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INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF DIVINE GROUP LTD

INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF DIVINE GROUP LTD

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INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF DIVINE GROUP LTD

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  1. INDUSTRIAL TRAINING Course Code: Tex -4036 INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF DIVINE GROUP LTD. D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 1

  2. a mission with a vision INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT REPORT ON DIVINE FABRICS LIMITED (DIVINE GROUP) Chandra, Pollibiddut, Kaliakoir, Gazipur (9TH FEBRUARY TO 19TH MARCH, 2014) A REPORT SUBMITTED ON INDUSTRIAL TRAINING TO THE DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING IN PARTIAL FULFILLMENT OF THE CREDIT REQUIREMENT FOR THE FINAL SEMESTER AND THE CREDIT REQUIREMENT FOR ACHIEVING THE BACHELOR DEGREE OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING BY SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY. D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 2

  3. TABLE OF CONTENT TOPIC NUMBER TOPIC NAME PAGE NUMBER 01 Introduction 5 02 Project Description 6-15 03 Layout Plan 16-17 05 Management System 18-21 06 Raw Materials 22-29 A Knitting Section 30-56 B Laboratory 57-69 C Batch Section 70-74 D Dyeing Section 75-97 E Printing Section 98-104 F Finishing Section 105-116 G Garments Section 117-141 07 Quality Assurance System 142-148 08 Maintenance Section 149-151 09 Utility Service 152-155 10 Social & Environmental Information 156-159 11 Conclusion 160-161 D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 3

  4. INTRODUCTION The industrial attachment is the process, which builds understanding, skills and attitude of the performer, which improves his knowledge in boosting productivity and services. University education provides us vast theoretical knowledge as well as more practical attachment, in despite of all these industrial attachment helps us to be familiar with technical support of modern machinery, skillness about various processing stages. It also provides me sufficient practical knowledge about production management, work study, efficiency, industrial management, purchasing, utility and maintenance of machinery and their operation techniques etc. The above mentioned can not be achieved successfully by means of theoretical knowledge only. This is why it should be accomplished with practical knowledge in which it is based on. Industrial attachment makes me reliable to be accustomed with the industrial atmosphere and improve courage and inspiration to take self responsibility. Textile education can‘t be completed without industrial training. Because this industrial training minimizes the gap between theoretical and practical knowledge and make us accustomed to industrial environment. I got an opportunity to complete two-months long industrial training at Divine Group Ltd. In the field of ever changing moderns fashion work Divine Group Ltd. considers it prime mission to every new test. Which & demand of customers from around the World & all strains human culture Divine Group of Industries Limited (DGI) acts on the basis premise that fashion is an exploration in to the images people seek to convey about themselves & the way they live. It has well planned & equipped Knit fabric dyeing-finishing and Garment units in addition to facilitate knitting and knitwear manufacturing. I have prepared this report as required in competition of my attachment course in regarding guideline given by the university authority which will lead to a strong guideline and milestone for my future carrier. D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 4

  5. D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 5

  6. AT A GLANCE Name of Company : Divine Textile Ltd. Address : Chandra, Kaliakoir, Gazipur, Bangladesh Phone : 06822-51229 Head Office : House No: 348, Road No: 26, New DHOS, Mohakhali, Dhaka – 1206, Bangladesh. Fax Number : + 88-02-9885032 D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 6

  7. FACTORY INFORMATION Factory Type : 100% Export Oriented Knit Composite Industry. Year of Establishment : 1997 Investor : Mr. Hasanuzzaman Location : Chandra, Kaliakoir, Gazipur. Annual Turnover : Tk. 10, 00, 00,000 to 12, 00, 00,000 Certification & Awards : ISO 9001:2000 & WRAP Production Capacity : Knitting : 15.5 tons/day (Average) Dyeing : 15.5 ton/day (Average) Sewing : 100000 pcs/day (Average) Main Production : Basic T-Shirt, Tank top, Long Sleeve, T-Shirt, Polo Shirt, Shorts, Pajama, Set, Ladies ,Kids Knitwear & all kinds of knit garments & Knit fabrics. D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 7

