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Chinese Textiles/Embroidery. By. Hyebin Uhm. content. What is Textiles/Embroidery? History How is it made? Who makes it? Influence in China Purpose of Textile/Embroidery Different Ethnic Groups. What is textiles/embroidery?.
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Chinese Textiles/Embroidery By. Hyebin Uhm
content • What is Textiles/Embroidery? • History • How is it made? • Who makes it? • Influence in China • Purpose of Textile/Embroidery • Different Ethnic Groups
What is textiles/embroidery? • theart of workingraised and ornamental designs in threads of silk, cotton, gold, silver, or other material, upon any wovenfabric,leather, paper, etc.,withaneedle.
History • Embroidery is a brilliant pearl in Chinese art. From the magnificent Dragon Robe worn by Emperors to the popular embroidery seen in today's fashions, it adds so much pleasure to our life and our culture. The oldest embroidered product in China on record dates from the Shang Dynasty(16th – 11th century B.C). Embroidery in this period symbolized social status. It was not until later on, as the national economy developed, that embroidered products entered the lives of the common people.
History • Through progress over the Zhou Dynasty, the Han Dynasty witnessed a leap in embroidery in both technique and art style. Court embroidery was set and specialization came into being. The patterns covered a larger range, from sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons, and phoenix to tiger, flower and grass, clouds and geometric patterns. Auspicious words were also fashionable. Both historic records and products of the time proved this. According to the records, all the women in the capital of Qi (today's Linzi, Shandong) were able to embroider.
History • Chinese embroidery is still practiced in many sections of the country. Other countries have a reputation for producing beautiful embroidery but few can match the precision, art and charm of the work produced in China prior to the modern period.
How is it made? • 1.Clip your fingernails and rub lotion on your hands. Chinese silk embroidery thread is very fine and will catch on almost anything, including chapped hands. • 2.Draw your design onto your canvas or obtain canvas with a design pre-printed onto it. Because you will be working on this project for a long time, make sure you use some sort of permanent ink for your design. If you like, you can also color the canvas to indicate which color of embroidery thread to use as you go along. Many pre-printed canvases are colored. • 3.If your canvas is wrinkled, iron it with low heat. Insert your canvas into an embroidery hoop, and make sure the canvas isn't puckered anywhere. • 4.Separate your first color of silk embroidery thread into four strands. Expert Chinese silk embroiderers separate their thread into as many as 16 strands to give their finished product a very refined look. But if you are just beginning, settle for four strands. Thread your needle with one of the four strands. It doesn't matter which color you begin with or which part of the picture you start on.
How is it made? • 5. Poke your needle up through the canvas from the bottom, and pull the embroidery thread until you have a tail of about 2 inches left on the back side. Hold the tail against the back of the canvas while you send the needle back down, leaving a nice, long satin stitch on the front of the canvas. Send the needle back up again, right next to your first stitch. Make sure the tail catches in this stitch. Continue making long satin stitches, making sure the thread's tail is getting caught each time for the first five or six stitches. Using this method, you don't have to make any knots in the thread that could cause bumps in the canvas.
How is it made? • 6. Continue to make nice long satin stitches, filling in the sections of your outline on the canvas until your thread is nearly gone. To end your thread, turn the embroidery hoop over so you can see the back side. Slide your needle under several stitches, perpendicular to them. Pull the thread taut, but don't pull so tightly that you deform your stitches. Send the needle back the other way underneath a few stitches, and clip the thread very close to the canvas. Continue using this process until you have filled in the entire picture. • 7. Iron the finished embroidered picture with a very low iron setting to get rid of wrinkles in the canvas caused by the embroidery hoop. Mount the picture in a frame, and hang it on the wall. • Go to this Link: http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XNDM3MTMwMDE2.html
Embroidery Artists Chinese Literature records the names of few famous embroidery artists. Among these are Kuan Fu-jen, the wife of the painter Chao Meng-fu and the ladies of the Ku family in Shanghai such as Ku Shou-ch’ien who worked their artistry in Ming times. The painters Tung ch’i-ch’ang and Wen Cheng-ming and more recently Sh’en Chou who died in 1910 are all considered great embroiders.
Embroidery Artists Another notable figure in the development of embroidery was the wife of Sun Quan, King of Wu. She was also the first female painter recorded in Chinese painting history. She was good at calligraphy, painting and embroidery. Sun Quan wanted a map of China and she drew one for him and even presented him embroidered map of China. She was reputed as the Master of Weaving, Needle and Silk. Portraits also appeared on embroidered things during this time.
Embroidery Artists Wei Taohua, horse-tail embroidery craftswoman of Shui ethnic group, picks horsetail hairs in Sandu, southwest China's Guizhou Province, December 12, 2012. Horsetail embroidery is a traditional embroidery handicraft that uses horsetail hairs as raw materials and has been passed down by Shui women for generations. It was listed in China's first group of intangible cultural heritages in 2006.
Influence in china • They were exposed to embroidery for such a long time that nearly everybody got adapted to it. People saw and practiced it everyday so naturally they became good at it. The royal family and aristocrats had everything covered with embroidery-even their rooms were decorated with so many embroidered ornaments that the walls could not be seen! Embroidered products flooded their homes, from mattresses to beddings, from clothes worn in life time to burial articles. Even nowadays there are still embroidery in our lives in China. E.g. Traditional clothing, Qi pao.
Purpose of textile/embroidery • At the beginning of time, embroidery was a method for people to show-off or express their wealth or strength in China. However later on, embroidery became common that it was divided to two functions, for daily life usage and art for art’s sake. Some example’s would be robes, fashion and etc.
Different Styles • Su Xiu (苏绣) — Suzhou embroidery is crafted in areas around Suzhou, Jiangsu Province, having a history dating back 2,000 years. It is famous for its beautiful patterns, elegant colors, variety of stitches, and consummate craftsmanship. Its stitching is meticulously skillful, coloration subtle and refined. Suzhou artists are able to use more than 40 needlework and a 1,000 different types of threads to make embroidery, typically with nature and environment themes such as flowers, birds, animals and even gardens on a piece of cloth. A rare subset is Su double-sided embroidery which requires ultimate skill and artistry. The front and back of the piece may have different designs, but the ends are not knotted but woven in so the back can't be distinguished.
Different Styles • Xiang Xiu (湘绣) — Hunan embroidery comes from areas aroundChangsha, Hunan Province. It is distinct for its starkly elegant black, white and gray coloration. Its emphasis is on contrasts of light and shade that highlight the pattern texture to give a three-dimensional effect. Xiang embroidery composition combines void and solid imagery, utilizing empty space in the same way as Chinese ink and wash paintings. • YueXiu/GuangXiu (粤绣/广秀) — Guangdong embroidery is crafted inChaozhou, Guangdong Province. It is composed of intricate but symmetrical patterns, vibrant colors, varied stitches and a defined weave. Its use of primary colors, light and shade are reminiscent of western paintings. • ShuXiu (蜀绣) — Sichuan embroidery comes from areas around Chengdu, Sichuan Province. It is oldest known embroidery style in Chinese embroidery history. Its raw materials are satin and colored silk, its craftsmanship painstaking and refined. The emphasis is on even stitching, delicate coloration, and local flavor. Sichuan embroidery is used to decorate quilt covers, pillowcases, garments, shoes and painted screens.
Different Styles • Su Xiu (苏绣) Embroidery
Different Styles • Xiang Xiu (湘绣) Embroidery
Different Styles • YueXiu/GuangXiu (粤绣/广秀) Embroidery
Different Styles • ShuXiu (蜀绣)Embroidery
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