Process sequence of weaving

1. Process sequence of Process sequence of weaving weaving

2. Flow chart of weaving: Flow chart of weaving: Yarn from spinning department Yarn from spinning department Cone winding Cone winding warping warping sizing sizing Pirn winding Pirn winding Pinning Pinning Drawing-in Drawing-in Reaching-in Reaching-in Denting Denting Tying-in Tying-in Weaving loom Weaving loom Grey inspection Grey inspection Folding Folding

3. Yarn from spinning department Yarn from spinning department

4. Doubling & Twisting Doubling & Twisting

5. Cone Winding Cone Winding  Winding is a process of Winding is a process of transferring yarns from transferring yarns from ring bobbins, hanks, ring bobbins, hanks, cones etc into a cones etc into a convenient form of convenient form of packages containing packages containing considerably long length considerably long length of yarn. of yarn.  The main purpose of The main purpose of winding or packaging is to winding or packaging is to form a single yarn form a single yarn package suitable for the package suitable for the next operation. next operation.

6. Creeling Creeling

7. Creel Creel

8. Creeling Creeling

9. Warping Warping Warping Warping is aimed at preparing the is aimed at preparing the weaver’s beam to be set up on the weaver’s beam to be set up on the weaving machine. Warping carries out weaving machine. Warping carries out following operations : following operations :  Creation, out of a limited number of Creation, out of a limited number of warp threads (creel load), of a warp warp threads (creel load), of a warp composed of any number of threads composed of any number of threads with the desired length. with the desired length.  Arrangement of above-mentioned Arrangement of above-mentioned threads according to the desired threads according to the desired sequence. sequence. The industrial warping process can be The industrial warping process can be carried out according to two different carried out according to two different technologies: technologies: Sectional warping (conical drum or Sectional warping (conical drum or indirect warping). indirect warping). Beam warping or direct warping Beam warping or direct warping (preparatory beam warping). (preparatory beam warping).  

10. Sectional warping Sectional warping • • Sectional warping is Sectional warping is used for short runs, used for short runs, especially for fancy especially for fancy patterned fabrics. patterned fabrics.

11. Sectional warping Sectional warping • • In this case, sections of In this case, sections of the warp which may the warp which may contain up to 1,000 ends contain up to 1,000 ends are first wound onto a are first wound onto a drum tapered with a given drum tapered with a given cone angle. cone angle. • •So cross wound sections So cross wound sections are combined on the are combined on the drum, and thus each drum, and thus each layer of warp contains the layer of warp contains the same number of ends on same number of ends on the drum. the drum.

14. Sectional warping Sectional warping Then the warp Then the warp threads threads altogether are altogether are transferred onto transferred onto a weaver’s beam a weaver’s beam by unwinding the by unwinding the drum. drum.

16. Direct/ High speed/ Beam warping Direct/ High speed/ Beam warping  Beam warping is used for Beam warping is used for long runs of grey fabrics. long runs of grey fabrics.  As an intermediate stage As an intermediate stage warper’s beams which warper’s beams which may contain up to 1,000 may contain up to 1,000 ends are produced. ends are produced. • • Then the threads of 6-12 Then the threads of 6-12 warper’s beam are warper’s beam are combined at the slashing combined at the slashing (sizing) stage and wound (sizing) stage and wound onto a weaver’s beam onto a weaver’s beam (loom beam). (loom beam).

17. Direct warping Direct warping

18. Sizing Sizing  Sizing is the application Sizing is the application of adhesive coating in of adhesive coating in the warp threads before the warp threads before weaving. weaving.  The warp yarns can The warp yarns can withstand the complex withstand the complex stresses to which they stresses to which they are subjected in the are subjected in the weaving machine. weaving machine.

19. Sizing Sizing  The size is usually a The size is usually a starch paste containing starch paste containing softening and other softening and other ingredients. ingredients. • • Starch sizes are usually Starch sizes are usually not satisfactory for not satisfactory for synthetic fiber threads synthetic fiber threads and have to be replaced and have to be replaced by special sizes (often by special sizes (often containing synthetic containing synthetic polymers) which will polymers) which will adhere better to the adhere better to the threads. threads.

20. Loom preparation Loom preparation

21. Before the weaver’s beam is mounted on the loom, each Before the weaver’s beam is mounted on the loom, each end is threaded through a heald eye and the reed; it also end is threaded through a heald eye and the reed; it also supports a drop wire. supports a drop wire.  To pass the warp To pass the warp threads through the threads through the hole of the drop wire hole of the drop wire is known as is known as pinning  If a single warp If a single warp breaks drop wire will breaks drop wire will drop. As a result drop. As a result Machine will stop Machine will stop instantly to avoid end instantly to avoid end missing. missing. pinning. .