  8. 100% EXPORT ORIENTED KNITWEAR INDUSTRIES LTD. D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 8

  9. In the backdrop of a mercurial, ever-changing fashion world, Divine Group of Industries Ltd. considers its prime mission to suit every new taste, whim and demand of customers from around the world and all strains of human culture. Divine Group acts on the basic premise that 'fashion‘ is an exploration into the images people seek to convey about themselves and the way they live. So, in dealing with its target consumers, Divine Group mainly aims to know their perception about themselves and translates those into Garments. Doing that, over the years, Divine Group designers have acquired an almost telepathic understanding of the customers' needs. D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 9

  10. Mr. Hasanuzzaman, Managing Director The Chief Executive of Divine Group of Industries Ltd. Divine Group has started manufacture and export of garments since late 1997. Its mission is ti produce the latest design, quality knit fabrics and apparels for international markets. Divine Group is one of the few elite private sector business groups, which contributed wealth as well as welfare to the struggling economy of Bangladesh. As time is essential to space so is taste to its products. The secret is love-which, paired with meticulous efficiency and a keen sensitivity to style, makes Divine Group an emerging brand destined to light up horizon of fashion. Divine Group has team of skilled and dedicated technocrats backed by adequate number of modern USA and European machinery and equipments to match international standard of all kinds of knitwear products. D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 1 0

  11. Within only a decade, Divine Group by hyper-growth has been transformed into a futuristic entrepreneurial saga. Its production has branched out into eight full fledged factories at four locations- Chandra, Kaliakoir in Gazipur, Chowgasa in Jessore and Mirpur Dhaka. Divine Group Chandra premise houses an ultra-modern Divine Textile Ltd, with forth story building as the main one. Divine Textile Ltd Unit-2 a new 09-story building in the same premises. Divine Fabric Ltd. a new 3rd story building is under construction at Chandra, Gazipur. The Divine Textile Ltd. at Chandra, Housed in four floors of 24,000 square foot, employees of 750 staff with a daily production capacity of 12,000 pieces of complete garments, while 2650 staff of Divine Textile Ltd. unit -2 at the same premises produce around 50,000 pieces of garments a day. Divine Group of Industries Ltd. has its own water pre-treatment plan and 24,500 cubic feet water reservoirs in its Chandra, campus. The Chandra premises has its own power Generators plant where 2,200 kw power generators guarantee smooth and uninterrupted power supply to its every operation. Divine Group of Industries Ltd. has its own Wastage water treatment plan (ETP) and 24,500 cubic dyed water has been treated in this campus and go through the outside. Divine Group home base is Gazipur - a city furnished with the largest garments factory of Bangladesh. It had been a center of Textiles and garments in this region ever since the middle ages - a time when it was world famous for its ethereal muslin - and has continued in that tradition as the happening place for Knitwear. A busy area, availability of skilled artisans, and a range of other facilities and possibilities render it the ideal ground for Divine Group. D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 1 1

  12. Since its inception, Divine Group has never stopped growing - in quality, quantity, capacity and everything in between. Its production has branched out into nine fledged factories at four locations - Chandra in Gazipur, Chowgasa in Jessore, Mirpur in Dhaka and near EPZ in Savar. Divine Group at present has a daily production capacity of over 20 tons of knitted fabric, 25 tons of dyed fabric, 30 tons of finished fabric, 10 tons of yarn dyeing and 60,000 pieces of complete Garments per day. In the way of becoming a massive success story, Divine Group became one of the few garment houses in Bangladesh that implemented Oeko-Tex mark certificate. The Government of Bangladesh, too, recognized its excellence by awarding the status of a Commercially Important Person ( CIP ) to its chief executive, Mr. Hasanuzzaman, the founding Managing Director of Divine Group, since 1997 without any break. Management Meeting D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 1 2

  13. After successful operation in Divine Textile Limited, the owner had decided to start a fully information & technology based along with the social accountability and quality controlled modern readymade composite knit garments industry in large scale. In this connection Mr. Salim Reza had decided in a resolution to start a company in Chandra, Kaliakoir, Gazipur in the year 1997 to manufacture knitwear garments for the international market. Right from inception the policy of the company has been to provide total customer satisfaction by offering quality knitwear in time. To meet the commitments of quality and prompt delivery, Divine Textile Limited Decided to integrate the manufacturing process in a planned manner. Over the years the entire process has been integrated by importing sophisticated machinery from world-renowned manufacturers. Working on new concepts in styling & content of the knitwear is a continuous activity in Divine Textile Limited with an objective to up the quality and the value of merchandise. In 1997, the year in which International business was started; Divine Textile Limited concentrated all its strengths and resources in developing a wide range of knitwear for the international market. D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 1 3

