Your Camera’s Built-in Light Meter

1. Your Camera’sBuilt-in Light Meter Review

2. Light meters are also called exposure meters because they measure the light coming into the camera, and calculate the exposure of that light in order to properly expose the negative. • If you have no light meter, you will have to guess and experiment with lots of film to get the correct exposure. • So when used correctly, Light meters are necessary and helpful to a photographer. They can assist you in choosing the correct f/stop and shutter speed, so that you get the right exposure for the amount of light entering the camera.

3. CENTER Weighted PARTIAL weighted Spot Meter In order to accurately expose a greater range of subject lighting and reflectance combinations, most cameras feature several metering options.  Each option works by assigning a weighting to different light regions; those with a higher weighting are considered more reliable, and thus contribute more to the final exposure calculation. Center Weighted are the most common systems in older SLR cameras because they average most of the entire scene when you are metering (approx.75%). However, most of the weight is centered around the center of the viewfinder Partial meters cover about 15% Spot meters cover roughly 5% Types of light metering systems

4. MATRIX Meters • Most traditional meters found in older SLR cameras are now replaced by matrix metering systems found in newer film and digital cameras. • Matrix meters average the light from several points in the view finder. These points often light up or flash red when you meter a subject. • Some matrix meters allow you to partially turn off some of these exposure sensors so that you can partially meter certain areas only.

5. The built in light meter has a sensor cell that measures the reflected light. When light hits the sensor, a current moves a needle (or led light) up or down to show the photographer if the light is too strong or too dim for the proper exposure.

6. How to meter your subject 1. Point at the subject you are looking at in the view finder. Find an area closest to 18% grey in your composition. 2. Do not point at an extremely bright area or conversely an extremely dark area . Middle grey values are best, such as the skin color, grey sidewalks, or a medium toned tee shirt. • Press half way down on the shutter release and look inside the camera viewfinder toward the right side of the frame.

7. + 0 _ 4. You will see yellow dots when the meter is working. If not press the shutter release halfway down and hold it until you see the dots. Do not press down all the way or you will actually take the picture. Your goal is to get your light meter to show only one lit up dot centered in the middle of the meter.

8. + 0 _ Over and Under exposure If you see several yellow dots lit up toward the plus (+) sign then your allowing too much light to enter the camera and your film will be over exposed. + On the other hand, If you see several yellow dots lit up toward the minus (-) sign then you are not allowing enough light to enter the camera and your film will be under exposed. 0 _

9. Camera Setting • Before going out to take a picture, you should always make sure that your camera shutter speed is set to at least 1/60 of a second. Remember: When hand holding a camera, if you go below a 1/60” you need a tripod. • Then check the ASA /ISO setting for the type of film you have loaded in the camera. This should show up automatically and be seen in the LED screen at the top of your camera. For example- If you have 400ASA film loaded in your camera, a 400 number will appear in the screen. • Older manual cameras need to manually set the ASA. This is usually found on the top of the shutter speed dial. Make sure your ASA number dial is set correctly if the camera requires you to manually set it otherwise your light meter reading will be incorrect.

10. Loading Film • Watch closely at in-class demonstration