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FASHION II Mid-term REVIEW

FASHION II Mid-term REVIEW. Flat-lock hem: Sewn by machine Often used on knits garments, such as sweatshirts or pants Covers the raw edge and hems all in one step. What is a flat-fell seam?. A seam and seam finish all in one Begin with wrong sides of fabric together

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FASHION II Mid-term REVIEW

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  1. FASHION II Mid-term REVIEW

  2. Flat-lock hem: • Sewn by machine • Often used on knits garments, such as sweatshirts or pants • Covers the raw edge and hems all in one step

  3. What is a flat-fell seam? • A seam and seam finish all in one • Begin with wrong sides of fabric together • Often used on jeans • Best used on straight seams

  4. Piped Seam • Piping shows on right side of fabric. • Piping is decorative • Piping can be bought ready-made or you can make it • Sew piping to right side of 1 piece of fabric, then put the other piece of fabric with right sides together • Sew at 5/8 inch

  5. Bound Edge • Is a seam finish • Uses bias tape • Can be sewn on both sides by machine or one side by machine and the other side sewn by hand

  6. Before cutting out your pattern pieces • Measure yourself and the pattern pieces to determine on which size lines to cut • 2. Wash your fabric if you want to wash the garment after it is completed • 3. Check to make sure all pattern pieces are laid out correctly, especially if any pieces need to be on the fold

  7. Blind-stitched hem • Sewn by machine • Requires fabric to be folded • Should use thread that matches fabric, so that it does not show on right side of garment

  8. Edge-stitched hem • Are sewn by machine • Can be done at any distance from bottom edge • Can sew 1 or more lines of stitching • Serge or double fold raw edge before stitching

  9. Types of Sleeves • Set-in – sleeve is a separate piece • Encircles armhole • Most difficult to sew! • Kimono – bodice and sleeve is all in one piece • Seam runs under arm and down side of garment • Another seam runs across shoulder and down top of arm • Very easy to sew! • Raglan – has angled seams • From under the arm towards the neck • Seam in the back and front • Very easy to sew!

  10. Set-in Sleeve • Mark the center of the cap (top) • Ease-stitch • at 5/8” and 3/8” • Set stitch length on 4 • Leave thread ends to pull • Pin in sleeve, matching notches and seams, with right sides together • Equally distribute the ease • Sew at 5/8” • Serge, trimming off excess seam allowance to 3/8”

  11. Facings • Finish a raw edge • Around neck, armhole, waist • Types: • Extended – attached to pattern piece and is just folded back • Shaped - separate piece that is sewed on • Bias – bias strip of fabric is sewed on

  12. Interfacing • Reinforces an area • Found under buttonholes, in collars, cuffs waistbands • Woven, knit, non-woven • Fusible (iron on) or Sew-in

  13. An example of a hand-stitched hem • Slant-stitched hem

  14. What does it mean to “grade” fabric? • To trim layers to staggered widths, to reduce bulk. • Should be done on straight and curved seams. • Inside curves should also be clipped. • Outside curves should also be notched. • Trim corners diagonally.

  15. Types of Collars • Flat – lies flat against the garment • Also called “shaped” • Can be any shape (square, rounded) • “Peter Pan” collar is an example • Standing – stands up from neck edge - Mandarin or Nehru • Rolled – stands up slightly and then forms a roll around the neck • A shirt collar is an example

  16. - Bodice – Top of garment- Ease – Little extra (room/fabric) Patterns should be cut a little bit bigger than your exact measurements - Gathers – (ruffles) fuller than ease

  17. Lining • Can be used instead of a seam finish to cover raw edges • Is attached to the facing of a jacket or coat

  18. Lapel • The folded back portion of the front of a coat or jacket that is usually a continuation of the collar • Can be pointed, rounded, or any shape

  19. Under-stitching • A row of stitches • Sewn close to the seam line • Through the facing and seam allowances • Prevents the facing from rolling to the outside of the garment

  20. Nap • Fabric has a print that all pattern pieces must be cut in the same direction (ex: trees are upright) • Fabric, such as velvet or corduroy, has a “pile” raised threads. Can feel “smooth” or “rough” as you rub your hand up or down. One direction looks darker and the other direction looks lighter.

  21. Stay-stitching • Prevents fabric from stretching • Is sewn on a single layer of fabric • Is sewn ½ inch from raw edge • Do not need to back-stitch

  22. Pattern pieces to be placed with the printed side down will appear shaded on the guide sheet

  23. Machine Functions Select certain stitches Width of stitch To get a mirror image of stitch Reverse/Back-stitch STOP - Used to finish a stitch Length of stitch

  24. Study…GOOD LUCK!!!

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