  14. The mission and vision of Divine Textile Ltd. is to manufacture and deliver high quality readymade garments (RMG) to its customers. The core objective is to attain and enhance customer satisfaction by providing on time delivery of desired quality readymade garments and also to increase efficiency of workforce. To attain these objectives, the management of Esquire Knit Composite Ltd. has decided to adopt the following- 1.To increase awareness regarding customers requirements throughout the organization. 2.By providing training to develop efficiency of the employee. 3.To collect customer‘s feedback regularly to know about their conception about their company and to take timely appropriate action. 4.To reduce the percentage of wastage / rejection minimum by 2% per annum‘s implement and monitorISO 9001:2000 quality management system within the organization. D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 1 4

  15. North West East South 4 6 Divine Fabrics Main Gate of 2 5 1 4 3 POND Gate Bridge 13 1 13 10 12 14 7 11 9 8 6 5 4 3 2 1 Main Gate of the Divine Textile D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 1 5

  16. Divine Textile 1.Security office 2.Gas Pump 3.Knitting section Unit – I & Air Compressor Room (1st Floor) + Garment section (2rd -4th Floor) 4.Color Store (1st Floor) + Medical Care (2nd Floor) + Quarter (3rd Floor) 5.Chemical Store 6.Fabric dyeing (Unit – I ) & Tube finishing section + Boiler Room 7.Dyeing Lab + Open Finishing Section 8.Fabric Dyeing Unit – II +Boiler Room 9.Generator 10.Yarn & Hanger Store 11.WTP Plant 12.Dyes & Chemical Store (Under Ground) + Kniting & Fabric Inspection Section & Air Compressor Room (1st Floor) + Garment Section (2nd– 6th Floor) + Garment Printing Section (&th Floor) + Office Room, Mercendiser Section, HR Department (8th Floor) 13.ETP Plant 14.Under Constructed Building Divine Fabrics 1.Under Constructed Building 2.Garment Section (Which Construction is also running) 3.Grey Fabric Store + Printing Section + Knitting Section ( 2nd Floor) 4.ETP & WTP Plant 5.Fabric Dyeing & Open Finishing Section & Dyes, Chemical Store (1st Floor) + Dyeing & QC Lab (2nd Floor) 6.Yarn Dyeing + Yarn Dyeing Lab + Dyes & Chemical Store + Generator D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 1 6

  17. D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 1 7

  18. Knitting section AGM PM Store In charge Supervisor Knitting Master Fitter man Fitter man Operator Operator D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 1 8

  19. Dyeing & Finishing Section GM DGM PM Batch Incharge Finishing Incharge Lab Incharge SPO PO Sewing man Lab Sewing man Technician APO Squeeze Operator Turning m/c Operator Q.C. Supervisor Technician Dryer Operator Helper Helper Sr. Operator Astt. Operator Operator Compactor Operator Helper D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 1 9

  20. Department Manpower Knitting 300 Dyeing & Finishing, Lab & QC Yarn Fabric 309 405 Garments 3325 Power, Boiler, Utility & Maintenance 173 Inventory 15 Administration 54 Security 135 Others 590 Total 5306 Divine Group can produce wide range of products and they deals with some renowned buyers from Europe and USA market some of those are with whom they worked and those whom they are still working. Main buyers name of the company are given below- Target Australia Carrefour Lindex Charles Vogele Calvin Klien TCHIBO H & M ( Hennes & Mauritz) D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 2 0

  21. D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 2 1

  22. Raw Material Raw material is a unique substance in any production oriented textile industry. It plays a vital role in continuous production and for high quality fabric. Types of Raw Materials: 1. Yarn 2. Grey Fabric 3. Dyes 4. Chemical Raw Materials Sources and Costs: 1. Yarn: RATE (Tk. / KG) PARTY NAME YARN CATEGORY RATE $ (KG) QUANTITY (KGS) Shameem Spinning 20s/1 CVC 2.70 158 400.00 Shameem Spinning 30s/1 CVC 2.80 163 500.00 Padma Textile Mills 30s/1 CVC 3.00 175 3628.80 Square Textile Mills 24s/1 Comb 2.95 172 850.00 Square Textile Mills 12s/1 Card 2.05 120 500.00 Square Textile Mills 10s/1 Card 1.65 96 1850.00 Prime Composite Mills 32s/1 Comb 2.95 172 2550.00 Pacific Textile Mills ltd. 20s/1 Card 2.58 151 2000.00 Luksme Textile Mills ltd. 26s/1 Card 2.62 153 2000.00 Mosharaf Textile Mills ltd. 30s/1 Card 2.62 153 3250.00 Prime Composite Mills 32S/1 Comb 2.95 172 22500.00 D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 2 2

