fabric • Whip Stitch • Used for decorative purposes, can be invisible, and can close a hem • Catchstitch • Line of x’s, is a stronger stitch, flexible and strong • Fell Stitch • Attaches a raw or folded edge • Slip Stitch • Used for joining two fabrics together • Basting Stitch • Wide running stitches meant to be temporary
Costumes:Theatre v. film • Phantom of the Opera (2004) • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RplYRP0wX1E&list=PL171D74BDEB7DC93A • Phantom of the Opera 25th Anniversary performance • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JlUmAt7WISA&list=PLA0F91BDB3A1CF2EC
stiches • Straight stitch • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=06T0C3RWfxY • Whip stitch • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v9kGyZDWZcA • Fell stitch • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYf2xm1KDG4 • Buttons
Costume measurements • A CHEST/BUST (M/F) — circumference taken around greatest fullness • B WAIST (M/F) — circumference taken around natural waistline • C HIP (F) — circumference taken around greatest fullness • D OUTSEAM (M/F) — taken from natural waistline to just below ankle bone • E INSEAM (M) — taken from crotch to just below ankle bone • F NECK SIZE (M/F) — neck size taken around base of neck
Costume measurements • G SLEEVE LENGTH(M/F) — sleeve length taken from prominent neck vertebrae across shoulder to wrist • H HAT (M/F) — circumference taken around head above ears • I SHOULDER TO SHOULDER (M/F) — taken across back from shoulder bone to shoulder bone • J NAPE TO WAIST (M/F) — taken from base of neck to natural waist • K NAPE TO FLOOR (M/F) — taken from base of neck to floor