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The RITE Group is a multi-stakeholder initiative dedicated to managing textile chemicals and reducing the environmental impact of the textile industry. Focus areas include legislation, mainstream and cutting-edge initiatives, and the role of brands and governments. Visit www.ritegroup.org to learn more.
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Planet Textiles Managing Textile Chemicals A Multi-stakeholder, Global Challenge Phil Patterson Managing Director – Colour Connections Textile Consultancy Chairman – The RITE Group
World’s First Independent, Industry Wide Environmental Initiative Legislation/Government, NGO’s, Media, Academia, Mainstream and Cutting Edge Initiatives www.ritegroup.org
What’s Out There? • Great Dyehouses • OK Dyehouses • Terrible Dyehouses
What’s Out There? • Great Brands • OK Brands • Brands that don’t care
What’s Out There? • Great Chemical Manufacturers • OK Chemical Manufacturers • Terrible Chemical Manufacturers
What’s Out There? • Great Governments • OK Governments • Governments who won’t impose restrictions on their industry
Awful brands.... under the not-so-watchful eye of...............
Where do we need to focus? The top end of the industry? The bottom end of the industry?
Recent Campaign Agenda’s • Greenpeace Dirty Laundry / Detox • Danish media • Make the best better • Criticise the good for not being good enough
Imagine it works.......... • Adidas – PERFECT • PUMA – PERFECT • Nike – PERFECT • H+M – PERFECT • IC Company – PERFECT • Bestseller - PERFECT • Where does it get us?
You don’t have to be Einstein....... • Top a bit better • Bottom – business as usual
Lets get real • TOP DOWN will improve things but not solve the major problems
Lets get real • Calls for ‘zero’ are ridiculous • IT DOESN’T EXIST anymore
Let’s Get REAL • Most high profile chemicals are already the focus of brand controls • Reducing limits will not change the big picture
Let’s get REAL • Tighter brand standards should not be the priority • Policing of existing ones would make major difference
Let’s get real – Greenpeace • Weak chemical evidence • Attacking brands that have done more than any others • Selecting a country that is making significant progress on environmental issues • Enough focus on:- • Worker safety? • Untreated effluent? • Water, energy?
But......let’s get real • Dyehouse effluent IS the right issue
But......let’s get real • Managing chemical inputs is the right approach • Reducing POP’s CMR’s etc • Worker safety • Consumer safety • Environment
But........let’s get real • Brands have to have full transparency / traceability and take ownership of supply base impacts
What works best? • There’s only one winner
The Way Forward • Yes – let’s try and get the best to become better • Let’s not convince ourselves that top down ALONE will solve the problems
Bottom up • Requires hard work and action • Laws • Policing • Brand bravery to prioritise compliance over margin • Investor patience to look to long term
Message to NGO’s and Media • We need discussion not dictatorship • The industry needs to improve • There are some IN the industry that want it to improve • Balance principles with pragmatism • Aim for improvements not perfection
What are the priorities? • Column inches, warm feelings, egos ? • Retribution for historical ‘offenders’ • Improving the environment?
www.ritegroup.org Reducing the impact of textiles on the environment