  23. PHP Textile Mills ltd. 24S/1 Comb 3.02 176 10000.00 Badsha Textile Mills ltd. 34S/1 Comb 3.25 190 20000.00 Shamsuddin Spinning 24S/1 Comb 3.00 175 6700.00 Shamsuddin Spinning 26S/1 Comb 3.00 175 4350.00 Tara Textile Mills ltd. 20S/1 Comb 3.00 175 1500.00 Israq Textile Mills ltd. 30s/1 Card 2.55 149 661.84 Shamsuddin Spinning 30s/1 Comb 3.05 178 1150.00 Shamsuddin Spinning 26s/1 Comb 3.00 175 1800.00 Prime Composite mills 20s/1 Card 2.40 140 1400.00 Prime Composite mills 24s/1 Comb 2.85 166 1900.00 Prime Composite mills 26s/1 Card 2.82 165 650.00 Prime Composite mills 30s/1 Card 2.82 165 350.00 Hanif Spinning Mills 28s/1 Comb 3.05 178 3800.00 Square Textile Mills 26s/1 Comb 2.95 172 500.00 Square Textile Mills 24s/1 Card 2.50 146 500.00 Square Textile Mills 10s/1 Card 1.65 96 600.00 Shameem Spinning 30s/1 CVC 2.80 163 1600.00 Square Textile Mills 30s/1 Comb 3.00 175 1000.00 2. DIFFERENT YARN AND COUNT FOR KNITTING: SL/No Yarn Type Composition Yarn Count Remark 10s, 12s, 16s, 20s, 20/2, 22s, 24s, 26s,28s, 30, 32s, 34s, 01 Carded Yarn 100% Cotton D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 2 3

  24. 20s, 22s, 24s, 26s, 28s, 30s, 32s, 34s, 36s, 40s, 50s, 60s. 02 Combed Yarn 100% Cotton 03 G/M (Viscose %) 1%, 2%, 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 30%, 40% 04 Spun Yarn 100% Polyester 36D, 70D, 72D, 75D, Polyester + Cotton 05 PC 24s, 26s, 28s,30s, 32s, 34s, Cotton + Polyester 06 CVC 24s, 26s, 28s, 30s, 34s, 36s, 40s Cotton 50% + Polyester 50% 07 C/M 26s, 28s, 30s, 08 Lycra Synthetic 20D, 40D, 70D, 3. Grey Fabrics: Following types of grey fabrics are dyed- Single jersey Double jersey Single jersey with lycra Interlock Single Lacoste Double Lacoste Rib Lycra rib 1 x 1 rib & others Collar & cuff Polyester fabrics Single Pique Double Pique Terry Fleece Fleece Sources: The required grey fabric is produce in the industry. D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 2 4

  25. 4. Chemicals: Chemicals Rate per kg 01. Soda ash light 13 02. Caustic Soda 30 03. Common salt 7 04. Glauber Salt 9 05. H2O2 28 06. Acetic Acid 12 07. Oxalic Acid 44 08. Bleaching Powder 22 09. Hydrose 48 10. Leuphore BMB 520 11. Uvtex BHT 309 12. Uvtex BHV 289 13. Uvtex BAM 310 14. Syno White 4BK 340 15. Uvtex BFE 919 16. Albatex FFC 344 17. CHTE nt. K50 249 18. Invadine Lun 136 19. Feloson NOF 174 20. Invadine DA 180 21. Invatex CS 74 22. Cibacel DBC 107 23. Sarbid LDR 150 D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 2 5