22. Pinning and drawing Pinning and drawing

23. Drafting Drafting  Drafting Drafting is known as is known as the selection of heald the selection of heald frames or harnesses frames or harnesses for individual warp for individual warp threads according to threads according to the design. the design.  Drawing in: Drawing in: To pull the warp threads the warp threads through the heald eye through the heald eye of the heald wire. of the heald wire. To pull

25. Healds and frame Healds and frame

26. Threading of heddles Threading of heddles

27. Denting Denting Drawing threads through dent with hook  What is Reed? What is Reed? The reed is a comb-like The reed is a comb-like structure consisting of structure consisting of regularly spaced wires. The regularly spaced wires. The word dent is commonly used to word dent is commonly used to describe the space between describe the space between two reed wires. two reed wires.  Denting: Denting: Denting means Denting means drawing the warp thread drawing the warp thread through the dent as required through the dent as required by reed plan and this by reed plan and this determines more accurately determines more accurately the width of the fabric and the the width of the fabric and the ends per cm. ends per cm.

28. Tying-in Tying-in • • Tying-in is used when a fabric is Tying-in is used when a fabric is being mass produced. being mass produced. • • The tail end of the warp from the The tail end of the warp from the exhausted weaver’s beam is exhausted weaver’s beam is tied to the beginning of the tied to the beginning of the new warp. new warp. • • Therefore, if every end on the Therefore, if every end on the new beam is tied to its new beam is tied to its corresponding end on the old corresponding end on the old beam, the drawing-in process beam, the drawing-in process can be omitted. can be omitted. • • Following the tying-in process, Following the tying-in process, all knots are pulled through the all knots are pulled through the drop wires, heddles and the drop wires, heddles and the reed. The loom is now ready reed. The loom is now ready for operation. for operation.

29. Weaving Weaving

30. Fabric inspection Fabric inspection

31. Folding Folding

32. Baling Baling

33. Delivery Delivery

34. Reference books of weaving Reference books of weaving  Weaving By M.K Talukdar Weaving By M.K Talukdar  Weaving conversion of yarn to fabric. By Weaving conversion of yarn to fabric. By Lord & Mahmood. Lord & Mahmood.  Hand book of cotton weaving. By Mir Hand book of cotton weaving. By Mir Publisher Publisher  Weaving mechanism. By Banerjee Weaving mechanism. By Banerjee  Principle of Weaving. By Robinson Principle of Weaving. By Robinson  Weaving calculation by R Sen Gupta Weaving calculation by R Sen Gupta

35. Basic motions and essential parts of a loom Basic motions and essential parts of a loom

36. Basic motions and essential parts of a loom Basic motions and essential parts of a loom  The warp unwound from the The warp unwound from the weaver’s beam back rest back rest (back bearer) and comes to the (back bearer) and comes to the heald frames (harnesses) , which are responsible for separating the warp sheet (harnesses) , which are responsible for separating the warp sheet for the purpose of shed formation. for the purpose of shed formation.  A A drop wire drop wire signals the loom to stop immediately after a warp end signals the loom to stop immediately after a warp end breaks off. breaks off.  It then passes through the It then passes through the reed reed (swinging frame in front of the heddles), which holds the threads at uniform spacing and is also heddles), which holds the threads at uniform spacing and is also responsible for beating-up the last inserted pick. responsible for beating-up the last inserted pick.  The cloth then passes over the The cloth then passes over the front rest front rest (breast beam), round the take-up roller take-up roller, and is wound onto the , and is wound onto the cloth roller merchandise beam). merchandise beam). weaver’s beam passes round the passes round the heald frames (swinging frame in front of the (breast beam), round the cloth roller (cloth beam or (cloth beam or  In conclusion, the warp from the beam is fed to the weaving zone In conclusion, the warp from the beam is fed to the weaving zone where it is converted into fabric and this fabric is then taken - up on where it is converted into fabric and this fabric is then taken - up on a cloth roll. a cloth roll.

