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Planning, Laying Out, and Tooling Concrete Block

Planning, Laying Out, and Tooling Concrete Block. Next Generation Science/Common Core Standards Addressed!.

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Planning, Laying Out, and Tooling Concrete Block

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  1. Planning, Laying Out, and Tooling Concrete Block

  2. Next Generation Science/Common Core Standards Addressed! • CCSS.ELA Literacy. RST.9‐10.3 Follow precisely a complex multistep procedure when carrying out experiments, taking measurements, or performing technical tasks, attending to special cases or exceptions defined in the text. • CCSS.ELA Literacy. RST.11‐ 12.3 Follow precisely a complex multistep procedure when carrying out experiments, taking measurements, or performing technical tasks; analyze the specific results based on explanations in the text • CCSS.ELA Literacy. RST.11‐12.4 Determine the meaning of symbols, key terms, and other domain‐specific words and phrases as they are used in a specific scientific or technical context relevant to grades 11–12 texts and topics. • CCSS.Math.Content.HSGCO.D.12 Make formal geometric constructions with a variety of tools and methods (compass and straight edge, string, reflective devices, paper folding, dynamic geometric software, etc.). Copying a segment; copying an angle; bisecting a segment; bisecting an angle; constructing perpendicular lines, including the perpendicular bisector of a line segment; and constructing a line parallel to a given line through a point not on the line

  3. Agriculture, Food and Natural Resource Standards Addressed! • PST.04.03. Follow architectural and mechanical plans to construct, maintain and/or repair AFNR structures (e.g., material selection, site preparation and/or layout, plumbing, concrete/ masonry, etc.). • PST.04.03.06.c. Construct, maintain and/or repair AFNR structures with concrete, brick, stone or masonry

  4. Bell Work/Student Learning Objectives • Discuss how to plan and lay out a job. • Explain how to mix mortar and lay blocks. • Explain how to tool joints, patch holes, and clean smears.

  5. Terminology • Batter boards • Block chisel • Block hammer • Block trowel • Closure block • Concrete masonry units • Corner block • Face shell mortar bed • Frost line • Full mortar bed • Jointer • Lightweight blocks • Mason’s line • Masonry cement • Masonry sand • Mortar • Mortar hoe • Raker joint • Standard or heavyweight blocks • Story or course pole • Stretcher block • Tooling joints

  6. Concrete masonry • Popular type of agricultural construction. • Concrete blocks are strong, durable, fireproof, rodent and termite proof, and do not rot • Concrete masonry units, also called concrete blocks, come in two types and several standard sizes

  7. General Types • Two general types: • hollow • solid • Standard or heavyweight block: • Made from Portland cement, water, sand, gravel, and crushed stone

  8. General Types • Lightweight blocks: • Made from Portland cement, water, and lightweight aggregates, such as cinders, slag, or shale. • Weighs half as much as a standard block • Easier to handle but have greater insulating value

  9. Block Sizes • Even number widths • 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12 inches • Even number heights • 4 and 8 inches • 8 ×8 ×16 block • Widely used to build agricultural structures. • Actual dimensions are: 7 5 /8 ×7 5 /8 ×15 5 /8 • Mortar completes the dimensions (3/8 layer)

  10. Block Sizes • When the standard 3/8 mortar joint is added, the block with one mortar joint is 8 inches high and 16 inches long.

  11. Block Types • Building dimensions • Total length and width in inches should be divisible by eight so that full blocks and half blocks will be used • Blocks come in a variety of shapes • Corner block and stretcher blocks are the most common

  12. Block Types • Stretcher block: has ribs on both ends • Usually with three cores or holes in the block • Used between the corners

  13. Block Types • Corner block: Square across one end and has ribs on the other end • Used at the corner when laying blocks Use the dimensions to figure the • Use the dimensions to figure the number of blocks needed.

  14. Other types of blocks!

  15. Bonding Materials • Mortar: Bonding material made of sand and masonry cement • Mix one part cement to 2½ to 3 parts masonry sand. • Masonry cement: Type of cement used to make mortar while Portland cement is used to make concrete

  16. Bonding Materials • Masonry sand is fine sand while the sand used in concrete is coarse sand • Use the following as a guide to calculate the amount of cement and sand to purchase: • in a 1:3 mix, 1 bag of cement and 250 pounds of sand will lay 100 eight inch blocks.

  17. Laying out the Structure • Building must be laid out prior to digging the footing and pouring it • Surveying instruments • Easiest, quickest, most accurate way to lay out building’s corners • Generally laid out parallel to property lines or other buildings

  18. Laying out the Structure • Surveying level and target rod:Helps to set square corners and the proper height of the foundation wallDimensions should always be doubled checkedMeasuring for equal diagonals is a way to check for square corners.