  26. 24. Mcropan DPE 126 25. Cibapon R 150 26. Ctobalance NSR 189 27. Rucozen RES 118 28. Tinofix FRd 150 29. Lily XXL powder 40 30. Rewan Acp 145 31. Cibatex ECO 150 32. Invatex CRA 200 33. Heptole EMG 114 34. Cibafluide C 89 35. Biovin 109 181 36. Tinozym 44L 569 37. Beizym ULBD 347 38. Invatex PC 97 39. Invatex AC 117 40. Catalar BF 324 5. Dyes: Dyes Rate per kg 01. Solazol Black sp GRI 300 02. Reactofix Red ME4BL 262 03. Cottofix Red ME4BL 262 04. Reactofix Orange ME2RL 294 D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 2 6

  27. 05. Reactofix N.ME2GL 354 06. Reactive Yellow H4GL 500 07. Reactive Deep Black N 200 08. Cottofix Black B 141 09. Reactive Blue R(SP) 950 10. Remazol Red RR 1080 11. Remazol Yellow RR 746 12. Remazol Blue RR 908 13. Remazol Blue BB NEW 2280 14. Remazol T. Blue G 344 15. Remazol B Yellow 3GL 1167 16. Remazol Red RGD 725 17. Cibacron Red FN2BL 1488 18. Cibacron Red FB 918 19. Cibacron Red FN3G 1018 20. Cibacron Red WB 542 21. Cibacron Blue FNR 1488 22. Cibacron Blue FGFN 1540 23. Cibacron Navy WB 323 24. Drimarin Yellow CL2RL 510 25. Drimarin Red CL5B 494 26. Drimarin Violet K2RL 1600 27. Drimarin Navy CLB 743 28. Drimarin Blue CT2R 1647 29. Bezaktrive Yellow S3R 516 D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 2 7

  28. 30. Bezaktrive Yellow SLF 975 31. Bezaktrive Yellow V GL 1321 32. Diss Yellow F5GL 400 33. Diss Red BF 600 34. Diss Blue FRL 1100 35. Diss Navy 2GL 300 36. Diss Black EXNSF 300 37. Terasil Black WNS 300 38. Terasil Red FB 600 39. Terasil Red WFS 600 40. Terasil Red W4BS 600 Remarks: The Divine Composite Knitting Ind. Ltd uses best quality raw materials. It produces fabrics from best quality yarn. They uses the best quality dyes like REMAZOL, REACTRON, REACTIVE, TERACIL etc. During the time of using dyestuff they give importance upon the quality of dyes than the price of the dyes and chemicals. D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 2 8

  29. D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 2 9

  30. PROCESS DEFINITION Knitting is the interlocking or intermeshing of one or more yarns through a series of loops. The length wise columns of stitches, corresponding to the warp in woven cloth, are called WALES; the cross wise rows of stitches, corresponding to the filling in woven cloth, are called COURSES, FILLING KNITS (WEFT KNITS) are those fabrics in which the courses are composed of a single strand of yarn, while warp knits are those in which the Wales are composed of single strand of yarn. GAUGE corresponds to the yarn in a woven fabric, and is defined as the number of needles of yarns in half inches of cloth. The higher the gauge, the more compact and finer is the cloth. Lay-Out of Knitting Section Window Window Window Window Window Self Self Rib m/c Rib m/c Rib m/c Rib m/c M/c Room Table box aid Table S/J m/c Rib m/c Table Checking Entrance Emergency Exit Stair S/J m/c S/J m/c S/J m/c S/J m/c Air Compressor m/c Room v F.F. Stair Cylinder S/J m/c S/J m/c S/J m/c S/J m/c S/J m/c Window Window Window Window Window D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 3 0

  31. Machine Description of Knitting Section: Prodn /Shift(Kg) M/C S/L M/C Dia M/C Gauge M/C Model No. Of Feeder No. Of Needle M/C Spec Brand Origin 1 30” Rib-18 Int-24 24 XR2B/CE 60 1692 Rib/Inter lock S/J PAI LUNG TAIWAN 2 28” KS3B- W/A/CE KS3B- W/A/CE KS3B- W/A/CE 84 2112 PAI LUNG TAIWAN 3 28” 24 84 2112 S/J PAI LUNG TAIWAN 4 32” 24 96 2400 S/J PAI LUNG TAIWAN Process flow chart of knitting: Sample fabric Design analysis Machine selection Setting the machine for the specific design Yarn in cone form Feeding the yarn cone in the creel Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positive feeding arrangement and tension devices Knitting D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 3 1

