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A PRACTICAL WAY TO INTRODUCE A WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY ETHCIAL TRADE SYSTEM .

A PRACTICAL WAY TO INTRODUCE A WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY ETHCIAL TRADE SYSTEM. Andrew Cody & Dr Michael Hopkins Rapaport Fair Trade Conference. Labour issues Environmental issues Who receives the returns Treatments. Human rights Youth Wages & Conditions Safety conditions

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A PRACTICAL WAY TO INTRODUCE A WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY ETHCIAL TRADE SYSTEM .

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  1. A PRACTICAL WAY TO INTRODUCE A WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY ETHCIAL TRADE SYSTEM. Andrew Cody & Dr Michael Hopkins Rapaport Fair Trade Conference

  2. Labour issues • Environmental issues • Who receives the returns • Treatments • Human rights • Youth • Wages & Conditions • Safety conditions • Chemical pollution • Landscape scarring • Trees • Wildlife • Political • Terrorists • Money Laundering • Smuggling • Disclosure • Safety issues

  3. Retailer Wholesale & Distribution Hundreds of Countries with a myriad of cultures and standards. CONSUMER

  4. ? What makes a mining operation Ethical? Jewellery Supply Chain First Tier Large Scale Miners-Small Scale Miners Labour issues Treatments Environmental issues Who receives the returns • Human Rights • Youth • Wages & Conditions • Safety considerations • Community Benefits • Community displacements • Chemical pollution • Landscape scarring • Trees • Wildlife • Political? • Terrorists? • Smuggling • Money laundering • Disclosure • Safety issues-irradiation • Permancy of treatment • Environmental impact

  5. Gold Claims around the world

  6. Metal Refining Process

  7. Global Diamond Deposits

  8. Top 39 Gemstone Supplier Countries • Afghanistan & Tajikistan • Argentina • Australia • Bolivia • Brazil • Cambodia • Canada • China • Colombia • Congo • Dominican Republic • Ethiopia & Somalia • Guatemala • Honduras • India • Iran • Kenya • Laos • Madagascar • Malawi • Mexico • Mozambique • Myanmar • Namibia • Nigeria • Pakistan • Peru • Russia • South Africa • Sri Lanka • Tanzania • Thailand • Turkey • Uruguay • USA • Vietnam • Zambia

  9. Pearl Farm Pearl Harvest

  10. Ethical Trade Issues Facing First Tier - Mining • Labour issues • Environmental issues • Who receives the returns • Treatments • Human rights • Youth • Wages & Conditions • Safety conditions • Displacement of communities • Chemical pollution • Landscape scarring • Trees • Wildlife • Political • Terrorists • Money Laundering • Smuggling • Disclosure • Safety issues

  11. Human rights • Youth • Wages & Conditions • Safety conditions • Displacement of communities

  12. Child Labour in Mining • Human rights • Youth • Wages & Conditions • Safety conditions • Displacement of communities

  13. Human rights • Youth • Wages & Conditions • Safety conditions • Displacement of communities

  14. Human rights • Youth • Wages & Conditions • Safety conditions • Displacement of communities

  15. Human rights • Youth • Wages & Conditions • Safety conditions • Displacement of communities

  16. Chemical pollution • Landscape scarring • Trees • Wildlife

  17. Environmental Impacts • Chemical pollution • Landscape scarring • Trees • Wildlife

  18. Chemical pollution • Landscape scarring • Trees • Wildlife

  19. Political • Terrorists • Money Laundering • Smuggling

  20. Political • Terrorists • Money Laundering • Smuggling

  21. Political • Terrorists • Money Laundering • Smuggling

  22. Political • Terrorists • Money Laundering • Smuggling

  23. Disclosure • Safety issues

  24. 203 Sovereign States Different Cultures Different Standards Different Rules

  25. Other Problems Associated with Implementing Ethical Trade Each of the previously mentioned issues will vary according to : • Different Products- Gemstones & Metals • Different Supplier Countries • Different Cultures • Different Economic Structures • Different Labour Standards

  26. Large miners will be easier to regulate

  27. What about the thousands of small miners?

  28. I can’t see this man being regulated easily!

  29. Manufacturing chain 2nd Tier • Environment • Treatments • Safety Issues • Labour Conditions* • Chemicals • Treatment disclosures* • Accurate Descriptions • Full Disclosure • Harmonisation • Disclosure • Safety

  30. Third & Fourth Tiers Third Tier Fourth Tier • Integrity-Deal only with Ethically Trading miners & manufacturers • Guarantees • Full Disclosure of treatments • Integrity • Honesty • Buys from a source he believes is ethical • Guarantees • Discloses Treatments