  19. If no Surveying Equipment • Establish a base line and use the 3–4–5 right triangle method to establish square corners

  20. Outer Supports • Batter boards: Outside supports used to stretch strings • stretch strings: set up when corner stakes are in place • The batter board includes three stakes and two horizontal 1 x 4 or 1 x 6’s • The strings mark the outside of the foundation wall and the top of the foundation

  21. Outer Supports • Plumb bobs can be helpful to insure that the strings intersect over the corner stake • Use powdered lime or spray paint to mark the ground for digging the footing

  22. Outer Supports • Remove strings while the digging is done. • The surveying level and the target rod are used to set the grade stakes or forms in the trench

  23. Outer Supports • The footing trench should be dug down to firm soil below the frost line • Frost line: Deepest point in the soil where the ground freezes in a typical year • The bottom of the trench should be flat and level • Most New Mexico building codes require the footing to be a foot deep.

  24. Outer Supports • Footing rules are: • Set at or below the frost line, • pour a minimum of 8 inches for 8 inch blocks, 10 inches for 10 inch blocks, etc., and • have the footing at least twice as wide as the foundation.

  25. Outer Supports • After footing is poured and forms are removed: • Sweep off the footing and re-stretch the strings • The plumb bob can be used at the string intersection to help mark the corners on the footing • This provides you with a straight line for laying the block wall

  26. Outer Supports • Snap a chalk line on the concrete footing to mark the location of the outside of the first row of concrete blocks • Beginning block layers sometimes lay out the first row of blocks without mortar to make sure the layout was planned properly

  27. Mixing Mortar and Laying Blocks • Good mortar: Absolutely necessary for good workmanship and a good finished wall • Process of laying concrete blocks requires considerable know-how and skill • Concrete masonry work may be contracted to professionals

  28. Concrete Masonry • You start by mixing mortar and carrying blocks • Start with: • Clean, dry blocks • water • masonry sand • masonry cement • concrete blocks • quality tools

  29. Mixing Mortar • Strength of a mortar joint is affected by: • Quantity of cementing material, • Portions and moisture content of the mortar, and • Quality of the workmanship.

  30. Mixing Mortar • Mix one part masonry cement to 2½ to 3 parts masonry sand with enough to make a workable mix that is plastic enough to support blocks on a 3 /8 inch mortar joint until it has set • If masonry cement is not available: • Use Combination of Portland cement and hydrated lime

  31. Mixing Mortar • Mix mortar in: • A leak proof box with shallow sides, • A wheelbarrow, or • A mixing machine

  32. Mixing Mortar • To hand mix: • Use a mortar hoe (a hoe with two large holes in the blade) to dry mix the cement and sand until a uniform color exists. • Gradually add water and continue mixing with the mortar hoe until the mortar is plastic and workable

  33. Mixing Mortar • If mortar is: • Too stiff: Will not bond well and results in a thick joint • Too thin: Will be squeezed out by the weight of the block resulting in narrow mortar joints

  34. Concrete Layout • Locate the corners and lay out the first course, without mortar, to check the layout • Full mortar bed: Using mortar on both horizontal and vertical cross webs of the block • Face shell mortar bed: Using mortar on only the horizontal cross webs of the block

  35. Concrete Layout • Normally the first course uses a full mortar bed and the other courses use a face shell mortar bed • Always lay the blocks with the thicker end of the face shell up • This provides a larger area on which to place the mortar

  36. Laying first course of Blocks • Mason’s line: Nylon string that is stretched tight to mark the top and outside edge of a row of concrete blocks • Once the first course corner blocks are laid in position stretch it so that the first course will be straight • Buttering refers to putting mortar on the end of a block

  37. Laying first course of Blocks • Block layers often stand several blocks on end and butter the ends • To get a better bond to the block: • Flip mortar off trowel onto block with snap of the wrist • To place the block in position: • Pick it up with both hands and use a swinging motion to lower it into position

  38. Laying first course of Blocks • To make sure a laid block is level plumb, and aligned: • Use a level • Level the blocks by tapping the block with the handle of the trowel

  39. Laying first course of Blocks • Block trowel: Triangular shaped piece of metal with a wooden handle • Block hammer: Can be used to tap blocks into place as well as cutting blocks

  40. Laying first course of Blocks • Block chisel: Three or four inch wide metal chisel that can be hit with the block hammer to mark and cut concrete blocks

  41. After first course of blocks • Use face shell mortar beds and lay up 4 or 5 courses of blocks at the corners • Check for each block’s: • Level, plumb, and alignment • Checking horizontal spacing: • Use a straightedge or four foot level

  42. After first course of blocks • Since each course is back spaced a half block, the corner of each back stepped row should touch the diagonally positioned straightedge. • Story or course pole: Board with markings eight inches apart • Use to ensure that the horizontal mortar jointing are running 3 /8 inches thick.

  43. After first course of blocks • Key to a straight true wall: • Using the mason’s line between the corners as a guide • Most difficult part of laying blocks: • Usually laying the closure block

  44. After first course of blocks • Closure block: Last block laid to complete the row • If vertical mortar joints have been 3/8 inches the opening for the last block should be 16 3/8 inches long (2 3/8 inch mortar joints and a 15 5/8 inch block)

  45. After first course of blocks • Closure block: • Must be buttered on both ends or • Previously laid block must be buttered • If mortar falls off the end of the block as swung into place, block should be removed and re-buttered

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