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Scissors’ Anatomy. Ratio of Transmission of Torque. Leverage. Are your scissors in good condition?. It seems cut but actuary damage them. Not sharp and also loose tension. Perfect condition Healthy Hair. The Edge. Convex Edge ( very thin & sharp )
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Ratio of Transmission of Torque Leverage
Are your scissors in good condition? It seems cut but actuary damage them Not sharp and also loose tension Perfect condition Healthy Hair
The Edge • Convex Edge ( very thin & sharp ) Concave = hollow along the edge. Bowed = bowing each other. Twisted = twisted like a propeller. All three of these components of scissor are important.
Convex Blade"Convex blades" with extremely sharp-angled edges are expertly sharpened by craftsmen grinding technique, leaving each blade with a combination of smoothness, precision and sharpness. • Beveled BladeA bevel edge is harsher when cutting hair and probably won't be enjoyed as much. Most stylist prefer the convex edgebecause it is smoother.
Character of angle of edge 18 – 30 degree Very sharp and smooth Sharpness does not last too long. Edge “R” directly influence to cutting. “R” is radius of edge line. 40 - 60 degree Cut feeling is heavy and firm. Sharpness lasts longer. Edge “R” will not directly influence to cutting.
Hone line • Sharp edge would rub themselves dull on the edge. The hone line is the thin flat line that you see on the hollow side of the edge. It runs from the tip of the scissor to the back. This gives the scissor a smooth and quiet run.
Bowed • Strong bowed is good for slow movement cut • Strong bowed is suitable for hard hair as well as cutting more hair in one section. Bunch of hair • Easy bowed is good for faster movement cut. • Easy bowed doesn’t make enough contact pressure. • Clearance of 0.005mm (approx)
Point of Action • Since both blades are bowing to each other, point of action must be exactly the same point on their shear line. • When this balance is changed, a point of action will be changed. Deep bowed blade makes both shear lines damaged.
Shear Line • Straight line: You may feel harder and feel like cut off. Cut result in a straight cut line. Ratio of cut is higher. • Yanagi-bacan help to create sensitive cut line. Shear line is almost same as a part of 800mm radius. • Sasa-bais suitable for slide cut and it creates softer cut line. Wider blade and shear line almost same as a part of 600mm radius.
Convex Shear Line is not straight. Most shapes are a part of 800 millimeter radius. Some bevel edge has complex edge “R”
Peak • Peak of Convex Edge has Elasticity according to its shape. It creates contact pressure. • Sword Edge has a center of balance on the middle of blade. It transmits hand power to the edge more powerful than the other blades. Lateral pressure Pressure to the side direction
Short Scissors Advantage • Good for stroke and slide cut. • The weight is suitable for those who require stability. • Light scissors are usually preferred. Disadvantage • Cutting Feels more direct than long one. • Slide the hair toward the tip of the scissors easily.
Long Scissors Advantage • Good for straight cut line. • Weight would be absorbed a shock of cut. (stability). Disadvantage • Angle of Bite is smaller • Contact Pressure (Power of Cut) is going to decrease by progressing at top. • Lateral pressure may cause of not cut. Pressure to the side direction
Why going to dull? • If you keep using them for 3 to 4 month without sharpening, radius of edge line are increased or become serrated. • Dropping, cutting more than scissors capability, operating with incorrect tension and other bad affect such as water, dirt, chemical, and etc make scissors unbalanced. Corrosion
Never complete a cut if the section of hair gives you resistance. This is the most important rule in caring for shears, and it is also the most common way stylists damage their shears. If you struggle while cutting hair, the shears are too light for the task, and forces to the blades can severely damage edges. In this case, cut smaller sections instead.
Destroyed Hone Line with wheel type of sharpening machine. You should consider purchasing a new pair. (Up) Hardened chemical makes greatly reduce % of Cut. This is Shame.
Wipe from both side 3 – 5 times each. “Burr” ( fine dust of metal ), cuticle, hair oil and more stuff are mixed up and sticking on the edge of the blade.