  31. Responsible Jewellery Council Members • Mining • AngloGold Ashanti • Arslanian Freres NV • Bonas & Co. Ltd • Dalumi Diamonds • Diarough N.V. • Dimexon Diamonds • HRA Investments Ltd • I.Hennig & Co. Ltd • Lazare Kaplan International Inc. • Overseas Dimaonds NV / Isee2 • Rosy Blue N.V. • Rothschild Diamonds Ltd • Sima Diamond NV • Steinmetz • Suashish Diamonds • Trade Associations • The American Gem Society • British Jewellers Association • Jewellers of America • Manufacturing Jewelers and Suppliers of America Inc. • National Mining Association • The National Association of Goldsmiths • World Gold Council • Service Industries(inc. financial institutions) • Int. Diamond and Jewellery Group ABN-AMRO • The Assay Office

  32. Responsible Jewellery Council Members • Jewellery Manufacturing or Wholesale • DN Gems Corp • Gabriel & Co • Jaeger-LeCoultre • J.B. Jewelry • Leo Schachter Diamonds LLC • Libman & Company Ltd • Kristall Inc. • Regal Imports Ltd • Robertso Coin • Stubbs and Co • Gold Refining Hedging or Trading • Argor-Heraeus SA • Metalor Tchnologies SA • PAMP SA • PX Precinox SA • Valcambi SA • Jewellery Manufacturing or Wholesale • AR & AR Jewellery Inc • Aurafin LLC • Baume & Mercier • Boite D’Or Gioielli S.R.L. • Carrera y Carrera • C&J Jewelry • Cendres+M&eacute:taux SA • Christian Bernard • Colormasters Gem Corp • Cristofol Paris

  33. Responsible Jewellery Council Members • JCPenney • Jewellery By Varouj Inc • Larter and Sons • Leber Jeweler Inc. • Lux Bond & Green • Marissa D. Harvey • Montblanc • Moet Hennessy – Louis Vuitton • Nicholas James • Piaget • Precious Metals • Reis-Nichols Inc. • Signet Group plc. • Simms II Jewelers • Tiffany & Co. • Transparence S. A. • Van Cleef & Arpels • WhiteFlash.com • Zale Corporation • Retail • Argos Ltd • Ben Bridge Jeweler • Borsheims • Boucheron • Brown Goldsmiths • Bulgari S.p.A • Cartier • Chanel Horlogerie/Joaillerie • Day’s Jewellery • Element Jewellery • Gomez & Molina Joyeros • Goodmans Jewelers Inc • Hamilton Jewellers • Harriet Kelsall Jewellery Design Ltd • Harry Winston • H. Cunningham Fine Jewelry Inc. • Helzberg Diamonds • Ice cool.co.uk Current membership is approximately 90 organisations.

  34. But there are 100’s of thousands of businesses involved…

  35. ? Are these people trading ethically?

  36. Retailer Wholesale & Distribution Rules & Regulations are extremely complex. Rules & Regulations are complex. Rules & Regulations are moderate and rules for Ethical Trade already exist. Rules & Regulations are simple and rules for Ethical Trade already exist. WANTS ETHICAL TRADE! CONSUMER

  37. ? Are they ethical traders?

  38. 1200 Members If one third of members agreed to join CIBJO’s Ethical Trade System, then it would raise $200,000 revenue annually if the cost of joining was $500 US per business.

  39. Spain Sweden Switzerland Thailand Turkey UAE United Kingdom United States France Germany Greece Hong Kong India Israel Italy Japan Mexico Netherlands New Zealand Norway Portugal Russia Saudi Arabia Singapore South Africa South Korea Austria Argentina Australia Brazil Belgium Canada China Egypt Finland

  40. The local organisation can administer the running of the Ethical Trade system within its country or region. CIBJO-world jewllery confederation, can oversee the local approved organisations and also arrange third party verification through responsible auditors.

  41. Codes of Ethics contain rules by which members must abide. JAA Code of Ethics Examples of Industry Codes of Ethics at work • International Colored Gemstone Association • Thai Gem & Jewellery Traders Association • Gemological Institute of America • Gemmological Association of Australia • Jewellers Association of Australia • Japan Jewellery Association • American Gem Trade Association • The Gemmological Association of Great Britain • British Jewellers Association • ETC TGJTA Code of Ethics Colored Diamond Association Code Of Ethics AGTA Code of Ethics ICA Code of Ethics Japan Jewellers Association Code of Ethics

  42. Don’t set the bar too high initially.

  43. ? World Jewellery Confederation ETHICAL TRADER RETAILER CAT 3 2009 World Jewellery Confederation ETHICAL TRADER MINER CAT 3 2009 World JewelleryConfederation ETHICAL TRADER MANUFACTURER CAT 3 2009

  44. World JewelleryConfederation ETHICAL TRADER MANUFACTURER CAT 3 2009 Entry or Benchmark level

  45. World Jewellery Confederation ETHICAL TRADER MINER CAT 3 2009 Awarded to members whose standards are high.

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