  32. Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting Inspection Numbering Image of Knitting Machine in Divine Textile Ltd. Fig: PAI LUNG Knitting Machine Fig: FUKAHARA Knitting Machine D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 3 2

  33. Fig: Mayer & Cieknitting machine Fig: Image of Dust Removal Fan of Knitting M/c D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 3 3

  34. Fig: Image of VDQ Pulley of Knitting M/c Fig: Image of Positive Feeder of Knitting M/c D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 3 4

  35. Fig: Image of Yarn Feeder Guide & Needle Action With Yarn of Knitting M/c Fig: Image of Cam Box With Cam of Knitting M/c Fig: Image of Cam setting to the Cylinder D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 3 5

  36. Fig: Image of Take down & Cloth Roller Fig: Image of Knitting M/c’s Meter Sequence of yarn feeding: Creel Pipe line Wheel Yarn sensor Yarn guide Feeder Needle D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 3 6

  37. Parts of knitting Machines: Creel: Creel is used to place the cone of yarn. Feeder: Feeder is used to feed the yarn to make a fabric. Tensioning device: Tensioning device is used to give proper tension to the yarn. VDQ pulley: VDQ pulley is used to control the GSM by controlling the stitch length. Guide: Guide is used to guide the yarn. Sensor: Sensor is used to seen & the machine stops when any problem occurs. Spreader: Spreader is used to spread the knitted fabric before take up roller. Take up roller: Take up roller is used to take up the fabric. Fixation feeder: These types of feeder are used in Electrical Auto Striper Knitting Machine to feed the yarn at specific finger. Rethom: These devise are used in Electrical Auto Striper Knitting machine. Terms of Knitting: Course: Horizontal row of loops produced by adjacent needles in knitting cycle is called the course of the fabric. A course is a predominantly horizontal raw of needle loops produced by adjacent needles during the same knitting cycle called course. (Loop length * No of loop). D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 3 7

  38. Wales: Vertical column of loops produced by same needle in knitting cycle is called the Wales of the fabric. A wale is a predominantly vertical column of intermeshed needle loops generally produced by the same needle knitting cycles. i.e. The number of vertical columns of loop of knitted fabrics is called wale. Face loop: If the legs of new loop is passes over the old loop is called face loop. Back loop: If the legs of new loop is passes under the old loop is called face loop. Stitch density: The term stitch density is frequently used in knitting instead of a linear measurement of courses or Wales; it is the total number of needles loops in a square area measurement such as a square inch or three square centimeters. It is expressed as, Course per inch × Wales per inch. Stitch length: Length of one loop in the course direction express in mm. Number of needle: Machine diameter × Machine gauge × 3.1416. GSM: The weight of one square meter of fabric express in gram is known as GSM. Needle gauge: The needle gauge of a knitting machine is a measure expressed the no. of needle per unit of the needle bed or needle bar. As for example: 1.In case of circular weft knitting machine & Tricot warp knitting machine. [Gauge, N= Number of needle per inch.] 2.In case of Raschel warp knitting machine. [Gauge, N= Number of needle per two inch.] D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 3 8

  39. Needle: There are three types of needle- 1.Bearded needle 2.Compound needle 3.Latch needle- One butt needle. Two butt needle. Three butt needle. Four butt needle. The most widely used needle is latch needle. Fig: Main parts of latch needle Cam: Cam is called the specific path of the needles to produce a specific type of fabric. D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 3 9

  40. There are three types of cam used in circular knitting machine: 1.Knit Cam. 2.Tuck Cam. 3.Miss Cam. Knit Cam: It moves the needle upward enough to clear the old loop and receive the new yarn. Tuck Cam: It moves the needle upward not enough to clear. The old loop but receive the new yarn. Miss cam: It does not move the needle upward. The needles neither clear the old loop nor receive the new yarn. D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 4 0

  41. Sinker: It is a thin metal plate with an individual or collective operation approximately at right angles at the hook side between adjacent needles. Function of sinker: In circular knitting m/c sinker helps to form the loop by holding down the yarn Loop forming sequence of latch needle: D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 4 1

