4.01 Pattern & Guide Sheet

1. 4.01 Pattern & Guide Sheet Pattern Symbols Layout Charts Sewing Instructions

2. Pattern • Inside the pattern envelope you will find the pattern pieces. • Handle them carefully, they are made of tissue paper. • On each piece you will see terms and markings. These will help you construct your garment.

3. Grain Line • Indicates the placement of pattern piece on the fabric grain. Grain line must be placed exactly parallel to the selvage. • Selvage is the fabric edge that will not ravel or fray. • May be indicated by a straight line labeled grain line. OR Grain Line

4. Place on fold/Fold line • Grain line symbol that required the solid line be placed on the fold of the fabric. • Usually seen at center front or back.

5. May also be represented by only a line with “place on fold” printed. Place on fold

6. Dots, Squares, or Triangles • Used to match fabric pieces, especially in areas requiring easing like sleeves. • May be with in garment piece to indicate placement of details like pockets or zippers.

7. Notches • Used for matching seams and joining garment pieces. • Should extend beyond the cutting line. Cut Garment

8. Double & Triple Notches • Cut them as one long block Cut Garment

9. On multi-sized patterns the notches often appear as triangles. You should draw the other half before you cut the fabric. Draw this half Garment

10. Stitching line • Broken line usually 5/8” from cutting line. • Indicates where to stitch fabric pieces together. • Seam allowance – distance between stitching line and cutting line. Seam allowance

11. Darts • Triangular folds of fabric used to control fullness. • Fold on the solid line, stitch on the broken lines. Stitching line Fold line

12. Buttonhole Placement • Shows exact location and length of each buttonhole • Indicated by any of these 4 symbols . . . .

13. Hemline • Indicates the depth of the hem (how much fabric to turn up for hem) Fold on inner solid line 1 inch hem allowed

14. Center Front • Indicates the center front of garment. Center front Overlap

15. Pocket Placement • Indicates the placement of pockets within the garment

16. Adjustment lines • Indicates where pattern can be lengthened or shortened. Shorten or lengthen here

17. Additional Information • Number of pieces to cut • Pattern piece name/number or letter • Size Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

18. To Do: • Complete descriptions for Section 2 Pattern Symbols on Terms to Know page. • Complete Activity 67 Identify Pattern Symbols; refer to Clothing: Fashion, Fabric, Construction, pg. 474 & 475.

19. Guide Sheet • Gives you step-by-step information for cutting, marking, and sewing the fabric pieces together. • Two main sections of the guide sheet are cutting layouts and sewing instructions. • Also included are sketches and special information.

20. Special instructions for marking, alterations, & symbols Design Sketches of style included in pattern Sketches of each pattern piece included Cutting Layouts based on view, fabric width, size, and fabric type.

21. Select your layout diagram based on the view your are making, your fabric width, fabric type, and size. Circle the layout for easy reference. Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

22. Fabric Grains Selvage – two finished edges, do not ravel or fray Lengthwise grain – runs in the same direction as the selvage, strongest threads. Crosswise grain – runs across fabric from one selvage to the other, usually has slight stretch. Bias – runs diagonally across the fabric. Has the most stretch. Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

23. Fabric Folds Lengthwise fold Fold fabric in half lengthwise with right sides together. Match selvages & ends Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

24. Crosswise Fold Fold fabric in half crosswise with right sides together. Fold should be from selvage to selvage, perpendicular to the selvages. Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

25. Center/Double Fold Fold fabric twice along the lengthwise grain, right sides together. Selvages should meet in the middle Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

26. Partial Fold Fold fabric on the lengthwise grain, right sides together, only wide enough to fit the widest pattern piece. Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

27. Placement of pattern pieces Place the pieces on the fold or the largest pattern pieces on first. Refer to pattern piece for number of fabric pieces to cut by each pattern. Place all pattern pieces on fabric before pinning any to fabric. Follow layout diagram exactly. Simplicity Pattern Read special instructions Simplicity Pattern

28. Sewing instructions Follow the sequence exactly Read the written directions. Review the pictorial directions. Refer to the special sewing information. Simplicity Pattern

29. To Do: • Complete descriptions for Sections 1 & 4 of the Terms to know. • Complete Activity 8-2 Using the Instruction sheet; refer to Successful Sewing, Lesson 8. • Complete the practice VOCATS questions for 4.01

30. Work Cited • Weber, Jeanette. Clothing Fashion, Fabrics, & Construction. New York: Glenco-McGraw Hill, 1997. • Liddell, Louise A. and Carolee S. Samuels, CFCS. Clothes & Your Appearance. Illinois: The Goodheart-Willcox Company, Inc. 1996. • Soto, Anne Marie. Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book. New York: Simplicity Pattern Company. 1999.