37. Major reference points on a weaving machine Major reference points on a weaving machine  The front of the machine, where the fabric beam is The front of the machine, where the fabric beam is mounted is also called “weaver’s side. mounted is also called “weaver’s side.  The back of the machine, where the warp beam is The back of the machine, where the warp beam is placed is called “warp side ". placed is called “warp side ".  Facing the machine from front, the right of the observer Facing the machine from front, the right of the observer indicates the right side of the weaving machine. This is indicates the right side of the weaving machine. This is the side where the pick is received (receiving side). the side where the pick is received (receiving side).  The left side, where the pick is inserted from, is called The left side, where the pick is inserted from, is called the picking side. the picking side.  The warp yarns are numbered starting from the left side The warp yarns are numbered starting from the left side of the weaving machine. of the weaving machine.  The harness frame numbering starts from the front side The harness frame numbering starts from the front side of the loom. of the loom.

38. Essential Motions of a weaving loom Essential Motions of a weaving loom Primary motions of weaving Primary motions of weaving: In order to interlace warp and weft threads to interlace warp and weft threads to produce a fabric on any type of loom, produce a fabric on any type of loom, three operations are necessary: three operations are necessary: 1. 1. Shedding Shedding 2. 2. Picking or filling or weft insertion Picking or filling or weft insertion 3. 3. Beating up Beating up Secondary motions of weaving Secondary motions of weaving: : 4. Warp let-off 4. Warp let-off 5. Take-up 5. Take-up : In order to

39. Tertiary motions Tertiary motions  Warp protector motion Warp protector motion  Weft Change motion Weft Change motion  Warp stop motion Warp stop motion

40. Primary motions of weaving Primary motions of weaving 1 1. . Shedding: Shedding: separating the warp separating the warp threads into two threads into two layers to form a layers to form a tunnel known as the tunnel known as the shedding. shedding. Shed/ Tunnel Sley Race

41. Picking: Picking: passing the weft thread through passing the weft thread through the shed. the shed. The filling yarn The filling yarn emerges through a emerges through a hole in the shuttle hole in the shuttle as it moves across as it moves across the loom. A single the loom. A single crossing of the crossing of the shuttle from one shuttle from one side of the loom to side of the loom to the other is known the other is known as a pick. as a pick.

42. Shuttle with quill or pirn Shuttle with quill or pirn  The filling yarn is The filling yarn is inserted through the inserted through the shed by a small shed by a small carrier device called a carrier device called a shuttle. The shuttle is shuttle. The shuttle is normally pointed at normally pointed at each end to allow each end to allow passage through the passage through the shed. In a traditional shed. In a traditional shuttle loom, the shuttle loom, the filling yarn is wound filling yarn is wound onto a quill or pirn onto a quill or pirn

43. Beating – up/Battening Beating – up/Battening Pushing the newly inserted Pushing the newly inserted length of weft, known as the length of weft, known as the pick, into the already woven pick, into the already woven fabric at a point known as the fabric at a point known as the fell. fell. Battening Battening: The pressing of filling : The pressing of filling yarn by the reed against the yarn by the reed against the portion of the fabric that has portion of the fabric that has already been formed. already been formed. Conventional shuttle looms Conventional shuttle looms can operate at speeds of about can operate at speeds of about 150 to 160 picks per minute 150 to 160 picks per minute

44. Two additional operations Two additional operations are essential if weaving is to be are essential if weaving is to be continuous: continuous: 4. Warp control (or let 4. Warp control (or let - off): - off): this motion this motion delivers warp to the delivers warp to the weaving area at the weaving area at the required rate and at a required rate and at a suitable constant suitable constant tension by unwinding tension by unwinding it from a weaver’s it from a weaver’s beam. beam.

45. 5. Cloth control (or 5. Cloth control (or take - up): take - up): this motion withdraws motion withdraws fabric from the fabric from the weaving area at the weaving area at the constant rate that will constant rate that will give the required pick give the required pick spacing and then spacing and then winds it onto a roller. winds it onto a roller. this

46. Weft insertion mechanism Weft insertion mechanism  This motion follows This motion follows the shedding motion. the shedding motion.  On conventional On conventional looms the filling yarn looms the filling yarn is inserted by means is inserted by means of a shuttle on of a shuttle on which a pirn is which a pirn is mounted. mounted.  As the shuttle travels As the shuttle travels a length of weft yarn a length of weft yarn is laid down along the is laid down along the path of the shuttle. path of the shuttle.

47. Cone under picking mechanism Cone under picking mechanism

48. Tappet shedding mechanism Tappet shedding mechanism

49. Jacquard weaving machine Jacquard weaving machine

50. Warp let-off mechanism Warp let-off mechanism