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Learn about the technical design process, fabric selection, and fabric construction. Explore different types of weaves and knits, including plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, rib knits, and tricot knits. Understand the advantages and disadvantages of each weave and knit, and discover the uses of nonwoven fabrics.
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2.01 Understanding The Technical Design Process A. Fabric Selection 1. Fabric Construction
Turning Yarn into Fabric Weaving: The process of interlacing one or more sets of yarns at right angles on a loom. • Warp yarns: Yarns that run lengthwise in woven fabric. (“p” = up and down) • Weft yarns: Yarns that run crosswise in woven fabric. (“weft” sounds like left & right)
Turning Yarn into Fabric (cont.) • Grain: The direction of the lengthwise and crosswise yarns in a woven fabric. • Bias: The diagonal grain of a fabric. The bias provides the greatest stretch in the fabric.
Weaving Plain weave: The simplest weave in which the weft (crosswise) yarn is passed over then under each warp (lengthwise) yarn. A basket weave is one variation, with the weft yarn passing over two and under two warp yarns each pass. Plain weave Examples: chiffon gingham seersucker taffeta
Weaving Twill weave: A very strong weave in which the weft yarn is passed over and under one, two, or three warp yarns Used for durability, this weave produces a diagonal design on the surface. Twillweave Examples: denim, chino gabardine
Weaving Satin weave: A very weak weave that produces a smooth, shiny-surfaced fabric resulting from passing the weft yarn over and under numerous warp yarns to create long floats. Satinweave Examples: sateen satin
Weaving In textiles, pile is the raised surface or nap of a fabric, which is made of upright loops or strands of yarn.
Weaving A pile weave is made on a loom, like most types of weaves are made. The difference is that loops are created. These loops can either be left uncut, like in towels, or can be cut to uniform lengths, like in velvet fabric. Types of fabrics created using a pile weave include Velvet, Corduroy, Terrycloth, and Velveteen
Weaving Assignment • Using construction paper cut into strips about 1 inches x 11 inches you should recreate: • plain weave • twill weave • satin weave • On the back of each weave: • list the advantages • list disadvantages • 3 examples of weave
Turning Yarn into Fabric Wales – yarns that run in the lengthwise direction , like a warp yarns in woven fabrics Courses – yarns that run in the crosswise direction, like the weft yarns in woven fabrics Knitting: the process of pulling loops of yarns through other loops to create interlocking rows of stitches
Knitting • Weft Knit: a knit made with only one yarn • Types of weft knits include: • Jersey knits – most common type, curls at edges, used for t-shirts, sweaters and tights/hosiery • Rib knits – have vertical “ribs” (columns of stitches), used for neck, wrist and bottom bands of sweatshirts & jackets • Double knits – two yarns and two needles are used resulting in heavier, sturdier knits that don’t run or ravel • Characteristics include: • Two-way stretch in both lengthwise & crosswise directions • Can get lengthwise “runs” from broken threads • Made on either flat or circular knitting machines
Knitting Jersey Knits
Knitting Rib Knits
Knitting Double Knits
Knitting • Warp knit: a knit made with several yarns on flat knitting machines. Multiple yarns are looped together to produce a run-resistant knitted fabric. • Tricot knits – stable knits that lie flat and don’t run or ravel, made on very fast tricot knitting machines, used for lingerie, underwear and uniforms • Raschel knits – an extra yarn is used to create a patterned design in these knits, used for lacy knits, thermal underwear and bathing suits
Knitting Tricot knits
Knitting Raschel knits
Knitting Seamless knitting involves the production of a whole garment in one piece on a knitting machine so that little or no sewing is required.
Nonwoven Fabrics Made from fibers, not yarns Fibers are held together by a combination of moisture, heat, chemicals and/or pressure. No grain line Limited stretch Inexpensive Often disposal
Nonwoven Fabrics • Uses include: • Interfacings • Batting for quilts • Felt • Disposable products • Medical products