Pruning

1. Pruning

2. Pruning is… • The term used for the selective removal or reduction of certain plant parts. • Pruning ranges from removing selected parts or removal of huge limbs. • Improper pruning can lead to unsightly plants.

3. What to Prune… • 1. Make cuts that cause the least amount of damage to the plant. • 2. Begin pruning practices when the plant is young. • 3. In most cases, prune after the plant has flowered. • 4. Safely use sharp tools suitable for the job.

4. Reasons to prune • Develop a strong framework of branches that resist breakage and provide an attractive appearance • Restrict size of a plant • Repair damaged limbs • Improve flowering of trees and shrubs • Remove diseased or insect infested limbs, reducing the spread of pests. • Directing growth • Maintain desired cultivars

5. Opening the crown to allow light and wind to pass • Maintain safe conditions • Improve quality of fruit.

6. Branching Framework • Trees should have a single, strong leader. • Leader- a central branch that dominates over the other branches on the tree. • Sometimes co-leaders are formed and this causes a tree to become weak and unattractive. • Pruning should be started when a tree is young. • The best way to get rid of co-leaders is to identify the best and prune the others.

7. Subordination- cuts made that slow the growth of a branch. • Good to use in a small tree with multiple leaders.

8. Scaffold branches- grow laterally from the trunk. • Branches that develop a 45 to 90 degree attachment are structurally strong. This is considered to be a U-shaped crotch. A V-shaped crotch is undesirable and are usually weak. • Watersprouts- are soft, green shoots that typically grow vertically from existing branches. • Suckers- are soft, green shoots that develop from the base of the tree.

9. Removal of suckers is particularly important when a plant is a cultivar– which is a plant that is produced by grafting. Ex: red delicious apples and golden delicious apples, knock-out roses. • Grafting- Joining two different plants together to form a new, better plant. • Scion- Top growth of a graft • Rootstock- Root/bottom growth of the graft • Rootstock does not usually have desired qualities. Used for its root quality.

10. Crossing branches • The rubbing of the two branches causes friction and leaves an open wound on the tree where insects and disease may enter. • Remove the less important of the two branches. • It is best to look for these when the tree is young.

11. Diseased or Dead Wood • Broken or diseased wood should be removed as dead wood prevents the tree from healing. • They are also safety hazards.

12. Compartmentalization • Is the way that the trees heal themselves after wounded. Trees produce chemicals that inhibit decay caused by bacteria and fungi, these chemicals seal the wound.

13. Callus- a protective growth of tissue, over the wound. • Collar- swollen trunk tissue surrounding the base of the branch. • Branch bark ridge- a raised line of bark that forms on the upper side of the branch where the branch joins the trunk. • Never remove the collar or bark ridge when pruning since this is where the tree releases the chemicals to prevent decay.

14. Which pruning cut to use • Drop- crotch pruning- is a method that effectively shortens tree limbs and reduces the size of a tree. • It also helps direct the growth of young trees. • Only accepted pruning technique for reducing height of a tree. • Thinning cut- open up canopy to allow light. Does not reduce the size of a tree. Mature Trees • Heading cuts- made between nodes on stem to promote branching or to direct growth. Young trees

15. When to Prune… • Varies by the type of plant. • Most deciduous trees should be pruned late winter and early spring. • If it is a ornamental flowering tree or shrub prune after it has flowered for the spring.

16. Pruning Deciduous Shrubs • There are 3 types of pruning for deciduous shrubs: • Renewal pruning- is defined as the selective removal of older plant stems, new growth is encouraged, the plant size is maintained, and flowering is promoted. • Cut stems at ground level. • Choose stems carefully • Lilacs, Forsythias, and Viburnum respond well to this type of pruning.

17. Rejuvenation pruning- is a method of pruning deciduous shrubs that involves removing all stems to 4-6 inch stubs. • Late winter to early spring is the best time to do this type of pruning. • Spirea and Honeysuckle respond well to this.

18. Heading Back- involves the shortening of individual stems using heading cuts. • Using heading back removes dead or diseased wood and to restrict size. • Cuts are made back to the parent stem rather than to the ground.

19. Shearing- effectively reduces the total leaf surface a plant has to produce energy. As a result the plant is placed under stress. This is used to make geometric shapes.

20. Pruning Evergreens • Arborvitae- maintained easily by heading back limbs with hand- held pruners. Prune in spring. Avoid severe pruning that exposes dead zones. • Dead Zone- a region in the center of the plant that seldom produces new shoots. • Firs- annual pruning in early summer, to shorten the leader and lateral shoots, promotes dense growth. • Junipers- use heading back method in spring. Stay clear of the dead zone as the dead zone will not produce green foliage again.

21. Pines- Prune when they are in the candle stage (resemble candles). Cut the terminal candles then cut the lateral (side) candles 2-4 inches shorter than the terminal. • Spruce- same as pines • Yews- use heading back. Plant can tolerate up to 50% of plant being removed. Prune in spring and again in early summer.

22. Broadleaf Evergreens • Rhododendrons, holly, and boxwood require very little pruning. • Remove flowers after they are faded on the Rhododendron to promote dense growth. • Light heading is recommended to keep holly and boxwood dense.

23. Pruning Tools • Hand pruners or loppers- used for small branches • Pruning saw- are small and have large teeth, used for larger limbs. • Hedge shears- gas powered or electric , shape shrubs in formal gardens.