Chapter 15 Scalp Care, Shampooing, and Conditioning

Chapter 15Scalp Care, Shampooing, and Conditioning

“Ability is what you’re capable of doing. Motivation determines what you do. Attitude determines how well you do it.”– Lou Holtz

Objectives Explain the two most important requirements for scalp care. Describe the benefits of scalp massage. Know how to treat scalp and hair that are dry, oily, or dandruff ridden. Explain the role of hair brushing to a healthy scalp.

Discuss the uses and benefits of the various types of shampoo. Discuss the uses and benefits of the various types of conditioner. Demonstrate the appropriate draping for a basic shampoo and draping for a chemical service. Demonstrate the Three-Part Procedure and explain why it is useful. Objectives (continued)

Scalp Care and Massage The two basic requirements for a healthy scalp are cleanliness and stimulation. Treatments should be given with a continuous, even motion that stimulates scalp and relaxes client.

Scalp Treatments Given before shampoo Given during shampoo Relaxation or treatment: only difference is which products used Contraindications: medical conditions that may prohibit the service

Normal Hair and Scalp Treatment Purpose: to maintain scalp and hair in a clean and healthy condition Perform treatment only after full hair and scalp examination.

Dry Hair and Scalp Treatment Used if natural oil is deficient Treatment products: contain moisturizing and emollient ingredients Avoid strong soaps, greasy preparations, lotions with high alcohol content. Use a scalp steamer.

Oily Hair and Scalp Treatment Cause: overactive sebaceous glands Purpose: to flush out excess sebum through gentle pressing or squeezing

Antidandruff Treatment Cause: a fungus called malassezia Purpose: to suppress the growth of malassezia and loosen scalp scales

Brushing the Hair Correct brushing stimulates the blood circulation of the scalp; helps remove dust, dirt, and hair-spray buildup; and gives added shine.

Hair-Brushing Exceptions Avoid before chemical service Avoid if scalp is irritated Avoid before haircolor procedures

Hairbrushes Natural bristles: most highly recommended to clean and add luster to the hair Nylon bristles: shiny, smooth, and more suitable for hairstyling

Scalp Analysis Dry, dehydrated hair Thinning of the hair Excessive hair in sink Dry, tight scalp Oily scalp Abnormal flaking on scalp Open wounds or scalp irritations Scalp disorders or disease Tick or lice infestation

Shampoo Selection As a professional, you must become skilled at selecting shampoos that support the health of the hair, whether the hair is natural, color-treated, fine and limp, or coarse and wiry. Product knowledge is critical (read labels).

Selection Considerations Hair type: dry, oily, normal, chemically treated Hair condition: overprocessed, chemically treated, damaged by harsh products or improper care, exposure to elements Home maintenance pH-balanced shampoos

Potential Hydrogen (pH) The small p represents a quantity. The capital H represents the hydrogen ion. The amount of hydrogen in a solution is measured on a logarithmic scale ranging from 1 to 14.

Acid: 0 to 6.9 pH Neutral: 7.0 pH Alkaline: 7.1 to 14 pH pH-balanced shampoos: 4.5 to 5.5 pH Potential Hydrogen (pH) (continued)

The Chemistry of Water Purification Sedimentation Filtration Chlorine added Boiling Distillation Soft water Hard water

The Chemistry of Shampoos (continued) Water Surfactant Molecule (surface active agent) – Hydrophilic end

– Lipophilic end The Chemistry of Shampoos (continued)

Types of Shampoos pH-balanced Conditioning Medicated Clarifying Balancing Dry or powder Color-enhancing For hairpieces and wigs

A Great Shampoo Experience Massage for client preference. Adjust water temperature for client choice. Don’t wet client’s face. Double-check nape area. Do not drench towel around neck. Blot hair, not face. Give relaxation massage.

Shampooing and Retailing Use the shampoo time to better establish your professional relationship with the client and promote quality products for at-home use. During the shampoo give clients information about what you are doing and why.

Understanding Conditioners Deposit protein and moisturizer Restore strength and give body Protect against breakage Types Rinse-out Treatment or repair Leave-in

Formulation Silicone and moisture-binding humectants Emollients Synthetic polymers Proteins

Other Conditioning Agents Spray-on thermal protectors Scalp conditioners Medicated scalp lotions Scalp astringent lotions

Deep-Conditioning Treatments Also known as masks or conditioning packs Mixtures of concentrated protein in a heavy cream base of a moisturizer Penetrate the cuticle layer Used when an equal degree of moisturizing and protein is required

Draping Client must be properly draped for each service. Shampoo (wet) draping: two terry towels used, one under cape and one over; replaced with neck strip and cape Chemical-service draping: two terry towels used, one under cape and one over, which remain during service

Three-Part Procedure Pre-service: preparation Service: practical service on client Post-service: caring for client after service and clean-up

Practical Class Pre-Service Procedure Post-Service Procedure Normal Hair and Scalp Treatment Dry Hair and Scalp Treatment Oily Hair and Scalp Treatment Antidandruff Treatment

Brushing the Hair Draping for a Shampoo Draping for a Chemical Service Basic Shampoo and Conditioning Scalp Massage Practical Class (continued)

Summary and Review What are the two most important requirements for scalp care? How should scalp and hair that are dry, oily, or with dandruff be treated? What are the benefits of scalp massage?

Why is hair brushing important for maintaining a healthy scalp and hair? What shampoo is appropriate for use on dandruff? On product buildup? On damaged hair? What is the action of conditioner on hair? Summary and Review (continued)

Congratulations! You have completed one unit of study toward course completion.

Chapter 15 Scalp Care, Shampooing, and Conditioning