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Special Problems

Special Problems. Haircolor and corrective coloring. Special Problems. Each service is unique and should be preceded by a complete client consultation. Strand tests should be used to ensure more satisfactory results However, occasionally challenges do occur in haircolor.

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Special Problems

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  1. Special Problems Haircolor and corrective coloring

  2. Special Problems • Each service is unique and should be preceded by a complete client consultation. • Strand tests should be used to ensure more satisfactory results • However, occasionally challenges do occur in haircolor. • Let’s take a look at a few you might encounter

  3. Corrective coloring • Gray hair: challenges & solutions • Gray hair can turn orange if lightener is not processed long enough • When using the N series add gold to the formula • Yellow discoloration causes • Smoking • Medication • Sun exposure • Some styling aids • Lighteners & tint removers will help remove yellow discoloration • Undesired yellow can often be overpowered by the artificial pigments deposited by violet-based colors of an equal or darker level than the yellow

  4. Corrective coloring • Formulating for gray hair • Level 9 or lighter may not give complete coverage of gray • Lighter shades have a small percentage of artificial pigment • Level 6,7,or 8 can be used to create pastel & blonde tones • For 80% to 100% natural gray, the blonde range is generally more flattering than a darker shade • Warm or cool tones may be chosen based on the client’s skin tone, eye color, & personal preference • When coloring salt & pepper hair to darker, color on color will make a darker color • Use a shade lighter than the naturally dark hair

  5. Semi-permanent/demi-permanent color formulation for gray % of Gray Formulation 90% - 100% desired level 70% - 90% equal parts desired & 1 level lighter 50% - 70% 1 level lighter than desired level 30% - 50 equal parts 1 level lighter & 2 levels lighter Corrective coloring

  6. Permanent color formulation for gray hair % of Gray hair Formulation 90% - 100% desired level 70% - 90% 2 parts desired level & 1 part lighter level 50% - 70% equal parts desired & lighter level 30% - 50% 2 parts lighter level & 1 part desired level 10% - 30% 1 level lighter Corrective coloring

  7. Corrective coloring Other considerations when formulating for gray hair • Client personality • Personal preferences • Amount & location of gray hair • If the majority of the client’s gray hair is located in the front, that section may be 80% gray or unpigmented while the remainder of the head may be only 30% unpigmented

  8. Presoftening • Gray hair can be highly resistance & required presoftening to allow proper penetration of color • This is a double-application service • It is applied, processed & removed • Then tint is applied

  9. Presoftening • Mix product according to manufacturer’s directions • Apply w/ brush or bottle in most resistant areas first • Process at room temperature for 5 to 20 minutes • Wipe color gently w/ cloth or paper towel to remove • Apply desired level & tone of color to achieve desired results • Follow established procedures for color application

  10. Rules for Effective Color Correction • DO NOT PANIC • Establish the true problem • Establish the cause of problem • Establish a suitable remedy • Take one step at a time • Never guarantee exact results • Always strand test for accuracy

  11. Damaged Hair Characteristics • Rough texture • Overporous condition • Brittle & dry to touch • Susceptible to breakage • No elasticity • Becomes spongy & matted when wet • Color fades or absorbs too rapidly

  12. Damaged Hair Treatments • Use penetrating conditioner • Purpose is to deposit protein, oils & moisture-rich ingredients • Normalize pH w/ a finishing rinse • This is done after chemical services to restore cuticle’s protective capacity • If hair is unresponsive after conditioning treatments, postpone further chemical services • Schedule client for between-service conditioning • Recommend retail products for home maintenance

  13. Fillers • Specialized preparations designed to help equalize porosity & deposit base color in one application • Two types • Conditioner fillers • Used to recondition damaged, overly porous hair • Can be applied in separate procedure or immediately prior to color application • Color fillers • May be demipermanent color used when there is doubt as to even color results

  14. Color Filler Advantages • Deposits color to faded ends • Helps hair hold color • Prevents streaking & dull appearance • Prevents off-color results • Produces more uniform, natural-looking color in a tint • Produces more uniform color when doing a tint back

  15. Selecting correct color filler • Select to replace missing primary color in the formulation • All three primaries ( red, blue & yellow ) must be present for natural-looking hair color • May be applied directly to hair or mixed with tint and applied to damaged ends

  16. Fading Reds • Fading is common with color-treated red hair • Use lower volume of hydrogen peroxide • Prelighten before tint application • This is useful when warmer or brighter ( red-orange or gold ) reds are desired on darker natural levels • Retouching w/ red-based tint may require two formulas • 1st formula for the new growth is to create the correct amount of lift & that may be too much lift for the mid-shaft and ends • 2nd formula w/ deposit only hair color product may be applied mid-shaft to ends • STRAND TESTING WILL AID IN ACHIEVING CORRECT RESULTS

  17. Brassiness / unwanted tones • Analyze brassiness first • Are the brassy tones red yellow, orange? • Locate that particular shade on the color wheel & use the complementary color to neutralize it • This can be done w/ temporary rinses, soap caps during retouches, fillers, & semi permanent or demi permanent color

  18. Tint removal Sometimes there is enough buildup of color on the hair that removal of all or part of it may be necessary to achieve the desired color • Professional products may contain ingredients to diffuses pigment, both natural & artificial • They are sometimes mixed w/ hydrogen peroxide • Some are mixed w/ distilled water when milder products are needed • Always follow individual manufacture’s direction. • Never leave client unattended during any chemical service

  19. Tint back to natural • Porosity must be evened out to achieve color correction • Created warmth to prevent drab, unnatural-looking color • Demipermanent, deposit-only color is a great choice • Soap cap • This is a combination of equal parts of prepared tint and shampoo • It is applied like regular shampoo • Used in conjunction w/ tint back to natural if tint does not exactly match natural color • Will break line of demarcation • Patch test must be used 24 hrs. prior to service • If negative, proceed • Recommend salon retail products for home use

  20. Summary • Consultation & strands test results are important to you and the client for professional haircoloring for quality results. • In corrective hair color it’s important to remember such factors as porosity, foundation color, location of unpigmented hair, condition of hair & desired results

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