  42. Latch opening: The needle goes upward and the sinker comes in action to hold down the loop. Then the old loop press down the latch and it gets open. Yarn receiving: The needle is continuous moving upward enough to receive the new yarn. The old loop remains on the open latch that is called tucking on the latch position. Clearing: The needle goes to its ultimate height to clear the old loop and the new yarn still within the reach of the needle. Landing: According to the path of cam, the needle starts moving downward. Being pushed by the old loop the latch gets closed and the new yarn is entrapped within the closed hook. Knock off: The needle continues moving downward. When it reaches at the down position, the old loop slides off from the back of the latch over the tip of the needle.This old loop then taken by the take up roller hangs from the new loop. End products of Circular Knitting Machine: Single Jersey M/C: S/J Plain Single Lacoste Double Lacoste Single pique Double pique Mini jacquard Terry Interlock M/C: Interlock pique Eyelet fabric Mash fabric D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 4 2

  43. Honeycomb fabric Face/Back rib Rib M/C: 1*1 Rib fabric 2*2 Rib fabric Separation fabric Honeycomb End products of Flat Bed Knitting Machine: Stripping Plain Emboss Considerable points to produce knitted fabrics: When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to production and quality. Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider. Those are as follows- Type of Fabric or design of Fabric. Finished G.S.M. Yarn count Types of yarn (combed or carded) Diameter of the fabric. Stitch length Color depth. D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 4 3

  44. Analysis of the Fabric Sample analysis: After receiving an order first step is analysis the fabric. A sample is analysis as per following system. Design analysis:- Example: D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 4 4

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  47. Relationship between knitting parameter: 1. Stitch length increase with decrease of GSM. 2. If stitch length increase then fabric width increase and Wales per inch decrease. 3. If machine gauge increase then fabric width decrease. 4. If yarn count increase (courser) then fabric width increase. 5. If shrinkage increases then fabric width decrease but GSM and Wales per inch increase. 6. For finer gauge, finer count yarn should use. 7. Gray GSM should be less than finish GSM Production Parameter: Machine Diameter; Machine rpm (revolution per minute); No. of feeds or feeders in use; Machine Gauge; Count of yarn. Methods of increasing production: By the following methods the production of knitted fabric can be increased – D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 4 7

  48. By increasing m/c speed: Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately production will be increased but it has to make sure that excess tension is not imposed on yarn because of this high speed. By increasing the number of feeder: If the number of feeder is increased in the circumference of cylinder, then the number of courses will be increased in one revolution at a time. By using machine of higher gauge: The more the machine gauge, the more the production is. So by using machine of higher gauge production can be increased. By imposing other developments: Using creel-feeding system Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities of yarn damage Using yarn feed control device Using auto lint removal. Production calculation: Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency:    . . ( ) RPM No of Feeder . 3527 No of Needle SL mm   80 Yarn count D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 4 8

  49. Production/shift in meter: min / cm . Course  / No Course   cm   . 60 8 RPM of Feeder Efficiency  100  / Course Fabric width in meter: . cm Total no of wales   / 100 Needles Wales . Total no of used in knitting   / 100 Wales cm Factors that should be change in case of fabric design on quality change: a)Cam setting b)Set of needle c)Size of loop shape If shrinkage increases then fabric width decrease but GSM and Wales per inch increase. For finer gauge, finer count yarn should use. Effect of stitch length on color depth: If the depth of color of the fabric is high loop length should be higher because in case of fabric with higher loop length is less compact. In dark shade dye take up% is high so GSM is adjusted then. Similarly in case of light shade loop length should be relatively smaller Some points are needed to maintain for high quality fabric: Brought good quality yarn Machines are oiled and greased accordingly G.S.M, Stitch length, Tensions are controlled accurately Machines are cleaned every shift and servicing is done after a month Grey Fabrics are checked by 4 point grading system D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 4 9

  50. Changing of GSM: Major control by QAP pulley Minor control by stitch length adjustment Altering the position of the tension pulley changes the G.S.M. of the fabric. If pulley moves towards the positive direction then the G.S.M. is decrease. And in the reverse direction G.S.M will increase Other m/c in Knitting Section: Gray Inspection M/c, Brand : Uzu fabric inspection machine Electric Balance for Fabric Weight. Electric Balance for GSM check. Compressor 2 pieces. Image of fabric Inspection M/c Faults & Remedies of knitting fabric: Hole Mark: Causes: Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks. D I V I N E G R O U P L T D . P a g e | 5 0

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