Guide to Grapevine Pruning: Understanding Spurs and Cordon Maintenance

1. How To Prune Grapevines Part Three Spur Pruning

2. Spurs & Spur Sites • Spurs are located on spur sites that are on the TOP of the cordon • Spurs • Are the canes that have been cut to 2 nodes

3. Spurs & Spur Sites • Spurs are located on spur sites that are on the TOP of the cordon • Spurs • Are the canes that have been cut to 2 node • Spur sites • Are the older wood that the spurs are attached to

4. Cordons • Permanent arms run along the fruiting wires

5. Cordons • Are canes that have not been removed but become part of the permanent structure • They do not become longer in length but they do become wider in girth • They can last for a number of years

6. Spurs are Count nodes • That provide count shoots for the current year • But remember... • Cane pruning also uses spurs to provide the replacement canes for the following year • Spurs should be left longer for less fruitful varieties or shorter in the case of very fruitful varieties

7. Typical spur site

8. Typical spur site

9. Spur Sites • Spur sites need to be carefully managed • They can get killed off by: • Pests, diseases and machinery

10. Loss of Spur Sites • Loss of spur sites will result in a gap in the canopy • Careful management of each spur site is very important in maintaining a healthy and productive cordon • A cordon with dead spur sites will need to be replaced as these sites will often not regenerate

11. Spur Pruning • Usually pruned to two node spurs at each site • The spur sites are spaced out on the tops of cordons so that when they are pruned there will be a shoot density of 15 shoots per metre • The aim with spur pruning is to keep the spurs as close to the cordon as possible • The diagram below shows you how to achieve this

12. Which cane becomes the spur? This seasons canes Which cane will keep the spur sit close to the cordon? Last seasons spur Seasons before spur Cordon

15. The spur site was not correctly managed and this has resulted in an elongated spur that is now quite a distance away from the cordon

16. Other pruning Cuts • Removing watershoots • Renewing spur sites • Replacing cordons

17. Removing Watershoots This watershoot is not needed The spurs sites are already well spaced Try to remove it so it is flush with the cordon

18. Removing Watershoots

19. Replacing Spur Sites This Spur site is damaged Try to leave a small mound that contains dormant buds

20. Replacing Spur Sites A watershoot will burst and the new spur site can be created

22. Replacing a Cordon It needs to be close to the head and below the fruiting wire This cordon is diseased and a new one needs to be established This can be achieved with a watershoot or a cane Remove the cordon till there is only clean wood

23. Replacing a Cordon The watershoot is laid onto the wire and tied down

24. Replacing a Cordon

25. Cutting a Spur • Cut the spur 1.5 - 2 cm behind the node/bud angled slightly away from the bud • The angled cut avoids damaging the bud and reduces the possibility of water and disease spores accumulating on the cut which could infect the wood

26. Cutting a Spur • The cut is angled away from the bud to avoid bud damage and to avoid water accumulation